I know you can't tell how much horse an engine will make without a dyno, but I had my car on a dyno and i was shocked at the results. Here is what I have, tell me if it should have made 142hp i was hoping VERY BEST at 185 but more than 160.

b20z
forged pistons 11:1
crower 403s w/ springs and retainers
Aem v2 intake
2 1/4 exhaust (cat delete)
dc sports type r exhaust manifold (i know they suck, but they were the right price)
68mm tb
skunk2 intake man
rc 370cc injectors
Aem fuel rail and pressure regulator (i know they don't make hp)
competition stage 2 clutch
competition 12lb flywheel

 

it's tuned on a s300 by one of the best tuners on the east coast

 

100000 whp

 

Sounds pretty bad. Did you build the motor? Dyno graph? seems low for a build...

 

yes i just rebuild the motor. i do not have the graph. I'm trying to get it.

 

So you're making about 18whp over stock? How's your compression? Did you do a leakdown test after the rebuild?

Seems like you got enough air capacity with the bigger TB and intake/exhaust. I assume you're using stock cams? Maybe different cams may wake up the engine if you're compression is good. I know my B18c1 didn't do much over stock with high compression pistons until after I replaced the stock cams.

fm

fm

 

hes on crower 403 cams. it should def be making more. somethings choking it up or the dyno reads very low. I had a stock b18b1 bottom end with a ported head and gude cams stock intake mani and t.b. and it made 145 which I was disapointed with.

 

I bet that 2.0l isn't liking the 2.25" exhaust too.

 

How high are you revving the engine? At what rpm did it make that HP? How much torque and at what rpm?

A horsepower number is useless without the corresponding rpm.

 

thats what i was thinking.


post a graph with an AFR curve if possible

 

How was the finish on the cylinder walls? What piston-to-cylinder wall clearance did you have? Did you use oversize or stock sized pistons?

Realistically, you made about the right amount of power. The stock port head and your 2.25" exhaust is killing you power.

 

Ah, I missed that he had Crower 403s. Still in for compression numbers.

fm

 

Dynojet ? mustang dyno? dynapack?

 

compression was consistent in all cylinders. I did the compression test manually before putting the engine in the car and they were all every consistent (within 3 psi)

142 @ 7.5k rpm
I do not have the torque numbers. = ( or the graph. trying to pick it up friday.

the walls looked good. #3 was discolored and it felt SLIGHTLY rough, but after I honed it, it was smooth.

So the 60mm exhaust was a mistake? if you had to guess how much improvement will I see with a good p&p?

dynojet

 

i think dyonjets are ~10% off but usually they correct them. some 2.5IN exhaust and some replica hytech headers w/ a 2.5IN collector should bump your power up quite some.

 

so would new exhaust or a p&p make better numbers? i am leaning toward porting b/c exhaust = tickets that's the reason for my small exhaust. I have to travel through the mountains of VA where there are tons of small cities who's income comes from college kids driving through...

 

If it was my car I would prob go 2.5" at the VERY least. Id look for 2.75" or 3" that will open it up alot. you can get an inline resonator and a nice vibrant muffler or something somewhat quiet to make it less of a ticket getter.

also for the p&p it will depend how much more power you will make on how well its done. a mild clean up won't yeild a whole lot opposed to a full portflow or rlz job.

 

You dont need 3" exhaust for 200whp guys.....though downsizing from 2.5 to 2.25 is a restriction.

 

never said its needed. but Iv seen 2.0ls have decent gains from 3".

 

So the walls were not honed and sized professionally?

A 2.5" exhaust flows ~23% more than a 2.25" exhaust. I'd say that makes a significant difference. A 3" flows ~77% more than a 2.25 inch. Don't expect better numbers until you let the engine breathe better.

I would swap to a VTEC head before spending more money on a P75 head.

 

I love all motor non vtec. Im a huge fan of doing something different if thats what your after, if all your looking to do is go fast b20v is by far the better way to go.


it prob is something choking it up. when I cammed my b16 it didn't make much of a difference till I cut my 2.25" collector off my header to go to a 2.5" it made a huge difference.

 

alright fair enough. thanks for the input. oddly enough, other forums have gone the route of saying a "good" p&p would yield better results. I did a little research and talked to the huge honda guys here in Richmond and found out that this particular dyno has been reading 5% low and that I was told the wrong hp. that I am making 147. which is 155 and that is MUCH more reasonable than 142.

also thanks for the sugestion on the quiet exhaust. i just am not man enough to pay to play with a loud exhaust. officer you win, on this.

 

open header or go home!
and 155 sounds much more reasonable. what tq? also take it to the track, mph is the best way to tell power.

 

also do you have cam gears? playing with those can pick up a few whp. I def noticed a gain on my ls when I messed with mine