I have done a couple searches on the topic, but havent had much luck. The swap itself went smoothly, no problems, everything made sense and went the way it should. However when I went to start it it wont stay running unless I give it a little gas, and it seems to be misfiring/running rough. After it runs for a secound it throughs code 16(fuel injector). Power seems to be getting to the injectors, and the injectors click when they get power. I even tried another set of injectors, but still the same result. The swap is on an '89 crx dx, d15b2. I'm using the d16a6 intake manifold and injectors, along with a pm6 ecu and resistor box. I soldered my connections and used heatshrink tubing, I checked them again too. It also seems to possibly be running rich. Any input is appreciated, thanks.

 

double check your wiring...as for the code 16 try swapping main relays and run some fuel injection cleaner
http://www.angelfire.com/d20/hcivic88/dx-siwiring.html

 

Did you swap tps wires? The 2 outside wired need to be switched for mpfi swap because dual point reads different

 

I checked my wiring and connections several times, but everything seems to go where it should. Ya, I planned on putting some seafoam in the gas tank when I got it running. lol. I'm guna try to get ahold of another distributor and ecu, just to make sure they arent the problem, and I will have to try the main relay too. Already swapped the two wires on the TPS.

One thing that is puzzleing is getting the wires from the distributor to the car matched up, not the blue/green and blue/yellow to the ecu, but the other five. My friend that is more knowledgeable about automotive wiring has been helping me, and matched the wires up by what they do in the distributor. Because we havent been able to find a diagram that has the same color wires going out of the distributor, as what I have. We have changed some of the wires to try and match what some of the diagrams say, but the car deffinitely doesnt like it when theyre moved around.

 

Make sure the plug on each injector is secure. My buddy's old 4 door had a loose connection on the injector plug and it threw a code + ran like ****.

If that doesn't work, try a different resistor box.

 

I just did this same swap on a ported and polished D15b2 head! It turned out awesome! Did u use new gaskets? Make sure you follow your wiring to a t! It can be very easy to mess things up if you hurry thru it. I knew nothing of hondas when I got mine, but thru the web and this site i have learned soooo much. I was very intimidated with most of the instructions on this swap, but I went ahead and did it, and just told myself to do one step, one wire at a time, I also made sure to get new gaskets, even though others may tell you to use the old ones. When I was done I was scared to fire it up, I did, and it purred like a kitten, and wow what difference it made! I too was a little confused on the distributer wiring especially the white wires, there are two white wires and in everybodys directions it says to match up the thicker to the thicker of the two--in my case they were exactly the same size by a micrometer, so i just took a guess, obviously i got it right, cuz it ran and is crazy fast now. Also if i remember right on the fuel injector wiring there is a green that goes to red and then also vice versa, double check your instructions. Good luck!!

 

Ive been into Hondas for awhile now, and wasnt too intimidated by the instructions, having done more difficult tasks. But I did use new gaskets and hoses, and soldered connections. I went slow and spent most of sunday taking my time, and I had read through the instructions many times previous weeks before, untill I had a day off and all my parts to do the swap. I also was confused by the two white wires that are unmentioned in instructions. I have tried them both ways, but still no luck. One of my accuentances that is very familiar with the swap is going to fix it for me this week end.

 

I unfortunately swapped it back to dpfi today because I need to be able to drive it, atleast untill I can get my problem figured out, I plan on possibly just buying a new distributor and possibly ecu. However when I got it swapped back it is throwing code 4 (cank position sensor)and appears to be in limp mode, and of course it isnt really driveable again. I checked my distributor wires at the dist. and at the ecu, but everything seems correct. Any advice on how to possibly get this fixed so it will atleast be driveable with dpfi is appreciated.

 

i have both the complete a6 dizzy and pm6 ecu for sale in my thread below for in case you need them...!!!