Best motor for me?
I have been researching on my favorite motors. I cant decide which one i should buy so i want your opinions. I'm a big fan on high hp and high tq too. Here are my favorites:
-B20vtec (willing to build one)
-B18c1
-B18c5
-H22a (which one is the best in the H-series)
-H23a (same as h22a question)
Hope you guys will help me out.
-B20vtec (willing to build one)
-B18c1
-B18c5
-H22a (which one is the best in the H-series)
-H23a (same as h22a question)
Hope you guys will help me out.
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Do a b20vtec w/ RS machine ITR dome pistons! With some mild head work, decent cams, IM, header, and a tune, you should have NO problem making 220+whp and TONS of torque! All this SHOULD fit into your 4k dollar budget!
Go read the "how to build a realiable ls/b20 vtec"
basically the rundown is
-ARP Rod bolts, ITR/GSR waterpump, oil pump, ARP mainstuds, headstuds..etc
Go do some research
OOOORRRRRRR
h2b is always nice if you dont feel like starting from scratch
-JDM h22, qsd adapter plate, nice cams, bolt ons, and a tune and it will make close to the power of the b20vtec
Go read the "how to build a realiable ls/b20 vtec"
basically the rundown is
-ARP Rod bolts, ITR/GSR waterpump, oil pump, ARP mainstuds, headstuds..etc
Go do some research
OOOORRRRRRR
h2b is always nice if you dont feel like starting from scratch
-JDM h22, qsd adapter plate, nice cams, bolt ons, and a tune and it will make close to the power of the b20vtec
Do a b20vtec w/ RS machine ITR dome pistons! With some mild head work, decent cams, IM, header, and a tune, you should have NO problem making 220+whp and TONS of torque! All this SHOULD fit into your 4k dollar budget!
Go read the "how to build a realiable ls/b20 vtec"
basically the rundown is
-ARP Rod bolts, ITR/GSR waterpump, oil pump, ARP mainstuds, headstuds..etc
Go do some research
OOOORRRRRRR
h2b is always nice if you dont feel like starting from scratch
-JDM h22, qsd adapter plate, nice cams, bolt ons, and a tune and it will make close to the power of the b20vtec
Go read the "how to build a realiable ls/b20 vtec"
basically the rundown is
-ARP Rod bolts, ITR/GSR waterpump, oil pump, ARP mainstuds, headstuds..etc
Go do some research
OOOORRRRRRR
h2b is always nice if you dont feel like starting from scratch
-JDM h22, qsd adapter plate, nice cams, bolt ons, and a tune and it will make close to the power of the b20vtec
I found this engine at a good price, http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30018
good deal? i heard H-series has bad tranny?
good deal? i heard H-series has bad tranny?
Where did you hear that? The LSD trans from the type s is def. not a bad trans. You must be listening to those guys who like the H2B short gear builds. If you want to be able to drive your car reliably & comfortably on the street and highway stick with the H22 LSD trans, you'll be happy.
That being said, If you can only save up to $4000 your not going to be able to afford the Type S engine and trans you referred too. It will cost you $4k just to get it to your door. Never mind the mounts and other parts that you will require to put it in your car. I think that a regular H22A would be more in your price range. You can always swap cams, intake manifolds & throttle bodies later down the road when you get more money.
That being said, If you can only save up to $4000 your not going to be able to afford the Type S engine and trans you referred too. It will cost you $4k just to get it to your door. Never mind the mounts and other parts that you will require to put it in your car. I think that a regular H22A would be more in your price range. You can always swap cams, intake manifolds & throttle bodies later down the road when you get more money.
Where did you hear that? The LSD trans from the type s is def. not a bad trans. You must be listening to those guys who like the H2B short gear builds. If you want to be able to drive your car reliably & comfortably on the street and highway stick with the H22 LSD trans, you'll be happy.
That being said, If you can only save up to $4000 your not going to be able to afford the Type S engine and trans you referred too. It will cost you $4k just to get it to your door. Never mind the mounts and other parts that you will require to put it in your car. I think that a regular H22A would be more in your price range. You can always swap cams, intake manifolds & throttle bodies later down the road when you get more money.
That being said, If you can only save up to $4000 your not going to be able to afford the Type S engine and trans you referred too. It will cost you $4k just to get it to your door. Never mind the mounts and other parts that you will require to put it in your car. I think that a regular H22A would be more in your price range. You can always swap cams, intake manifolds & throttle bodies later down the road when you get more money.
