94 Accord EX ( what should i get first? )
94 Accord EX Manual
- Stock Engine F22B VTEC
- Stock header
- APEXi Catback Exhaust
- AEM Cold Air Intake
- Racing Tires ( forgot will update )
- Rims ( forgot will update )
- NGK Spark Plugs ( Platinum )
- NGK Wires
what the decent or high end parts that is speciffically for my car or comes close. List what i should get first and try to list everything that will improve my car performance in anyway.
- Stock Engine F22B VTEC
- Stock header
- APEXi Catback Exhaust
- AEM Cold Air Intake
- Racing Tires ( forgot will update )
- Rims ( forgot will update )
- NGK Spark Plugs ( Platinum )
- NGK Wires
what the decent or high end parts that is speciffically for my car or comes close. List what i should get first and try to list everything that will improve my car performance in anyway.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: a town of none of ur damned business, usa
i would lower it and put wheels on it if u dont have rust to battle with. make it look somewhat appealing to the eyes. or some jdm here and here if ur into that. the flushmount spoiler are a nice option. a mugen lip. stanley fogs.cf?
no, no im not down for like spoilers and body kit and **** im down for the engine. straight up. sorry
i would lower my car but the place i live has shitty roads so its better not too i do have wheels on it acually but i need to write it down. ill update you on what i have if you click on my profile you can view my car i believe.
i would lower my car but the place i live has shitty roads so its better not too i do have wheels on it acually but i need to write it down. ill update you on what i have if you click on my profile you can view my car i believe.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: a town of none of ur damned business, usa
hey you asked, i gave u my insight. and im not meaning just any spoiler. OEM flushmount which is jdm. and no kit.
Are you looking to stay naturally aspirated (N/A) or forced induction (Boost)? This decision will drastically affect the choices you need to make for parts.
What are your power goals? 220-250whp or 300+whp
What is your budget? $2-3k or $8-10k
Your question is like so many others before you...... Extremely Vague!
Here are a few things you can do some research on;
Upgrade camshaft & valve train - cam, springs, retainers, seals & maybe larger valves if you want to remove the head.
Do you want to do any work to the block?
Because you can always go with a set of aftermarket forged aluminum pistons. Ether to up your compression (N/A) or strengthen your ring lands (Boost) There are also connecting rods that you can upgrade while your in there. A - H - I beam rods, depends on what your building your engine for.
Custom header, Bisimoto Engineering, SMSP etc, etc....
Upgrade to an F23 intake manifold (there are a few swap threads around for you to research), 65-68mm throttle body, upgraded fuel injectors. Injecotrs from a 92-96 VTEC Prelude 345cc will work N/A. Larger injectors will probably be required for boosted applications. and don't forget a higher flowing fuel pump.
Upgraded clutch assembly and aluminum flywheel.
Limited Slip Dif 5spd transmission.
Most importantly*** If your are looking to make power out of any upgrades you make to your engine. You need to spend money on tuning & tuning hardware. For example, there are the stand alone engine management systems like the AEM EMS, Motech or Hytech. These are the top of the line all in one engine management systems. Or you could go the cheaper route. Get yourself a chipped & tuned OBD1 (Civic/Integra) Engine Control Unit (ECU). Ether of these options require a qualified technician, or at least someone with tuning experience, to get them to run properly.
I'm sure I forgot a few things but this should be enough for you to chew on for a while.
BTW! that's a clean looking Accord ya got there.
Not so crazy about the headlights though
What are your power goals? 220-250whp or 300+whp
What is your budget? $2-3k or $8-10k
Your question is like so many others before you...... Extremely Vague!
Here are a few things you can do some research on;
Upgrade camshaft & valve train - cam, springs, retainers, seals & maybe larger valves if you want to remove the head.
Do you want to do any work to the block?
Because you can always go with a set of aftermarket forged aluminum pistons. Ether to up your compression (N/A) or strengthen your ring lands (Boost) There are also connecting rods that you can upgrade while your in there. A - H - I beam rods, depends on what your building your engine for.
Custom header, Bisimoto Engineering, SMSP etc, etc....
Upgrade to an F23 intake manifold (there are a few swap threads around for you to research), 65-68mm throttle body, upgraded fuel injectors. Injecotrs from a 92-96 VTEC Prelude 345cc will work N/A. Larger injectors will probably be required for boosted applications. and don't forget a higher flowing fuel pump.
Upgraded clutch assembly and aluminum flywheel.
Limited Slip Dif 5spd transmission.
Most importantly*** If your are looking to make power out of any upgrades you make to your engine. You need to spend money on tuning & tuning hardware. For example, there are the stand alone engine management systems like the AEM EMS, Motech or Hytech. These are the top of the line all in one engine management systems. Or you could go the cheaper route. Get yourself a chipped & tuned OBD1 (Civic/Integra) Engine Control Unit (ECU). Ether of these options require a qualified technician, or at least someone with tuning experience, to get them to run properly.
