so this is my first time swapping out my own motor and pretty much everything is disconnected. the only thing thats holding the motor in place is the 2 side mounts and the axles. the car is on the ground and these damn axle nuts wont budge. I got about a 2ft pipe over my rachet for more torque; needless to say, the motor rocks when i try to loosen the axle nuts.

ANY SUGGESTIONS ON HOW I CAN GET THESE DAMN AXLES OFF???

 

breaker bar and a longer cheater bar. I would not use a ratchet....I have seen them break to pieces

 

yea, i jus broke the 1/2" extention on my ratchet... so what is a "breaker bar?"

 

Like a ratchet that doesn't ratchet.



2 ft. of pipe? I used 8 feet and some mapp gas with a breaker bar. They're a bitch, but you'll get it. Good luck.

Don't use extensions either.. that's hurting more than helping. Your socket should be long enough for just the axle nut..

 

Roger that!!

 

10-4 on not using extensions.

1/2" breaker bar + 6' steel pipe that i got from home depot = me taking axle nuts and crank pulley bolts out whenever i want.


your from newark, eh? shouldn't you be drunk off your *** right now from the portuguese festival?!?!

 

Pop the lower ball joint on the knuckle and you don't even need to remove the axle nut.

 

Get a friend to hold their foot on the brake. Use a torch and heat up the nut and try it. Then spray it with PB Blaster and try it again. Keep heating and cooling and trying.

 

IR 1/2 inch air impact. What?? No air?? Snap On CT6850 cordless impact then!

 

Snap On CT6850 cordless impact then
i use this gun daily at a shop and on the lude
this is a bad *** gun...but it should be for what they cost lol

but try heat like what was said before

 

3 days and these damn axles are jus taunting me, still no progress and im a week from gettin my new motor!!

couldnt get the ball joint to loosen @ blue lude.. maybe not the right tools or the right know how!

i dont have access to a torch, and im bout to give it one more shot with my 2ft breaker bar and my 3ft handle from my racing jack @ 5ten

 

two ways to go about this, depending on whether you want to reuse the axle (second ways) or not (first way).

FIRST, Stick a screwdriver in the fins of the rotor to keep the rotor from moving (hence the axle nut) and go buy a tractor-trailer ratchet set for $20. It has 1, 2, and 3" ratchets (not measly 1/2") that will be able to handle the extreme force you will be exerting. Personally, I broke two 1/2" craftsman ratchets before buying the tractor trailer set- worked with first try. We talked about this on p rel ude po wer .c om recently and it worked great for everyone.

SECOND, remove the upper, lower, and tie rod balljoint nuts, and pull out the whole spindle, axle attached. To do this, you will need to remove the cotter pins that go through each balljoints' bolt and castle nut. Once the cotter pins are out, the front bottom castle nut should come out with a 14-17mm wrench, depending on whether ithe bj is OEM or aftermarket. Then the tie rod arm, 14mm, and the UCA bj is a 14mm as well. the UCA balljoint has a cover near the top of spindle that needs to be removed to access the castle nut, a single 10mm bolt. Once that's all been removed, use a bj fork (looks like a large fork) to pull each bj from each arm, and loosen the axle as you remove the whole spindle. The axle WILL FIT through the strut fork, it'll be close, but it does slide through with a little finesse.

Only use this second method if you plan to reuse the axle and rotor, since they will be impossible to seperate once you remove them attached.