Hello,
I have the 1990 Honda Accord LX, 4AT. My passenger's side CV boot is busted. The grease though dark, but still feel fresh and no dirt in it. I think it's just recently when this happens. The grease is still flowing out slowly from the joint. There's no clicking noise yet when turning.
I am thinking of doing this myself to save some money. But I am thinking of using the Split boot from Autozone. What do you guys think about these boots? Obviously it might last as long as that of the one piece boot.
What's is the best way of cleaning the grease off the joint so I can reapply new grease?

Here's the boot link
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=12-0

I plan on using this red grease, would it be ok?
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=

Since the boot just break, I plan on getting it fix tomorrow. What is the chance that I have to replace the whole axle given that the joint is not clicking yet?

Thanks.

 

Spend 80-90 dollars and get a reman axle. Split boots are junk.

 

Those boots are more of a pain to install than just pulling the axle.
CSKAuto(Kragen/Checkers)/ORLY sells new Cardone axles for ~$80.
I'd recommend ordering up a new axle and be done with it. Those split boots are more for emergency purposes.

 

I found a mechanic that will do it for $90 replaced. I wonder if the axle he gets will last long? Do I need to redo the wheel alignment after the axle change?
I am thinking of do the front wheel bearing too. Is it something that can be done quickly while the axle is off or do you need a press to do it?

Thanks.

 

If you can find out what brand the axle is and if its new or reman'd. The problem with reman'd units is often the old CV cage is ground out by hand to allow larger ball bearings to be installed. This does two things, hand grinding the cage is not accurate and enlarging the windows to fit the larger ball bearings weakens the cages.
If its possible to purchase new half shaft assemblies I highly recommend doing so.
You should not need an alignment after the axle change. Usually just disconnect the BJ and tierod, to allow enough space to pull the axle.
To remove the hub/bearing assembly you can look at the procedure in the Rotor over Hub sticy here and here. If you do go that invasive it may be well worth it to do the ROH conversion. It would make changing out rotors much easier/faster. You would require a press to do the job.

 

For the quoted price, it's definitely re manufactured part. But the dealer wants $285 for the axle.

 

With all of the poor quality remanu axle, should I just change the boot since the joint has not click yet?
I am checking the maintenance record on the previous owner, he mentioned CV boot replacement for $120 @95085 miles but not mentioning which side, most likely the driver's side was changed b/c it's newer than the busted side. Given the previous owner is cheap, would he just spend $120 on the boot replacement? I would think he replaced the whole axle.
The car has only 142k miles on it, so what is the chance of the axle being OEM still? Even if it's OEM, should I just redo the boot or is the joint going with this number of miles on it?
How long would an OEM axle last if you drive carefully?

Thanks.

 

I went the split boot route twice on each axel of my '92...each lasted less than a year before falling apart. My axel was making a clicking/whirring noise driving the interstate for a good 10-20k miles and it never fell apart. Eventually, I moved to MD where split boots apparently don't pass inspection and had to put on reman. axels which worked well for the 30-40k miles I drove it after replacement with no issues. I bought the axels at NAPA and my only complaint is that they rusted more in 1 year than the original axels had rusted in 16-17 years.

Split boot is definitely not worth it, but make sure you get a quality reman if you don't go for new.

And those 10-20k miles before I replaced the axels...I wasn't exactly "careful" with them...I'm not exactly "easy" on my cars and the noise never got terribly bad.

 

What do you guys think of the quality from this site?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...xle%20Assembly

Most are new and they also list the remanuf clearly.

 

I'd get a new one from NAPA. I've had my NAPA axles for more then 20K now and there still going strong. It's $100 for each

 

I was told by many that even the NEW ones that are made in China are worse than the remanu'd ones. The Reman ones brand Cardone, I was told is better and pretty good. Any one had experience with this brand?
Thanks.