b series vs d series clutch slave cylinder?
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From: Murrieta, CA
I cant find the part number for my EG Si clutch slave cylinder. So my question is are they the same as the B series slave cylinder? I reused the D series clutch master and slave when I swapped to a B series. But I am having clutch problems and want to diagnose the hydraulics. I am seeing a hint of leakage from the master inside the cabin by the pedal. Both clutch master and slave are relativley new, but I am of the mind that if one is failing so soon, might as well break down and get oem parts, no more napa, autozone, etc. crap.
So with that said, I am going to replace both as recommened in the FSM, but need to know if I should buy the 92-95 EG Si Clutch master and slave cylinder? Or 92-95 EG Si master and DelSol Vtec B series slave? Or the DelSol Vtec B series clutch master and slave?
Sorry for the rambling, but I have spent the last 2 days swapping engines and am a little tired....
So with that said, I am going to replace both as recommened in the FSM, but need to know if I should buy the 92-95 EG Si Clutch master and slave cylinder? Or 92-95 EG Si master and DelSol Vtec B series slave? Or the DelSol Vtec B series clutch master and slave?
Sorry for the rambling, but I have spent the last 2 days swapping engines and am a little tired....
id say get the del sol vtec slave and master just because that is the two cylinders for that engine but it's possible they are the same. could try the omnipower master too if its going performance wise.
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I just got my master out, and it was definately leaking from the seal. I ordered master and slave for 95 DelSol Vtec with the B series. Should have them tomorrow morning, then I will be able to tell if my problems require me pulling the engine and trans out again to replace the clutch kit.
A little history, I pulled my B18B1 engine and trans out Tuesday, to swap in my B16A engine/GSR trans. I fired it up this morning for the first time and the car wouldn't go into gear while running. I can shift through all the gears while the engine is off. If I leave it in gear, depress the clutch and start the car, you can feel the clutch dragging, like the car is trying to move even though the clutch is depressed. So once I replace the bad hydraulics, if that doesn't slove the problem, than my buddy gave me a bad ITR clutch kit, so out it comes.
A little history, I pulled my B18B1 engine and trans out Tuesday, to swap in my B16A engine/GSR trans. I fired it up this morning for the first time and the car wouldn't go into gear while running. I can shift through all the gears while the engine is off. If I leave it in gear, depress the clutch and start the car, you can feel the clutch dragging, like the car is trying to move even though the clutch is depressed. So once I replace the bad hydraulics, if that doesn't slove the problem, than my buddy gave me a bad ITR clutch kit, so out it comes.
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I am pissed if it is the clutch, but in his defense, it came out of a 1997 ITR swap that he just bought. He pulled the clutch/flywheel out before he droppped it in his car. I got the parts for free, so all I am out is labor to pull the engine again if the bad hydraulics don't fix it. I figured I would troubleshoot my way towards the clutch, that's how I found the leaking clutch master and the slave was leaking too. It sure beats pulling the engine and clutch, only to find out that the hydraulics are bad...
Will know tomorrow if I have to pull it again.
Will know tomorrow if I have to pull it again.
FWIW, I'm sure we used a new D series slave cylinder when we put the GRS tranny on our D16z6. I paid $19.00 for it at Advance Auto parts. Bleed the system and it was fine with 586whp.
I think they are the same.
I think they are the same.
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IMO, it's way easier to pull the entire engine/trans assembly, than trying to seperate the trans from the engine, still in the engine bay. I mean it's maybe an extra 45 min labor to remove the driverside engine mount, exhaust, throttle cable and torque mount. Plus the few extra bolts, wiring harness, etc. It only takes me 2.5-3 hrs to pull the engine by myself.
IMO, it's way easier to pull the entire engine/trans assembly, than trying to seperate the trans from the engine, still in the engine bay. I mean it's maybe an extra 45 min labor to remove the driverside engine mount, exhaust, throttle cable and torque mount. Plus the few extra bolts, wiring harness, etc. It only takes me 2.5-3 hrs to pull the engine by myself.
.
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I might have to try it tomorrow, if I need to. Never have dropped just the trans, so it would be a first for me.
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