I'm sure I forgot a few things but this should be enough for you to chew on for a while.
BTW! that's a clean looking Accord ya got there.
Not so crazy about the headlights though
HAHA I feel what your sayin, some ppl just dont understand the clean look of JDM!! I <3 JDM I have a entire Sir JDM front end Ive been piecing together for years sitting in my garage waiting for install.
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Hello. I've been searching for a while about my upcoming question and I'm still not sure if I'm in the right section. But here goes. I bought a 94 Accord EX Vtec about a yr ago. I pretty much have to rebuild it from scratch. It needed new tires (I added 4 Yokohama Avid Envigor's). I gave it a complete tune-up (the top NGK plugs, NGK wires, Honda's rotor & cap, Mobil1 synthetic & PVC valve change-I now need to add a thermometer). I've changed my tranny oil as well.
I put Wagner brakes on the front. My mechanic said I nd to change the rear rotors of which I plan to w/ Wagner rotors & brakes (good/bad?). After changing the tires, my steering wheel continues to shake even after an alignment (it was a 1/4 in off on the drivers side). It doesn't drift but shakes like hell when I'm braking. I was told that I nd to change the rotors. I'm thinking of Wagner's #125133 ventilated rotors. Are these somewhat the same as cross-drilled/slotted rotors. What are the best rotors (hi performance/not) on a low to med budget? What is best:cross-drilled/slotted?
Today I lost my speedometer,the D4 that shows I'm in drive on the dash started blinking (I hope I described this correctly) & my check engine light came on. Everything almost @ once. Pls-what could this be?
Oh yeah, I added KYB shocks up front. But I still get a heavy rattle noise when I hit/go over bumps (not intentionally). It does this on the drivers side. My mechanic tightened up the upper control arm but it continues to rattle.
I put Wagner brakes on the front. My mechanic said I nd to change the rear rotors of which I plan to w/ Wagner rotors & brakes (good/bad?). After changing the tires, my steering wheel continues to shake even after an alignment (it was a 1/4 in off on the drivers side). It doesn't drift but shakes like hell when I'm braking. I was told that I nd to change the rotors. I'm thinking of Wagner's #125133 ventilated rotors. Are these somewhat the same as cross-drilled/slotted rotors. What are the best rotors (hi performance/not) on a low to med budget? What is best:cross-drilled/slotted?
Today I lost my speedometer,the D4 that shows I'm in drive on the dash started blinking (I hope I described this correctly) & my check engine light came on. Everything almost @ once. Pls-what could this be?
Oh yeah, I added KYB shocks up front. But I still get a heavy rattle noise when I hit/go over bumps (not intentionally). It does this on the drivers side. My mechanic tightened up the upper control arm but it continues to rattle.
Honda-Tech Member




Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 67
From: Tampa, FL, USA or Somewhere in the Caribbean
This really should have been in your own thread..
Concerning the rotors, personally I woudl go with brembo "blanks" or plain rotors for your application.. Shop around for pricing..
For slotted, Brembo Sport.. but just don't get BOTH cross drilled and slotted.
If changing your rotors, change your pads while you are at it to Hawk HPS.. You won't regret it..
Also remember to use a good quality brake fluid (eg. Castrol GT-LMA or ATE SuperBlue if you order it online)
Concerning your suspension, if your shocks are fine then check out your ball joints and control arm bushings... those are the likely culprit...
About the D4 light and speedo.. your VSS or vehicle speed sensor is likely to be dead.. pick up a new one and that should fix all of your dashboard warnings...
Concerning the rotors, personally I woudl go with brembo "blanks" or plain rotors for your application.. Shop around for pricing..
For slotted, Brembo Sport.. but just don't get BOTH cross drilled and slotted.
If changing your rotors, change your pads while you are at it to Hawk HPS.. You won't regret it..
Also remember to use a good quality brake fluid (eg. Castrol GT-LMA or ATE SuperBlue if you order it online)
Concerning your suspension, if your shocks are fine then check out your ball joints and control arm bushings... those are the likely culprit...
About the D4 light and speedo.. your VSS or vehicle speed sensor is likely to be dead.. pick up a new one and that should fix all of your dashboard warnings...
Thanx "nicolaselias." I didn't start my own thread b/c it said that I wasn't allowed until after 5 posts (believe me when I say that I wanted to do that). I don't want to cause any problems. The problem w/ the front brakes is that I have already put on the Wagner's of which my mechanic said that he would shave down the rotors to make everything right. They've only been on for a wk/two.
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