Traction would be an issue with any light chassis and an engine with a bit of torque. If your used to a B series with 120 ft-lbs @ 7,000 rpm or a D series with 100 ft-lbs @ 5,200 then yes an H22A with 150-170 ft-lbs @ 5,000 could break loose every now and then. Even more so if you use a short gear B series trans.
The gearing in a b series trans is made to quickly reach the higher RPM ranges (7,000) where the B series makes it's 120-130 ft-lbs of tq. Where as the H series make there 150-180 ft-lbs in the 5,000 rpm range. The faster you reach the 5,000 rpm 170 ft-lb tq range the more likely you will be to break loose or spin. Use an H trans with a good suspention setup & tires and you should be able to put more of that power to the ground.
To keep the wheels from spinning will require good tuning and suspention. Don't forget about stopping that power as well. It will probably cost you close to the same price as your swap to actually get all the power to the ground and to get it stopped properly.
The gearing in a b series trans is made to quickly reach the higher RPM ranges (7,000) where the B series makes it's 120-130 ft-lbs of tq. Where as the H series make there 150-180 ft-lbs in the 5,000 rpm range. The faster you reach the 5,000 rpm 170 ft-lb tq range the more likely you will be to break loose or spin. Use an H trans with a good suspention setup & tires and you should be able to put more of that power to the ground.
To keep the wheels from spinning will require good tuning and suspention. Don't forget about stopping that power as well. It will probably cost you close to the same price as your swap to actually get all the power to the ground and to get it stopped properly.
Traction would be an issue with any light chassis and an engine with a bit of torque. If your used to a B series with 120 ft-lbs @ 7,000 rpm or a D series with 100 ft-lbs @ 5,200 then yes an H22A with 150-170 ft-lbs @ 5,000 could break loose every now and then. Even more so if you use a short gear B series trans.
The gearing in a b series trans is made to quickly reach the higher RPM ranges (7,000) where the B series makes it's 120-130 ft-lbs of tq. Where as the H series make there 150-180 ft-lbs in the 5,000 rpm range. The faster you reach the 5,000 rpm 170 ft-lb tq range the more likely you will be to break loose or spin. Use an H trans with a good suspention setup & tires and you should be able to put more of that power to the ground.
To keep the wheels from spinning will require good tuning and suspention. Don't forget about stopping that power as well. It will probably cost you close to the same price as your swap to actually get all the power to the ground and to get it stopped properly.
The gearing in a b series trans is made to quickly reach the higher RPM ranges (7,000) where the B series makes it's 120-130 ft-lbs of tq. Where as the H series make there 150-180 ft-lbs in the 5,000 rpm range. The faster you reach the 5,000 rpm 170 ft-lb tq range the more likely you will be to break loose or spin. Use an H trans with a good suspention setup & tires and you should be able to put more of that power to the ground.
To keep the wheels from spinning will require good tuning and suspention. Don't forget about stopping that power as well. It will probably cost you close to the same price as your swap to actually get all the power to the ground and to get it stopped properly.
well the b20vtecs are more in the 135-150 tq range kinda inbetween the 1.8l b-series and h-series motors with 4k i would go built b20vtec like stated above
I am an h2b fan so here is what i say:
1000$(H22A longblock from Hmotors)
500$ B16 tranny
750$ QSD h2b kit(or you can try and find a used one for cheaper)
300$ B series mounts
300$ Decent clutch kit
150$ Fidanza flywheel
400$ HighEnd TRI-Y H2B header
400$ Misc parts like axles/starter/fluids/shift linkage
Total:3800$ and you'll run low 13s/high 12s
I'm sure you can get that even lower if you camp craigslist/the marketplace for deals on decent used parts..
1000$(H22A longblock from Hmotors)
500$ B16 tranny
750$ QSD h2b kit(or you can try and find a used one for cheaper)
300$ B series mounts
300$ Decent clutch kit
150$ Fidanza flywheel
400$ HighEnd TRI-Y H2B header
400$ Misc parts like axles/starter/fluids/shift linkage
Total:3800$ and you'll run low 13s/high 12s
I'm sure you can get that even lower if you camp craigslist/the marketplace for deals on decent used parts..
my personal choice would be a b20vtec. IMO best combintation of potential and ease of swap.
after that, a b18c.....either one, doesnt really matter cuz with some work the gsr can have as much or more power than the C5.
after that, a b18c.....either one, doesnt really matter cuz with some work the gsr can have as much or more power than the C5.


