A/C wasnt blowing cold at all. Put freeon in the system and it works good.

but I noticed, In the day it doesnt seem to work, I mean it feels like its blowing cold if you put your hand on the vent.

At night time, it works so well I actually get cold (it takes alot to get me cold)

What's the deal with this? Compressor going out? a/c fan seems to work.... I don't know crap about a/c systems, this is the first time I have ever had it in my life.

 

A/C dehumidifies and removes heat from the air as it passes through the evaporator, which is located in the ducting after the blower motor. That's why you want a car on the cabin recirculate mode, and not outside air, for max ac. That way, the evaporator has air going back through it that's already been cooled.

I see you're in Florida. What are the average daytime and nighttime temps right now? If it's 90 during the day and 70 at night, that's a huge difference in how well the system needs to work to blow cold air.

What year/make/model is your car? It sounds to me like you used the ac recharge cans from your local parts store. How'd you do it?

Also, watch the compressor while the car is running on max ac. The compressor pulley has an electromagnetic clutch that let's it cycle on/off even though the belt spins over it constantly. What is it doing? Is it running all the time? If it cycles on/off, how long is it on, how long off?

 

MM&Y of car?

Please tell me you did not use redtec or durateck or anything but R12, [pre94] or R134a, [94-up] refrigerant in your system.

The symptoms are of an overcharged system, overcharging will result in high head pressure and poor cooling, more pronounced during the day as condenser will not work as well, you can confirm this by running cold water with, garden hose, over condenser with A/C running, if vent temp. drops, [A/C works better] you have high head pressure resulting in poor cooling.

You can get an idea of how well the compressor is working by checking the temp. of the discharge and suction lines coming off the compressor, after running for a few min. one line will be hot, [caution] the other will be cold, if compressor is working well one will be very hot and the other will be very cold.

As seanbev24 asks, what is the compressor doing, does it "cycle"? 94

 

well it's a 2000 Toyota Corrola

I did use an A/c recharge can. The gauge reads that it is properly filled with freaon, I used 134a

 

Using a gauge on a DIY can is not very accurate, it also does not put the system into a vacuum, very important to remove any moisture in the system, a min 45min. @ 30Hg is needed to insure any moisture is boiled off.

What else was in the can besides R134a, do you have a link to the product?
Do you know how much you put in?
Did you check the temp. of the discharge and suction lines off the compressor? 94

 

I have to agree, a Gauge Manifold set is much more accurate than those little dingy gauges on those DIY cans you find at the local auto parts store.

Those Gauges on those DIY cans are just about as accurate as using "Test Strips" rather than "Test Tubes" when checking the water parameters of a fish aquarium...there not.

 

So I took it to a guy and he recharged it for me. Checked the pressures and filled accordingly,
and the A/c still doesnt work worth **** in the day time. He couldnt suspect any leaks. He didnt vac the lines though...

 

This could very well be the problem. If the system was opened and filled with Refrigerant without having a deep vacuum pulled on it first, it will never blow cold whether you have the correct amount of Refrigerant in it or not. You pull a deep Vacuum on the system to lower the boiling point of moisture, it then evaporates and the Vacuum Pump can pull it out of the system.

Lets say in normal circumstances a perfect vacuum would be achieved at 29.92 Inches of Mercury(InHg). You need to pull as close to this as possible, you usually will not get that close though.

When I swapped my R12 components out for R134a parts the other week I was able to pull a Vacuum to just over 28InHg. This is deep enough of a vacuum to get the moisture out of the system. If your system hasn't been properly vacuumed then you WILL have excess moisture in the system and the system will never work correctly. Moisture in the system will cause higher than normal pressures in the A/C system. This could make the pressure switch cut the compressor off, problem is, your air has never gotten the chance to get cold.

Also pulling a deep vacuum will usually tell you if you have leaks, If you can't pull a deep vacuum then you have a leak somewhere and need to find it. If you pull a vacuum and get to 28InHg and walk away for an hour to come back and find that the pressure has stabilized towards 0 and is on 15InHg, then you have a leak somewhere.

Figure out if you have any leaks, if you do then fix them, pull a deep vacuum, charge the system(remembering to purge the line or you will put moisture right back in your system) and see where you are at. Once this is done there is no reason not to have cold air unless you have a faulty part such as a bad Compressor. Your Drier may be saturated with moisture now also, if it were my system, I would spend 25 bucks at Advanced Auto on a new Drier.

 

Matt i have done tons of conversions. I found that by flushing the system with fresh 134 at least once. then change dryer, dont over oil, then pull vaccum. So many people have added whatever gas or oil they could to the system. they need a good purge. Sounds wasteful but this method has convinced many that 134 is as good if not better than the coveted r12.
zxgo if he didnt pull a vaccum after telling about your problem,, scammed. ac is a huge money maker. ask to watch next time. Then all matt is spelling out for ya mite make sense. good luck

 

If the guy doesn't have the equipment to pull a vacuum, he shouldn't be doing AC work. Where did you have the work done? What did he use to add refrigerant? What method did he use to check for leaks? Is he even EPA certified to be doing AC work?

A proper AC machine that can remove and recharge r134 also must be able to pull vacuum. I'm wondering if the guy just hooked up a manifold gauge set, and then added refrigerant with the same type of can that you did.

Either way, he didn't do things right and you shouldn't have payed him a dime.

 

Sounds like you are going about the conversion in the correct direction. So many people just charge there old R12 system right up with R134a and have less than desired results. Like you, my Dad has done quite a few R12 to R134a conversions successfully and gotten great lasting performance from the system.

