Ok so here we go, symptoms below:

1). AC will blow cold for about 10 minutes or so when I first turn it on in the morning, then I will feel the cold turn into warm and it is basically shot until the next time I go for a drive.

2). There seems to be a small leak of something that leaves a residue (small amount) coming from the front of the car. It is not coolant nor is it water, if it is r14 or w/e the ac uses I can't tell.

3). At idle the car will struggle to maintain rpm and shortly after there is an annoying squeel that lasts a couple seconds which is highly embarassing. Squeel goes away immediately if I shut off the ac.

4). Belts are relatively new.

As you can imagine driving in south Florida in 90 degree weather with 90% humidity can be daunting. Thanks for the help, hope I was detailed enough, I know literally nothing about car ac.

 

Is this the symptom of a leak?

 

Sounds like you may have two problems.
The residue on the front of the car, where exactly is it? Depending on where the residue is, it may be an A/C system charge leak.
The squeal noise you're hearing with an engine idle problem but both clear up as soon as u turn off the A/C it either the A/C idler/tensioner pulley freezing up or the A/C compressor itself locking up.

 

It must be the idler/tensioner because while it is squeeling, ac will still be blowing uninterrupted. If there is a small leak would the lack of pressure stop it from blowing cold?

 

As the A/C intermittently blows cold and the squealing noise goes away when the A/C button is turned off, it's almost certain that the problem can be fixed by replacing the A/C compressor pulley and armature plate. These can be purchased as a kit. It is possible to do this job without removing the compressor or disconnecting the refrigerant lines, if you don't mind working in a tight space.

 

If your AC blows cold for a while then goes warm, then blows cold again later, that is your expansion valve freezing up (I'm not an expert on AC, so you may want to double check this). The pressure switch in the AC system is what tells the compressor to cycle on and off. If it doesn't shut off at the correct times, your expansion valve freezes up and your AC no worky.

After sitting for a bit, it thaws and works again.

I believe you need a new pressure switch.

 

The pressure switch is in the compressor, no? I may just grab a new compressor/mounting plate/idler and hope for the best. I guess 13 years and 140k miles take their toll.

 

The pressure switch is separate from the compressor.
You said you had a fluid leak near front of car that wasn't coolant or water. A low charge will cause the A/C to be inefficient.
The pressure switch prevents the A/C system from turning on with low/no charge or excessively high charge/pressure in the system. It is not what cycles the A/C compressor on & off during normal operation. It shuts off the compressor at high side pressures either below 28 PSI or above 455 PSI.
The A/C thermal protector protects the A/C compressor from overheating and shuts off the compressor.
The A/C thermostat measures the temperature of the A/C evaporator to prevent it from getting too cold & causing the water in the air to freeze to evaporator & blocking air flow. It will shut the compressor off when the evaporator temp drops below 37 degrees F.

 

Problem has been fixed. I took it to a local Honda specialist and the problem was that the compressor clutch needed to be shimmed. $120 in labor later and the air conditioning is ICE COLD. Just another avenue for someone to explore if their AC starts acting up. Thanks for the help H-T. RonJ looked to be right on the money.