I've read a ton on this stroker setup, mainly most of what rosko has done and alot of it has been a giant flow of info that answered alot of my questions.

Even with all the information there is about the swap I am still a little unclear about piston and cam clearance issuses. From what i have read is that people have ran Type-S pistons for the huge compression boost it gives running the h23 rotating assembly, but in those post alot are unclear about what cam they are running.

Roskos was a bit different as his was 88mm bore and aftermarket pistons although he did run the same cams I am running now which are the Pro2's

What I am looking to run in a nutshell is the H23 crank / rods + Type-S pistons all balanced along with my Pro2's. From what i hear the Type-S pistons have different valve relief cuts in them then the normal USDM and JDM pistons.

My valves are all stock size btw, I did not feel the need to go oversized as they head was port and polished with valve job and it flows extreamly well as is.

If I were to run this combo ( If it can be ran without a headache ) What type or size of HG am i looking at running? Would stock size suffice or would i have to go to something a bit bigger like .05 thickness? I want to run the clearances for the P2V at a safe level and not have my compression suffer to much. I would like to keep the compression around 12.5:1 - 12:1.

Other then the balancing and mic'd crank are OEM style mains and rod barings going to be ok if i plan to use the entire power band? Is there a better choice to go with?

 

The type s piston u can run but u just have to cut the valve reliefs. But i think u might have to get s custom piston and most def when u do the build clay the motor and check ur p2v and v2v contact since the engine is going to be built from scratch. And using h23 crank rod and type s piston with the stock head gasket the compression should be 12 to 1.

So to get ur compression that u want a custom piston may have to be made for ur build i'd say but i would wait for pirate mcfred and NaH2b to chime in and other h22 guru's.

I myself have f22 crank rods jdm pistons with the head shaved alittle should be around 11.7 now. But i've got plenty of room for pro2's or the Tuner 's which is what my next mod is going to be. And a better flowing header.

 

well let me explained to something it will benefit you too cut the reliefs but if you clay the motor and rund the proper v2v and p2v you should be fine.. I did this build already only difference was i used was crower stage 3 cams. My problem was my exhaust valves contacted and ringlands broke on number 3 piston. If you want look at my build thread and there is pics of everything on my old build. i am going bigger this year.

 

H22 pistons will stick out of hole 20k, in order to have decent valve to piston you will want atleast a 60k thick headgasket. I run this in my h23v turbo crx. This will get you to the tiny more then normal v2p clearance. This will however bring your compression to 11-1.

I personally and wouldn't recommend running the stock h23/f22 rods with a cam such as pro1 or 2. Atleast invest in IB builder H23 I beam. In the $300 mark. I would see if it would work with the Type S piston. Like Eagle, has 2 rods for h22 one will work with Type S piston. Or some machine work is needed I believe.

I would then have a machine shop cut the reliefs a little deeper in the pistons. Its going to be close once you dial in the pro2's I would imagine.

I would then balance the whole assembly from flywheel bolt to key way. This is to ensure ever part you have works together right and gives you reliability.

ARP head studs a must, pro series valve springs and retainers...

After all this work I would not use a stock intake manifold. Atleast a Euro R and 450-550cc injectors and a 68mm TB.

 

The head is already built for the cams as they are in the car right now running on a stock JDM block. Im going to have to redo all the clearances with the valves and pistons again once i drop in the new rotating assembly.

I was trying to get a feel for what had to be done to the pistons running the pro2's. I know theres no way to know for sure since every engine is different, I guess ill find out once I get the whole rotating assembly together lol.

Has anyone ran an aggressive cams like the Pro2 w/o having to cut deeper reliefs in the type-s piston while on a h23 crank and rod combo?

The whole point of me doing the h23 rods/crank with type-s pistons is for the high compression and torque, but if im going to be 11:1 i might as well skip the rods and crank and just put the pistons on and achevie the same results.


What I was looking at was H23 crank / h23 probe rods + type-S piston, since I have no milling on either the head or block I wanted to run atleast a
.05/.06 head gasket to for the little extra insurance and the pistons would be sticking out the block by .02 thus with the .05 I would have in theory the stock clearance of .03.

