Ok so I have changed the radiator, Changed the hoses, Changed the thermostat for a failsafe one. Changed the motor on my fan now.

And my fan is still not turning on.

Originally My fan was working then when I changed the entire radiator system and the fan stopped working so I changed the radiator fan motor. (Which damaged my new radiator some!!!!!! -_- But only a few dings which only aggravates me but I know shouldn't do anything really)

I have a new relay for the fan "ON IT'S WAY" (Not yet installed, I emphasized on it because it may be misconstrued. Lol) because my with the new motor the fan isn't turning on either. Oh And I just changed the Coolant temperature Switch/sensor just now. Still nothing.

I haven't taken it for a spin past further than my parking lot because simply put I am scared to have the car overheat if the fan doesn't come on.

So other than the sensor/switch, the fan motor, and the relay what else could prevent my fan from turning on? and what can I do to keep it on indefinitely?

Now I keep hearing about being able to have the fan run continuously with the ignition key. But I don't know exactly what everybody is talking about. I know there the thermostat housing is and I know what I am looking at but I don't know this switch thing to make the radiator turn on and remain on with the ignition of the car.

 

The radiator fan switch, called a thermoswitch, is that thing in the thermostat housing with the plug attached to it. You unplug it and unscrew the thermoswitch out of the housing.


Secondly, test the switch by jumping the the connectors in the plug you do this by following a very simple procedure.


1. Turn the ignition position to "on", not the cranking position.

2. Use a small insulated copper wire and jump the connectors in the plug you disconnected from the thermo-switch. If the fan suddenly turns on when you jump the plugs, the switch is bad.

 

But I installed a new switch just yesterday

Ok jumping the connectors that is on the plug in the two sockets that the switch would normally would be hitting right? Got it going to try it right now. Thanks.

 

Did you bleed the cooling system?

 

Ok I just jumped the switch and low and behold the fan cam on with the on ignition.

Now what bothers me is that I put in a new switch in the thermostat just yesterday and the fan wouldn't come on. What could it be?

If by bleeding you mean burped it by turning it on with the radiator cap off yes I did that. And it still the same thing.

 

Proper bleeding may take 20 minutes. What year?

 

Its a 95.

And I bled it for several minutes when I first changed out the cooling system I did it twice on a different occasion.

The first time was for about 15 minutes then after that I did it for about 10 minutes.

Recently when I changed the radiator fan motor I had to remove the upper hose in order to get out the fan to work on it and after I re-installed the fan with the new motor I topped off the radiator fluid and bled it for about 10 minutes till the radiator fluid was stable and no longer moving.

 

The water temperature gauge has to be reading about halfway towards the middle before the fan comes on. Engine is probably not getting warm enough to justify it turning on.

It usually takes forever when the car is sitting to get it to warm up.

If the fan turned on when you jumped the connectors, I don't see the relay being the problem either, and I don't see the thermo-switch being the problem since you bought a new one.

 

Bleeding the cooling system:
(This may take 20-30 minutes)

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below (hint: the bleed bolt is located where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine):

 

I forgot to mention the those extra steps. Yeah I the Had the heater on high. and the first time when I did it for 15 minutes I had the car slightly lifted on the front with a car lift.


I do got to add though. That on my car the diagram for the bleeder bolt it's not on my car.

I mean the socket is there but at the very bottom of the short hole is more aluminum.

I think my car may be a later model or something that did not come with that bleeder bolt because there is no bolt there. I got a screw drive stuck it down and gently hit it with a hammer in case it was something that shouldn't be there and nothing so yeah my bleeder bolt isn't located there.


I want to thank you for your help and your persistence in making sure I bled the radiator out right but I am not having issues with my cooling system.

I am having problems with my radiator fan. But come to think about it I can see how not properly bleeding the system can cause the coolant fan switch/sensor not to work properly.



I do have a question though. I have the sensor jumped with a wire to both ends closing the relay to manually keep the fan on all the time with the key ignition on II.

My question is would that do any damage to anything? Like the radiator fan motor? Should the jump only be a temporary fix?

 

Fan always on is not a good thing to do.
Take the car for a drive 5 min drive, that should get the engine at normal temp, and check to see if fan is turning on (sit idling). Also check to see if your temp sensor is plug.

 

Shawn what would happen if I leave the fan on continuously?

I want to know what exactly would happen if I do.

Because I am in arizona with the summer and average temp of 90-110 degrees out. So I am thinking of leaving it on continuously and then running the proper set up for fall and winter.

If I am risking blowing the fan motor after several thousand miles then it isn't an issue for me and I'll leave it on continuously but if I am looking at some crazy adverse effects then I will run the stock setup.

Thanks for the help guys.