From what I've read it seems that theres no way out in terms of having a soft clutch pedal feel with this conversion. I figured it was because of me using the CRX clutch cable and I bought a DA one but im thinking that its not going to make it any better. Any insight on this topic. My pedal feels real hard....

 

just get a clutch pedal and master from a 92+ civic. you can make brackets to bolt it to the brake pedal and the firewall. then you run the lines out the firewall to go to the resevoir and one to the slave.

this is how my h22 crx is done. i will post a thread tomorow with pics.
the hasport kit is junk and requires constant adjustment.
its very easy to install a hydro assembly in the car

 

hey ive been waiting to see how thats done

 

op, just ask the Brian from Hasport for help. most of the Hasport guys frequent H-T

 

Thanks I appreciate that... and bro that would be awesome if you can post pics... please let me know when you posted pics..

And when you mention adjustment what do you mean because I cant adjust crap on my setup with the crx clutch cable... I havnt put on the DA one..

 

Which Hasport kit are you using, the mechanical one (EFBHCL) or the hydraulic one (CMA)?
http://hasport.com/store/index.php/efbhcl.html
http://hasport.com/store/index.php/cma.html
Also, what kind of clutch are you using?

 

 

I put a DA one in my crx with a b series swap and it is extremely stiff. I also have a stage 2 clutch and pressure plate, which doesn't help either. But if you do have an aftermarket clutch like I do get ready for your clutch pedal to snap at the pivot point. It is a very common problem and it happened to me and a couple other friends also.

On another note, I would also like to see the hydro conversion because my car is a never ending problem with this stupid cable tranny setup.

 

Im Using the EFBHC and I just installed the DA Clutch Cable... HUGE difference... My set up is soft now. and Well I am using a race clutch but i got it with the swap so idk what stage it is..

 

I will try to take pics today and post my setup

 

 

I have previously tried the Hasport mechanical linkage conversion type and had poor results. The pedal was extremely hard and ended up braking my pedal assembly at the clutch pivot point. I also tried the Innovative hydraulic conversion which uses a remote mounted master cylinder. Same hard pedal feel and had a hard time fully disengaging the clutch. Eventually broke another pedal assembly. Keep in mind this was all with and ACT HDR6.

I am currently running the Sonem(suja1) hydraulic conversion kit and seems to work pretty good. The pedal still feels firm but not nearly as stiff as with the other two kits. I think the length of the EF clutch pedal has alot to to with the stiffness. I had this complete swap in an EG before and the pedal effort was considerably softer. If you compare the length of the EG pedal vs the EF pedal you can clearly see the EG is longer. The longer pedal arm increases the leverage and thus reduces the effort required to actuate the clutch.

After messing around with these pedal assemblies for some time, I would recommend using a pedal assembly from an SI or EX as these are more reinforced in the area of the clutch pivot point. I also further reinforced the pedal assembly and the Sonem kit by welding a few pieces of 1/8" thick steel tabs to help prevent further cracking.

 

how much is the sonem?

 

I had the Innovative one. Pedal feel was good.

 

I have used both the mechanical system (EFBHCL) and hydraulic system (CMA) on my own cars and have found that the mechanical system works fine with a stock type clutch and the hydraulic system works well with both a stock style clutch AND with heavy racing style clutches. If you are running anything other than a stock style clutch you need a hydraulic assist wether it's from Hasport or someone else.
We have literally sold thousands of the EFBHCL's and most people are happy with them. I have one on my own B16B swapped CRX.
The key to the EFBHCL working the way it was designed is to make sure it's assembled correctly. Quite often they are re-sold and then re-assembled incorrectly. We have made changes over the years to make it more clear how they are to be assembled. Make sure the C-clip on the small end of the push rod bearing is facing the transmission and uses an allen head bolt to attach it, and make sure the bolt on the big end of the push rod bottoms out against it's lockwasher without actually touching the clutch fork. The push rod should capture the clutch fork but not clamp it.
I hope this info is helpful.

 

I think like $150. Kinda steep but these guys did their homework and it works fairly well. You still have to buy a steel braided line, fittings, reservoir and a length of brake fluid reservoir hose to complete the kit. I ended up running a
-4 steel braided hose from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder. I tried a -3 hose but seemed to require more effort and pedal travel to actuate the clutch so I settled on the -4.

 

What clutch/pressure plate combination were you using?

 

Thank you for that tip.

 

I'd go with Hasport quality pieces from Honda enthusiast. It was good to see you Keith. I am happy that I got to see Brian and Chris in action.