WTF! what could be wrong here? There is quite a bit of gas in my oil... I smell my oil cap and it smells like my gas cap. Also, when I change my oil, I can see the gas in the oil. Need help!!

Thanks

PS, this is on a JDM H22a.

 

sounds like you have alot of blow-by, do a leak down test and go from there.

 

you probably just have water in your oil. you better change out your head gasket.

 

nice personal image purpl! lol i laughed my *** off seeing it, mcdonald's does suck. (sorry for change of subject.)

 

What are you symptoms??? Does the oil smell heavily of fuel or what?

telling someone to change their headgasket without first running a compression check and leakdown is kinda odd.

I'd do was was suggested earlier: do a leak down.

 

do you have an adjustable FPR? my friend had a piece of junk weapon R fpr, and the diaphram broke, and he ended up with an oil pan full of oil.

 

damn... wouldnt want that

you know i'm just playin but yah good suggestion.

 

SARD makes a good FPR

 

my B&M has been on the car for 4 years now..

workin fine.

I'm told Titan Motorsports sellin for like 88 bucks on here.

 

I have an aem FPR.

I did a leak down test about 2 weeks ago, and only 2-3% escaped. So that shows no problems. Good point about the FPR though... I am going to put on my fuel pressure gauge on monday, I will check out the FPR while I am at it.

As far as symptoms... well... I am not sure if this is related, but from 4100 RPMs to about 5800, my car feels dead, then it picks up.

here is the dyno graph that shows it.
it is a bad pic, but you get the idea. The red line was from dyno tuning in november, and I got my AEM fuel stuff, 3" AEM CAI, msd ignition, clutch, flywheel, LSD, and 370CC RC injectors.

 

I think you need to reset your ECU. Are you throwing codes? Because my VTEC solenoid went bad and did the same thing.

 

I did reset the ECU... infact, I tried another ecu also that didn't work though. My vtec goes on just fine. I can hear it go on. no matter where I set the vtec point to, it would always die out at 4100. I spent 3 hours on the dyno trying different settings for fuel/vtec switchover. no luck though. Is there like some type of butterfly that should open at that RPM that isn't opening?

 

To set vtec properly you should adjust the lower and high cams seperately then whatever maximum for the low can and minimum for the high cam you get the set the vtec point to that.. Looks like at 4100 you secondaries are opening up which is normal..

http://www.hondata.com Good tuning info.

 

The best point for switch over on my car was 4700 RPMs... but no matter where vtec was set to, at 4100 RPMs, it would crap out. even when I set it at 5100, or if I set it at 4100, the same thing would happen.

 

MAP sensor maybe?

 

good question... I am not throwing any codes from it, but what I can do is check the voltage, and make sure that is ok. I tried to unplug it all together to see if it threw a code at all, and it did. infact, my car wouldn't hold an idle.

Is there any chance that drop in hp could be caused by power steering? When the red dyno was done, I didn't have PS, and the blue dyno, I have PS on. I didn't think it could do that much damage... but could that even be the problem?

 

You could have damaged the PS lines/pump when you did not have it on...

 

Everytime I have had fluid other than oil iin the oil it was the head gasket. I am in no way a mechanic I just know **** from a lot of experience.

 

can I just take off the PS belt and see if that fixes my power loss problem? or would that hurt something else?