Hi there everyone,

i need to swap an F20B bluetop JDM into an Accord of 2000 that has an F20B7 engine SOHC Vtec.
now i have got the engine outside so decided to change the Clutch.

now i'm looking but it is very difficult to get a clutch for the F20B Bluetop engine.

do you guys know where i could find one ?

Thanks guys

 

Just get a clutch kit for an H22. It'll fit; even an F22 & F23 will fit the F20B.

 

don't i get any problem with a to much thick pressure plate different splines and so on ??
or different diameter of clutch disc ??

 

No. I'm using an F22 Exedy stage 1 clutch kit & Fidanza 8lbs flywheel on my JDM F20B T2T4 LSD trans mated to my JDM H22A engine setup.

I've never heard of thick pressure plate and splines are all the same between the F & H series.

 

There is a problem with getting to strong of a setup. The higher the strength of the clutch, the tougher it is on your transmission. There is such a thing as overkill. If this is meant for a stock motor, then just go for a kit that is no higher than a stage 2. A good clutch company classifies their kits by torque. Find the kit that matches the torque you expect out of your motor, and go with that one.

 

i will be using the tranny of the F20B7 SOHC Vtec, cause the F20B JDM came with no tranny, also i was planning to get a stage 3 clutch act kit or an act pp and a F1 6 puck disc.

so what i an understand is that they are all 220 mm, 24 spline ?
and the reason why i was thinking of an stage 3 is that in the near future the engine will be boosted.

so you guys think is an ok clutch to fit ??

Thanks

 

Yes. If the new clutch is for your F20B7, it should fit the F20B DOHC VTEC with no problem. All F & H series are interchangable with the same spline so there should be no fitment issue.

 

Well guys i received some pics from the engine and saw that it is an Automatic F20B version, so i need to change flywheel and also heard about the TB..
but i heard something about the automatic version came with 150HP and the manual version came with 210HP, is that correct ??, also that the ECU is an PCB so it has IMM in it and there is no key, nothing else beside the ECU, so i was planning going OBD1 and chip an ecu map it for the engine but if it i the 150HP version i would prefer buying an manual version of 210HP.

Let me know if it's correct about the differences between the manual and automatic.

Thanks allot guys

 

M/T = 200 hp
A/T = 180 hp (tuned for better mid range)

Same engine just a different tune, maybe the TB and cam are a bit different as well. A chipped and well tuned OBD1 ECU may be able to even the hp out. If your boosting it in the future. Choosing the lesser of the two in it's naturally aspirated state isn't going to hurt you.

What is the cost difference? If the manual is more I would stick with the auto. Specially if your going to be boosting it anyway.

 

I used a stage 2 competition clutch that grabbed well but i only ran 6lbs. Stage 3 is should be alright for you if you are actually going to boost it. I would look into the clutches that bisimoto uses. I think they're called action. He pioneered the true power of the f series and I doubt he would be using clutches that were junk. They are cheaper than ACT too.

 

@ nuss dog : if i take the AT engine can i use an F22 lightweight flywheel with an Stage 3 clutch and it fit right in the F20B7 tranny ??

@ Ghost accord : i am also planning going OBD1, these engine has IAB right ?? als do you have an bin file for Crome for a F20B that i could start using as a base ?

@ Accord raffi i think this engine will me boosting more that 6 psi in a while so for now it's gonna be NA, and maybe later this year it will be boosted and thinking of 10 PSI daily and like 15 for race..

guy Thanks for your help.... when doing the swap i will be posting it on the form...

 

Yes, As long as it is a manual trans

As far as I know the F20B does utilize the intake air bypass system (IAB). If you are looking to use the IAB in conjunction with an OBD1 ECU. There are a few that you can chip and run them on. The P72 has the IAB circuit already and the P28 & P75 only requires the addition/removal of a few things to enable the IAB circuit. You can modify the P75 to have VTEC as well. P75 does not have a knock board ether. That is a bonus if you ask me.

As for .bin files. The only ones that I have that would be close are the F22B* & H22A* If you want to start with an F22B basemap send me a PM with your email and I can send it your way. I can send one with the abilities to enable and/or disabled the knock & IABs.

 

The PCB ECU supports a 3 wire IAC. The F20b utilizes a 3 wire IAC. OBD1 will only support a 2 wire IAC. If decide to run OBD1, youll have to convert to a two wire IAC. Two ways this can be done. Install an IAC adapter plate or swap out the upper intake manifold plenum from an H22.

 

Ghost's got my answer.

 

Sorry to jump in on your action there Nus. I figured where you already answered that question once. You wouldn't want to answer it again.

 

If you dont address the IAC issue on this swap, You will have idle problems.

 

If he disables the IACV in the tune of a chipped ECU and blocks off the ports. He won't have any idle problems at all.

Obsess much?

You posted your information pertaining to fixing the F20B IAC issue only 5 hrs ago. If the OP comes back to read this thread I'm sure he will see your information about that issue.

 

Disabling the IAC is a band-aid. I posted my info if he wants it done right. My swaps never have idle issues. WHY? I do them right!

CHEERS to you!

 

Whatever you say, you da man!

2U2

 

Haha. You're doing just fine. I barely come on anymore anyway so it doesn't matter. Lol. And you know more about these F22 SOHC than me.

 

@ ghostaccord, i have received the mail. Thanks

i have got another question, the accord is from 2000 and it has immobiliser in it, but i will go OBD1 and use a P28 do i need to disconnect anything and also the iacv should be an 2 wire instead of a 3 wire, which 2 wire do i need to use from the harnass ??
also can i disable it in Crome Pro ?

i will be using an obd2b to obd1 conversion harnass so i can run the OBD1 ecu........
one thing i was wondering if i should use the IAB or do you guys say no need to use it ??

Thanks guys

 

I have a question, bought mine already swapped, running MAP on the firewall, any reason I shouldn't cut wires and hook up the one on the throttle body? Setup is OBD1.

 

If there is already one on the throttle body then I would say go for it.

 

well guys, i took out the old engine the F20B7 ( SOHC Vtec) and what i saw was that the dizzy is complete different, the car has an OBD2B harnass and i bought an OBD2B to OBD1 conversion harnass.
i also saw that on the front of the engine near the cranck pully that there is an sensor with 4 wire's.
the dizzy has 4 wire's and the dizzy from the F20B has gor 8 wires..

i went and look up the # on the dizzy's

The one from the F20B7 (SOHC Vtec) : D4T97-03 9Y02A

the one from the F20B (DOHC Vtec) : D02578 P12

can anyone help me out so i could wire the F20B dizzy ??

Thanks in advance