Just wondering what the stock parts on the H22a are. I know ive seen a list before but I couldn't find it again.

For example,

How much HP does the fuel rail support.
ignition?
valves?
cams?
intake manifold?
transmission?
oem timing belt?

Reason why im asking is that Im looking for a 400hp goal and wondering what needs to be upgraded and what can handle that goal.

 

you don't need to upgrade any of them you mentioned.

 

ya 400 isnt that big of a number. all of the stock parts will be fine.

 

Alright cool.
I was worried because I was ready other forums and some people were saying that the distributor cant keep up after 350hp and the car miss fires so you need higher octane fuel.

Just making sure, thank you

 

Anyone know of a good Sleeve, piston, rod combination for a 400hp boosted H22a?

 

Eagle rods, Darton 300-series (if the block is closed deck type), Arias pistons 9.2:1 is what I have. Possibly will be enough to 600hp.

 

ok called golden eagle up. They wanted 1090$ for sleeves installed.

Thinking of doing the sleeves, Arias low comp pistons, and eagle rods, head gasket, arp head studs.

Sound good for 400hp?
Should i have any problems?

 

dude its not that easy lol. You will soon find out there are more supporting mods you have to do. As far as motor goes, you know the basics a little bit. But your gonna have to figure out which manifold, Wastegate, dump tube style, all the other bs that goes along with it.

 

Im already boosted. Turbonetics turbo kit. Just doing the internals now cause my piston ring blew so i might as well replace everything

I'm worried about finding a good tuner.

 

their kit sucks honestly. the charge piping and the intercooler are way too small. Not to mention the downpipe is as well. You need a 3 in DP if you want to make a good amount of power.

 

Its a treadstone/turbonetics turbo kit.

im just looking for 400hp. Should be ok right?

 

Boost take a LOT of components bro. A lot. By the time ur all said and done ur lookin to spend a few grand. Id reccomend nitrous. Thats what im about to be runnin. JDM H22A w/75 shot (wet). Anything higher then 75 recommends sleeving and doing other supporting mods. but NO2 is way cheaper and less wear on the engine itself

 

nos is lame and boring. Theres nothing like a boosted H. Ive already have the boost and everything on. Just looking to get the block built and tuned to have 400hp. Ive heard a lot of random shyt on the internet and was just double checking. A lot of people try to give advise on something they have never done before.

 

JDM H22 Type S Block
Darton Sleeves
Block Guard
Fully Serviced Crankshaft (Plugged, balanced, ground -if needed, mine needed it so I did it)
JE Low Compressions Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Connecting rods
Brian Crower Stage 2 Turbo Camshafts(305's, personally I find 306's unstreetable)
Accomidating Adjustable Cam Gears
Brian Crower Titanium Valves
BC Dual Valve Springs
Custom Race Spec Rocker Arms (Got them from a local machine shop, apparently the company builds racing spec rocker arms to spec, I can find the # and info u truly need them, I've been nothing short of satisfied).
3 angle valve job
Skunk2 Turbo Intake Manifold
Blox Racing 74mm Throttle Body
AEM Cold Air Intake
1000cc Fuel Injectors
AEM High Flow Fuel Rail
225lph Fuel Pump
Greddy Full Stage II Turbo Kit (There are cheaper options, explore them, took me 5 months to save up for this kit alone but, I have a T70 and a Gt35, which I use depends on what I plan to be doing but for the numbers you're trying to push go for the biggest option, comes with front mount intercooler, all the needed piping.)
Mishimoto Dual Core Radiator Cooling system
D-Speed Custom Deep Freeze System (Basically a Jimmy-Rigged contraption Dan put on my intercooler to lower the charge temperature of the air passing through it, for the most part it works like a charge, how much power it's actually giving me over it not being there, couldn't tell u but since it's on there and he's my buddy i'm advertising it. All it is a freon-injection system any one can build it but be warned it's a bit heavier then someone would like, everything come to a lofty 40-55lbs.
Custom Exaust Manifold and system w/3" downpipe.
Hondata S300
Tuned By Gabe-O
H2b Adapter Plate
Type R Transmission
Stage 5 Clutch
10lb Flywheel

