so my car currently has a b16 thats mildy built in it, Iv been feinding for the fat powerband of a h22 lately so I put my car on cl for trade. I ended up finding a guy with a 99 h22a4 with a qsd h2b kit who wants to trade for my b16.


Im trying to make sure I don't get in over my head with a can of worms. Iv been reading every h2b and h22 thread I can find, although it is still pretty hard to find exact specs due to alot of people cluttering things up with miss information.


what are somethings I can do to make the h22a4 a nice healthy street motor? Im thinking about pulling the head before I install the motor and putting in dual v.s. and retainers so I can add some mild cams down the road, when I do this Im also thinking of one plying the head gasket to give it a little compression bump. Im also thinking of doing the poor mans skunk2 i.m. or what ever you wanna call it, by removing the iab's and porting the insides also doing this to try to get back every little bit of hood clearance I can get.



any insight will be greatly appreciated.

 

Plan to have the engine in and out of the car several times depending on your choice and approach to crank pulley clearance.

Start making up you mind on the hood now too. Unless you run a chopped up valve cover, your only options for hood clearance are basically cut a hole in the hood, use a **** load of washers, or both.

With my IAB's removed from my manifold, valve cover clearance was still my biggest issue. What exact "specs" are you looking for anyways? Don't forget your alternator bracket.

As far as making power, take the same approach anyone else would to building an N/A honda engine. There are lots of build threads. I'll be honest though, my stock H22 with my YS1 trans and LSD was a blast to drive in my EF.

 

awesome, thanks for the insight, I know the hood clearance is gonna be a b*tch but I think it will be well worth it, I have a buddy who has a fab shop and I might be able to get him to shorten my valve cover for a reasonable price.


as for power I think it will be fine for a while with the motor pretty much stock with just i/h/e and ported i.m. down the road Ill prob do some stage 1 cams or something.

 

so I pulled my b16 out last night traded it for the h22 today. heres some pics and specs. got a few things I need to figure out too:

-distributor cap is broken so Ill have to get a new one
-motor still has IAB's so I want to remove them
-the harness that came on it was setup for a crx with h2b but the resistor box had been by passed so Im not sure if I need to run one or not, they are obd2 injectors. if any one has insight on this it would be great. I thought all h22's ran resistor boxes.


I also need a good basemap for s300 for a h22 if any one has one I can send you my email if you wouldn't mind sending me one

the motor has kaizen speed balance shaft delete kit, qsd h2b kit with plate, half shaft relocator and driver side engine mount.

also is the firing order on a h22 the same as a B series

 

Firing order is the same. obd2 prelude's used saturated injectors and you do not have to have resistor box. If your using s300 your fine.
92-96 preludes were peak and hold style injectors and that would be the reason for the resistor box. Be prepared to grind/bang on driver side frame rail.

 

just use a STOCK EF si engine harness (exstend in certain places) and get obd1 inj save ur self ALOT headaches and u may need a obd1 dizzy if it is not already, if it is a obd1 dizzy then run a jumper harness to a p13 comp (stock h22a? comp) and call it a day. if that does not cure ur fancy-- avid traction bars, and 100 direct port on 22" slicks runs low 11's (tuned)

 

Did you have to add any on your part for the longblock trade? Because I would do a leak down test on the h22 just to know what kind of condition its in. If the engine is in good condition, that trade favored you greatly, lol.

 

He has a perfectly good harness that already has been converted to mpfi and obd1 with s300. He doesn't need another harness. If the distributor is obd1 then it would simply be like putting the b16 back in, especially if the harness that came with the h22 came out of a mpfi converted/obd1 crx. If the harness came out of an Si crx originally, the shock tower wiring harness connectors will not interchange with your 4 door unless its an EX.

 

already have my converted harness to run as well as a direct port kit I think Im gonna save my money from buying traction bars and buy a welder and build my own.



thanks for reading the car is a dx so Im gonna mod my harness. the h22 has that external coil thing and a obd1 distributor (I believe its obd1 although Im new to h22's) so idk if Im gonna have to mod my harness to fit the plug on the coil pack, I can take pics if needed


my motor was mildly built and I gave him a cable tranny along with my longblock. but yes I def got the better end of the deal. he didn't know a whole lot about honda's and really didn't wanna try to do a h2b swap when it was way out side of his abilitys.