My car however is not a normal so to speak R12 to R134a conversion. I actually found all the R134a parts out of a wrecked 95 Civic for a VERY cheap price. So I then pulled all of my R12 components out of my car and installed all the R134a components. I am now just straight R134a, nothing R12 in my car. Once the car is cooled off I enjoy 35-38 degree F vent temps. My cousin's Civic is a 92 and still has the R12 system, my Dad converted hers and she is also enjoying sub-40 degree vent temps using R134a in an R12 system. Non-Believers may ask if R134a can cool so well in an R12 system(when done correctly) then why did I convert my car to all R134a parts. Answer: My R12 Compressor went bad. I got all the R134a parts for roughly $150. Cheaper than a new Compressor. I did spend $50 total($25 each)on a new Expansion Valve and Dryer.

I have found videos on Youtube of people saying the correct way to convert from R12 to R134a is just to recover any remaining R12 Refrigerant thats in the system and then charge right up with R134a..There should be more steps taken to get life and desired performance out of the conversion IMO.

I also agree with "seanbev24", if the guy that did your A/C work doesn't have a way to pull a deep vacuum on your system. He should NOT be doing ANY A/C work.

 

Moisture is A/Cs worst enemy, a vacuum of as close to 30 Hg as possible for at least 45min. is needed to boil off any moisture in the system, not doing so will cause nothing but problems.

A retrofit requires you do a flush, you must replace O rings, filter/dryer and pressure switch, no other, [working] components need to be replaced.

I also agree that although R134A is not as efficient as R12, 2 - 5 degrees is no big deal, an R12 system is easily capable of pumping out 2 degrees C, [35.6F] out of your vents, [my 89 Dynasty R12 system does] a retrofit to R134a will get you 6-8 degrees C out of the vents, [43-46 degrees F] that will feel ice cold.

We do 2-3 retrofits a week... http://airwolfeautoair.com/ all systems get a flush, filter/dryer, pressure switch and O rings and all sit on vacuum pump for one hour min.

Target vent temp. is 8 degrees C, if customer wants lower temp. we will change the condenser to one specifically for R134a, it can drop vent temp 1-2 more degrees, most customers, [by far] are more then satisfied with the "mini' retrofit. 94

 

charge that bizzle up big dawg

 

Wow their is tons of good info on this thread. hey ol fart i havent done near that many conversions. Thanks for the tip about the condenser. btw the last time i bought r12 it was sold only by the 12 ounce can about $36.00.. When i started ac work i believe it was 99 cents a can.
zx2boost let us know how it goes for ya.

 

I second that on the condenser. I have a 93 EG hatch that did a r134 conversion on. It worked ok, but in Phoenix o.k. just isn't good enough. So, I bought a condenser out of a 96 integra and that got me bouncing off the thermostat 34-38 degrees on hot summer days. A little extra condensing capacity on a r12 to r134 may be overkill on some applications but I think its a real plus especially if the original r12 system had "just enough" to do a good job with r12.

 

Where can you buy a 12oz can of R12????94

 

Napa. last year they had 12oz cans and 30lb. bottles

 

I know they quit making R12 back in 1994 or something. but before that, 1992 i think, they made it illegal to sell... you can have it and use it, but not sell it.

maybe what they're seeing at Napa is R12 replacement. there is one (and only one) place here in town that sells R12 replacement. as i understand it doesn't require a conversion, but it's not really R12.

 

This true. Also an intersting point that many of you may not know, but it is physicly impossible to achieve 30 hg of vaccum on earth. The best that could be done by some scientists with a HUGE vaccum was 29.99hg, something to do with the earths gravity. Google it.

 

Selling R12 is a federal offence, you are not buying R12 from Nappa.

R12 production stopped in 1995, the only R12 still around is what was stockpiled and what is recovered from R12 systems.

After 1994 you could not buy refrigerant, R12 or R134a unless you are certified, Nappa is not selling R12, it sells an R12 "replacement" like Freeze12, [EPA approved as it has no HCs] and RedTeK12a, [not EPA approved for automotive use as it does contain HCs] there are many others, most are just the same thing with other names and most are not EPA approved as they contain HCs, most also contain sealers, [not good for your A/C system].

Do some research, you will find I am right on this. 94

 

Refering to the Mobile Air Conditioning Society aka MACS. revised 7/94 Under the Clean air act Only Section 609 technicians may purchase small cans(less than 20lb) of cfc-12. The sales restriction provision in the Act was intended to discourage "do-it-yourselfers" who may release refridgerant because they lack access to recycling equipment. This restriction will not change after Nov. 14, 1994. The sale of small cans of CFC-12 will always be limited to Section 609 Technicians. In my opinion Some how their seems to be a never ending but very limited existing stock. I have yet to see the law forbidding the sale of r-12 by a retail operation. The paperwork and lack of demand has most commercial auto parts stores to not even mess with it. Very stiff penalties for mishandling of r-12. can be dished out to all involved.

 

I researched for those needing r12 and have all the required licenses the prices have went down. Air Gas can ship 30lb. r-12. $649.00. they also had 12oz cans sold by the case. (no price yet).

 

So I do notcie in the day time, the a/c compressor I hear it click on and off on and off... damn ac works very good at night though! Where should I start, Have the system vaccumed then refilled?

 

If compressor "short cycles" [click on and off on and off] it is a sign of a low refrigerant charge or a defective A/C pressure switch.

Replace A/C pressure switch and recharge with proper amount, [ounces] of refrigerant.94

 

actually I check the system and its TOO full! So ill try and find this pressure switch and do a proper vacume of the system like one mentioned. Like I said, the A/C works VERY WELL at night time! I love the a/c at night!!!!!