I have a trunk mounted battery (with a fuse and vented box) and I will be upgrading the wiring to 1/0 AWG (had 4 AWG) and will be running both (+) and (-) wires to the engine bay. I don't see a hole in the firewall that looks like it could handle to 1/0 AWG wires. Should I put a fuse/distribution block at the firewall and downgrade them to 4 AWG? Cover them with petroleum jelly and push hard (yeah that's kinda funny)? or add a hole to the firewall?

Also, do I have to buy wire specifically designated as "battery cable" or will any of the wires sold as amplifier power wires be fine? I was looking at; http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...0Fleks%20Kable

Thanks,

 

4 Ga. Wire will do fine for a honda, if you had a long car, like a GM-b body with a high compression monster, you would probably need a higher gauge. Also, Ground the battery in the back, the shorter the ground the better. Use a factory grommet if at all possible for the best seal, silicone works great to seal as opposed to petroleum jelly. If you need to drill a hole, grommet and silicone it, you'll be fine. Get a good battery as well, such as an optima/orbital/kinetik, some sort of sealed dry cell. While the vented box is nice, unless you vent the box outside the cabin, using a lead acid battery will give off fumes under normal operation that could cause issues.

 

As stated above do not run your negative all the way to under hood just ground it as close as you can to the battery, shorter ground the better. Also I would not worry about venting, I have had my battery in the trunk of my prelude for years with my sub and amps with no problem and its not even a dry cell.

 

The battery will be vented outside the car. I already have this set-up and it is a requirement for the clubs I drive with. It is a track car (still street legal) with a b18c1 swap. It has 11:1 compression and and an M&W CDI unit with a crane coil.

I was told to use 1/0 AWG and to run the ground to the engine bay by a tech at MSD (I had one of their 6AL units in the car previously). Were they completely overkilling it? Or with a higher compression swap and upgraded ignition would it be smart to go with 1/0 AWG?

I have also seen posts that state grounding in the trunk won't necessarily guarantee a good ground in the engine bay. I may ground to a distribution block in the trunk and then run a ground (1/0 AWG) to the engine block.

 

i always grounded to the spare tire mounting hole with a bolt

 

Fixed it for you there.

Why the heck would you not want to vent it? Not only the fume is deadly to inhale, a small spark can set off an explosion or fire.

 

Save for the ground to the block from the battery. When you do the ground in the back, use a die grinder or sander of some sorts to get the metal bare, then drill a hole, and nut and bolt the ground from the chassis to the battery. If you want to be safe for up front, do the same for bare metal contact and use one of the factory threaded holes and bolt the grounds from the chassis to the block. The more the merrier, just don't get carried away.

 

Yes the shorter the ground the better, wire it up somewhere in the back. I used this NRG 8 point ground kit and grounded it one of the taillight bolts & others to the jack hold thing. I used 2 gauge wiring works just fine

 

excatly

 

Just a little overkill I think.

 

Sometimes i don't like putting battery at the back.. You wouldn't want to start a fire works. I guess that really depend on the battery you're putting there..