If I run into issues with the valve contact I will have to get the valve reliefs cut a little deeper when I take the whole assembly in to get balanced.

Am I missing any of the major parts of this head ache lol?

 

One would imagine that it would be so much easier just to run a set of H22 rods and custom 29mm compression height pistons with your H23/F22 crank. It will put the compression height of your piston even with the deck. = 0.002" lower than stock.

By the time you machine valve reliefs and buy a thicker head gasket you'll have paid the same amount as you would have for custom pistons. Bisi has a stroker combo that he is selling for the F22/H23 for $750. Longer rods (probably H22) and custom pistons (probably 29mm CH Arias) I'm sure he could make them 87mm pistons for around the same price.

H22 Block = 219.5mm Deck Height (same as H23/F22)
H22 Head = 54cc Combustion Chamber
H22 Bore = 87mm
F22/H23 Crank = 95mm
H22 Rod = 143mm
Custom H22 Pistons = 87mm bore x 29mm CH x 1.6mm dome
H22 Head Gasket = 0.66mm (stock 3 layer 0.026")
Compression = approx. 11:1
Displacement = 2260cc (2.3L)
No clearance issues with stock valves.

Just my 2¢ worth!

 

If this is in an h-series block, no custom pistons, so can't really go there. Machining valve reliefs isn't prohibitively expensive and you'll need a new headgasket anyway, so I don't think you can say it would cost the same amount for custom pistons (if you even could) versus basically just a fly cut on the valve reliefs.

OP, I think you're on the right track; type-s pistons for compression but I agree some aftermarket rods are probably not a bad idea. Clay it all out with the pro2's if you have them and then get the valve reliefs cut accordingly once you know how much needs to get taken out. This should keep you in the 12:1 range or so with the right headgasket which will be a good compliment to those cams.

 

Forgot about them POS FRM sleeves. Oh well, better luck next time!

Oh just for shytes and giggles how much do you figure for a flycut job? I got a flycut quote from a local shop for $150 on 4 OEM Honda K24 pistons. So you factor in that Type S pistons are roughly $300 + $100-150 for flycut = $450. So you are correct, it would be cheaper. However, It would only cost you a whopping $100 more for a set of custom forged aluminum pistons. And that is at regular price. There are deals to be had.

Anywho /rant The H block has to stick with FRM safe pistons unless you sleeve it.

 

True, I wasn't figuring in the price of the type-s pistons (forgot he didn't have them yet) and I was taking a guess that custom pistons would be more in the $800-$900 range.

 

Nah not quite that bad. I got my Wiseco slipper skirts from Race Engineering for $525, they have a 29mm compression height, 89mm bore, and a 0.6cc dome. It was the H22 Carrillo rods that killed me. They were in the $800 range.

 

who ported ur head an how did it flow if u dont mine me asking


i know ur pain on the carrillo rod but they are nice

 

I actually found a set of type-S pistons and rods for stupid cheap ~$100.

Kinda off subject but a Mech I know that does alot of build is driving me crazy with this telling me there is alot more machine work needed to make everything fit. Just going off all the threads and info I have got, besides the obvious balancing and some honeing on my block to put my mind at ease they should be basically plug and play with a tune.

Im boarder line deciding on just sticking to the H22 rotating assembly and going with type-s pistons since i got them so cheap. Every inner part of me wants to go with the H23 crank and rods tho as i have found some extreamly cheap h23 probe rods to compliment the whole thing.

I want some piece of mind that I am not gonna destroy or run into any problems if i do this correctly lol. It just seems for the prices i have found for these parts that it is stupid not to do the stroked out H23vtec for the torque and power gains I would get. GAH!

 

Go for it.

 

^x2

I'm pretty sure there isn't that much machine work to do an H23 crank swap. What is your mech buddy saying needs to be machined?

Crank fits the block (as long as they are both 50mm mains)
& the pistons fit the rods & cylinder bores (they also work with FRM sleeves)

The only thing I can see is that your piston will be approx. 0.022" out of the hole. So you might require a thicker head gasket. A 0.04" 0.05" head gasket will cover that no problem. Clay the motor, that is the key.