Got my set of speedbleeders last night and I'm hoping to install them and flush my brake fluid this weekend. It seems like that these work wonders when installed "correctly." I've done my research on the install and there seems to be subtle difference as to what was the correct method is.

-According to http://www.speedbleeder.com...
<U>Method 1</U>
- Screw Speed Bleeder until it seats

<U>Method 2</U>
- Screw Speed Bleeder in. Resistance will occur once the thread sealant is reached.
- When the Speed Bleeder "bottoms out," tighten to 32-40 in-lbs.

<U>QUESTIONS</U>
1.) Will there be an obvious difference between the resistance due to the thread sealant and resistance when the Speed Bleeder is properly seated?

2.) What does bottom out mean? To me it means to screw in until there are no more threads on the Speed Bleeder that are exposed. I've heard that this is the wrong way to do it.

3.) How much brake fluid will spill out when I unscrew the stock bleeder screw?

An interesting fact I learned from reading the warning on the bag that came with the Speed Bleeder. Brake fluid can be absored through the skin and cause damage to your liver!!! WTF's up with that?!


[Modified by CPR, 11:00 AM 9/13/2002]

 

chris, wear gloves and becareful

 

1) yes.. you will feel it get snugg
2) some threads will be exposed... just turn till it gets snugg
3) mot much at all... keep a rag handy and be quick like a ninja

 

speedbleeder sucks IMHO. I would still get a friend to help you out and drink beer. doing brake flush by 1 person sucks.

 

Cosworth - Just wondering why you think it sucks.

 

Once it bottoms out... hand tighten it with "reasonable" hand pressure. Remember that the speedbleeders are made from softer metal. It doesn't take much force to strip these. But if you take your time to tighten them down slowly you'll know by the "feel" that they are tight and closed. Simply push down the pedal to see that there are no leaks.

I used this method and all is fine. It's not really that hard.

As far as people having issues with installation - I guess some people are used to using brute force over simple finess. I don't know what else to say.

 

Cause he is scared to work on the car by himself. With 2 people, you have some one to blamn when **** goes wrong

 

Chris,

The bleeder will "bottom out" when the pointed tip hits the inside of the caliper. There might be some visible threads left, I can't remember. If you bought some of the re-sealant, you could clean up one of the bleeders and screw it in all the way and see how far they go in. Then re-apply the sealant when you put them on.

Keep in mind that 40 in-lbs is less than 4 ft-lbs (my torque wrench doesn't even go that low), but this has to be a conservative estimate. You'd think they were made out of Play-Do ir something.

Tighten everything up and pump the pedal and stand on it for a few seconds, then check for leaks. You should be fine.

 

well said.

 

I just screw them in until they are tight. On mine the metal for the bleeders is softer than the caliper metal so worst comes to worst I the speedbleeders strip and I gotta but some new ones.

Actually, my biggest problem has been the nuts on the bleeders rounding off. I use a flare wrench when I got it so it holds them better, but they still round off after about a year. On my second set now.

 

What kind of tool should I use to torque the bleeders once installed? It's softer metal so I'd most likely want to use a flare wrench to thread the bleeder into the caliper. Do they make a flare wrench extension that can be used with a torque wrench?

Ant