This was what was on my First H22 Build prior to the more sedate build I have now and it put me well over the 600hp mark but the TUNE was the key. I posted the entire thing so that you can get a scope as to what you're trying to do and how much you're trying to spend. Above all other things man, be patient and don't take short cuts, It took me nearly 2 years and close to 10K to shove all that into the bay of a 93 Civic Hatch SI and it was barely, and I mean barely streetable (IF you have crap tires and suspension don't even think you're going to stop spinning tires until 5th gear, seriously, you'll almost never get full on traction with a crap set of tires and you'll be mad because you know u can go faster but can't hook. Eventually I had to take it up to a 17" wheel wrapped in BF-Good's to get it to stick granted I still spun 2nd and half of 3rd.

 

lol nice build. Im not going all out. I have 225/40 18" now. Pretty big. almost to big cause I broke 2 axles already.

Im leaving the head stock for now. I just want 400hp. I need a reliable car more then anything.
NIce list tho bro

 

An A/C system for the intercooler? NICE.

 

ya, how often do you have to refill the freon?

 

So i took the pistons out today. Before today, I thought I blew a piston ring. Turned out that I blew a pencil size hole right threw the side of the piston. The other 3 are cracked on the rings.

After analyzing, Im thinking it had to have been caused due to oil starvation. Like the oil jet squirtter clogged or something. Cause for a hole to blow like that it might have gotten hot or dry.
Don't blame me cause all I use is mobile one and Ive done 3 oil changes this past year. The motor had really bad slug when I first got it.

 

To be honest with you I only drive that car from Spring to end of summer, and it sits in a garage over the winter (I stopped winter driving Turbo cars a loooong time ago.). So I don't know how long it would last if I drove it year round..i'm guessing probably 4months, 6 tops, it's a small system, I can only speculate as to how much it uses as I'm not the guy who services it, I let it's creator do all that.

But I refill it every year tho, once I open the garage and prep, go over the whole car, I refill it and i'm good to go. I'd like to think that it makes a difference, i've yet to run or dyno the car with it off to see any difference with it off.

 

Instead of dumping freon into the atmosphere, why not use water squirters, and plain clean water? or maybe a CO2 system instead? Wouldnt harm the air we breath as much. Dont get me wrong, Im not a hippie or a tree hugger or anything like that. Im just try to take a little more consideration of the planet around me.

 

the AC system does not dump freon into the atmosphere...
________
Honda Nsr250R History

 

If you knew how to read you would see that I wasnt talking about the AC system. I was talking about the system that was being used to cool the intercooler.

 

I think it's an honorable concern dude, to be honest I never even thought about it like that, It was a concept that he came up with, he said he wanted to try it on my car so I was like..Ok, why not, go for it. I may suggest that to him, he said he wanted to try something else that was more "Effective" so who knows you two may be on the same page, when the car comes back from him, i'll take some pics of what he did and how the system looks, it's actually kinda hard to photograph, might have to remove my bumper to get some good quality pics of it but at least you'll get to see the entire set up.

I figured he went the freon route to get a certifiable chill into that intercooler that perhaps Water squirters couldn't provide, in any case I appreciate his effort, and your input either way.

 

theres a kit that sprays water on the intercooler

 

Not a problem ExtraBlackRex. I dont see why water wouldnt work, since all you want it to do is evaporate off the hot surface, taking the heat with it. Think of it as if you were in a pool, and you got out and starting running around. Even on a hot day you would start to get cooler because as the water evaporates it takes the energy with it, thus cooling watever it evaporated off of. Theres also a system that uses CO2 to cool the intercooler. But I think the water would be most effective since its cheap, and can be found everywhere lol