Here's the nitty-gritty. I have all my tools lined up and ready to go. I just have one quesiton that I cannot seem to find in all manuals and no Service Tech. will answer for me...So I present to the group.
When supporting the engine from above, is there a factory recommended place to support the motor in the area where the engine mates to the transmission?
I have located the loop on the drive belt side but nothing on the other side.

I have located two threaded holes in which I could insert a bolt and chain around it or my other option is to remove heat sheilds from the exhaust manifold and chain around them. Finally, I have done this with 350's, lifting from the intake manifold.

Your suggestions and comments are greatly welcomed.

 

you shouldn't have to support it. the engine mounts should hold the engine just fine after you pull the trans out. when I pulled the trans out of my 94 accord, all i had to do was support it with a jack, remove the bolts and the trans mount (among other things), then lower it out. You can support the rear of the engine if it makes you feel better, but I don't think you'll have to.

anyone else agree?

 

I have a '00 accord 2.3l 4cyl. automatic, Im pulling the transmission on. It looks like a K-frame setup for the engine/trans I dont have access to a lift to be able to lower the kframe from the car so I'll be doing it essentially in my friends yard.

Is it possible to even pull the engine/transmission assembly through the top? It looks like the AC lines running to the firewall are in the way of pulling the engine/trans through the top. There are the hardlines and I see nowhere to disconnect them at the firewall

Also, SemperFixit.... is it even possible to just pull the transmission with the engine supported in the car as you are trying to do? I thought the whole Kframe assembly would have to come out to be able to get the transmission out.... at least thats how it looks on my 4cly, automatic.

Im just looking for as much info or as many tricks as possible to make this less painful.


Sgraham01, do the 94's have a kframe setup for the engine/trans, if so were you able to pull only the transmission or did you have to pull the engine/trans combo?


Thanks for any help you can give me.

 

For the 6th gen Accords, both 4 and 6 cyl, you have to remove the front part of the subframe. After undoing all but the side engine mount, lower the trans side of the motor/trans assembly, the trans will slide right out.

 

"Also, SemperFixit.... is it even possible to just pull the transmission with the engine supported in the car as you are trying to do? I thought the whole Kframe assembly would have to come out to be able to get the transmission out.... at least thats how it looks on my 4cly, automatic."

J894, My fellow 6th Gen owner, alas we are cursed with the some engineers idea of a "practical joke". Our engines are supported mostly from the bottom. There is a U shaped frame that bolts to the undercarriage. The difference between yours and mine is two cylinders and my transmission is where your engine is and visa versa. The only way out is down, according to the manual (haynes), and everyone who has contacted me so far has said the same thing. A member here (Transguy37) shows pulling an transmission from an Acura of the same era and he drops it right from the bottom, albeit he had a big fancy lift and looks like he did this type of work for a living.
My friend we are doomed to jackstands and transmission lifts. As a note, Harbor Freight has a engine support for the cost of 49.99 (I made my own for about the same price but that one is much nicer than my set-up)
But I am still insearch of the point of support closest to the transmission.

"Im just looking for as much info or as many tricks as possible to make this less painful."

AMEN BROTHER!!!

As far as your AC lines go, you will probably have to have the system discharged and a shop/dealer to remove the engine though the top, going through the bottom will allow you to disconnect the AC pump and set it off to the side with zip ties, at least according to the Haynes book, again I have never performed this type of operation...comments from others?

 

So I assume the subframe is 2 pieces? Also, the way you describe it does the engine swing on the drivers side engine mount like a hinge to be able to get at the trans, no?

When you swing the engine down do you just unbolt the transmission housing from the engine and slide it off? Also is the torque converter attached to a flexplate that just slides on to the input shaft of the transmission or how do I "de-mate" these? Im not fimilar with the way its setup on these cars, althought I will have a friend who does helping..however he has only ever pulled manual transmissions. Im just trying to get as much info as possible.