 

O btw the motor is a 96 h22a4. the kid says that there were rumors that the motor was sleeved and bored to 89mm but Ill just have to see by how it runs. if the motor is junk Ill pull it and buy a diff h22 longblock.

 

distributor reads td61u on it which is obd1 although the way its wired is pretty jank so Im prob gonna have to re do it all.

 

H2b is a great swap..

Several things needed to make it work in an EF but overall a great swap. makes great power.

stock motor i ran 12.1 at fontana, H2b in a DX Crx. full interior street driven. Drove it about 45 miles to the track. dropped the exhaust put slicks and ran 12.1.

stock motor with just ebay Megan header..

Get a set of cams/valvetrain. and a nice header (RMF Drag copy) and you will be more than happy with it..

 

good to hear, Im very excited to get it going. def gonna be a whole different car compared to my littledick b16

 

Guaranteed.. Will leave you wondering why you didnt go H sooner...

i've always had great luck with the H motor... Regardless of the trans. H trans. B trans. all of them ran great..

Good luck!

Let me know if you run into any problems or anything... i can offer some online help if needed..

 

thanks. Im re doing my wiring harness to fit the motor alot better as well as just clean it up, the guy who did the swap really sucked at wiring. Ill post updates when I get a little further along Im still waiting on my buddy to bring over a clutch disc because I have one for a 90-91 tranny and Im running a 92-93 gsr tranny now.

I hope your right about the power. I drove a h22 crx and It felt like it had a small block chevy in it, tq every were and a really fat powerband.

should I start to beat the frame rail now or wait to try and test fit the motor first?

 

You are guaranteed going to have to clearance the frame. there is no way it will fit. Also i hope you have a single row pulley already as the stock pulley wont fit. (unless you cut it down to a single row and rebalance)

And REALLY clearance the frame... you want to be able to have enough room to not only clear the pulley but also be able to remove the alt belt when you need to without dropping the whole motor.

 

ok, Im gonna beat the frame rail like a red headed step child. and ya I already have a single row puley this h2b was already running in a crx si and one point in time said the guy I got it from.

 

just found out motor is actually built

pulled cyl #1 spark plug to tdc it for new timing belt and saw a forged piston, I turned the motor over and it apears to have a high top and huge valve releifs. might pull the head to see what all is actually done. to run forged pistons in a h22 doesn't it have to be sleeved? the kid told me it was sleeved to 89mm.

 

yeah sleeved or Mahle pistons. I agree, defiantly pull the head to see what you have.

 

ok so you guys might hate me but I think Im the luckiest sob on the planet. and to think I traded a b16 for this sorry if some of the pics are blurry but I was shaking because I was sooooo stoked
what I know for sure, sleeved (looks like golden eagle I believe) arp head studs, some for of high compression pistons. I need help identifying them as well as if some one can verify what valve train I have as well as if these are stock cams.
holy crap the valves are huge!!!
I wanna clean off the rust on the sleeves (unless I should just leave it) if any one has any ideas. it looks like this motor has been sitting for a while but was never ran.

 

bore measures out to 89mm and stroke appears to be 90mm. Im using a really crappy set of calipers to measure though. intake valves appear to be 36mm? exhausts look like they are about 30mm.

 

You bastard!!

 

Damn u came up. looks like a golden Eagle sleeved block. valvetrain, cams can't tell from the pics, but with everything else you came up...

should run really good.. hope u can run pump gas with that though. if its a 89 bore from the pics they look like 13.1 or so compression. my 12:1's werent that domed.. unless its the angle of the pics. hard to tell from pictures.

 

hehehe ya I know

the pistons aren't super domed I just took some pics to try to capture the dome, If I was to estimate I would say 11.5 to 1 or 12 to 1 cr. regardless it should move out with a good header, cams and intake mani. Im gonna pull the oil pan to see if it has rods (really hope it does) and if it does I have a direct port kit that will be going on it.

 

I would also say 13.1-13.5:1 compression with those pistons. Judging by that second picture, they have a pretty huge dome. I would use a base map to start the car and let it idle while you checked for leaks/etc. But I suggest you trailer the car to a tuner after that. You got so lucky with that trade.