SemperFixit, I probably wont even try taking it out the top then.
And is this the support you speak of: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

I didnt know it was a 2piece subframe, I thought this was a 1 piece kframe setup that you would need a lift to work on. Working on it in my friends yard would of made it hard to lower a whole kframe setup out from under the car (kinda dont have anything to lift the car off the subframe).

Being as I dont have to take the engine out it should be more doable....

anyone else have any pointers for the main part of this job?

 

I have pulled both the 4 and 6 cyl transmissions from 6th gens. They both come out the same way (except on opposite sides). I did all this in my garage using a couple of jacks and jack stands.

j894, exactly. After you remove all but the engine side mount, the motor/trans will swing down like a door (hinge you mention).

For the torque converter, you have to remove the lower cover and unbolt it from the flex plate. You'll have to turn the crank all the way around to gain access to all the bolts. After that, stick a jack under the oil pan (with a load spreading device, such as a 2x4), and another jack under the trans. Unbolt the trans and slide it off the aligning pins. The engine will rest on the jack, and the trans will settle onto the other jack; or you can lower the trans by hand if you feel like doing more work.

 

Sir 02 Accord, just to clarify about the removing of the transmission and supporting of the engine is that the good ol' stand by 2X4 and bottle jack combo will suffice in place of the "Haynes" recommended above engine support?

And J894, that would be the support that I mentioned, which apparently thanks to 02 Accord, we will be able to get by with the "Shadetree Mechanic" 2X4 and jack to support the underside of the engine.

 

Jack and 2x4 has worked for me both times.

 

"Sgraham01, do the 94's have a kframe setup for the engine/trans, if so were you able to pull only the transmission or did you have to pull the engine/trans combo?"

All i had to do was place a jack under the trans, remove all the accessories on the trans, unbolt the torque converter then the trans from the block and remove the trans mount. slid the trans back a little off the dowels, and dropped it right out. Did not support the engine at all. I let the mounts do that. Did not so much as loosen any subframe. This was on my 94

 

OK, just did this and reinstalled it with a friend. Here is my experience now, maybe it will help someone in the future.

Besides all the normal stuff, draining the coolant, unhooking electrical connectors, etc.
We had to take out the 2nd part of that subframe as mentioned, unhooking it at those arms that go to the control arm, then remove the exhaust manifold and downpipe. Unbolted it at the manifold and right in front of the cat to avoid breaking too any bolts. We had to cut the bolts at the cat flange anyway to get it off, it was so rusted.

After which we pulled the axles, removed the transmission housing bolts and torque converter bolts, unhooked the engine mounts except the drivers side, with an engine hoist and a steel cable we supported the engine to swing it down a bit to be able to slide the transmission off the engine on a jack... as we did that, got covered in transmission fluid and a couple other unknown fluids. But we were able to just slide it out from underneath the car then and do what we needed to do with it ( take it to have rebuilt)

We had a little trouble separating the engine from trans at first,
because there is a hidden 17mm transmission housing bolt (engine to trans), hidden on the back side of the engine next to the rear engine mount under the intake manifold. We were scratching our heads as to why it wouldn't come apart with all the bolts removed but there was one hidden in plain sight under a bunch of oil and grease on the back side of the engine. After that it came right out.

Again, hope this helps someone in the future. We're gonna finish reinstalling it today and hopefully all goes without problem, and everything works.

thanks for the tips everyone

 

I don't see why you'd have to drain the coolant. There is enough flex in the exhaust to let the motor swing down enough for you to get the trans out.

 

****, forgot to mention that in my hastiness, I was replacing the thermostat and water pump also, thats why we did that. (along with the timing belt)

As far as the exhaust, I forgot to mention that also. The exhaust is in the way of the oil pan, and the oil pan was nasty, really rusty looking and leaked so I got a new one. I didnt have time to degrease it, wire wheel it and repaint it in our downtime. It turned out that whoever had it before me at some point had work done to it and there was no gasket even on the oil pan, only a messy line of RTV sealant....and they missed a spot near the drivers side of the motor where it leaked. (there was some sealant there but barely enough to close the gap).

So I guess you could do it without removing the exhaust or draining the coolant, thanks for pointing that out.