Hey thanks for checking my thread!
Okay heres the deal, I drove my 91 accord to another city about an hour and a half drive and didnt see any signs of an over heat or have any issues while on the highway. Right as i exited the highway (with little gas but light wasnt on yet) the car started running rough with low power it seemed to be missing. I gased up and popped the hood and like a dumb a** I started pulling plug wires one at a time to see which cylinder was missing, it was the third from the passenger side left, the wire itself was pretty bad it wouldnt "click" back on the spark head so i pulled the plug right there (wit the motor off lol) and the top was oily from oil outside the plug (the plug was also less than hand tight) anyways i got the plug back in and started it but it was still really rough no change, about 2 mintes later it completely cut off and only cranks over. the oil was a bit low, and the plug and wire were oily, but i think it was from the loose plug. I checked spark from the wires to a grounded piece of metal and they arent sparking i think i smell plenty of fuel but i was at a gas station. im towing the car home tomorrow so ill be able to run out and check any suggestions. Any suggestions are welcome im sure you all know alot more than me. personally i think its the distributor (looks orignial with 270 thousand miles) please help

 

yep change that dizzy or go inside and change the coil

 

thanks man, so i have a little cash....you think i should just by an all distributor? is it a hard to change one? doesnt look like it would be, but im no pro.

 

yeah replace the didtributor it aint hard take the cap off the distributor and mark where the rotor is pointing...position your new one in the same direction and position it back on the motor

 

http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

check it before you drop the cash

 

the 3rd one over on mine was oily, i have a 91. i changed the pcv valve for $2 and checked it every 500 miles or so about 5 times. no more oil so far. oil in the chamber can only be a few other things and they are not cheap or easy to fix.

 

okay, so i took out the coil and its good, im about to put it back on and pull a plug to see if there is a fire and i didnt notice when i checked with a screw driver....maybe its the fuel pump. how loud is the pump she you turn the ignition forward? i dont hear anything. Ill let you know if i still dont have fire...if i do ill try and figure out a way to check the gas in the lines....any ideas of how to do this?

 

are you throwing a check engine light??

 

Since there is no spark I would check fuel pressure.

 

???^^^^

no spark = electrical = distributor...

 

yeah spark has anything to do with fuel!

 

I should include a disclaimer in my posts; "All posts by this user have the possibility of including a tad of humor".

By the way, no-spark doesn't automatically mean a fault in the distributor. Keep in mind that the timing signal from the PCM to the ignitor is required for the ignitor to ground the ignition coil. If you have this signal and the ignitor isn't grounding the coil, the ignitor is likely failing.

A test light on the ground wire from the ignition coil primary circuit can show you if the ignitor is providing a ground path.

 

**********UPDATE******* okay got everything put back together, pulled a plug and checked for spark and not a ddddamn thing, when i pulled that plug i smelled a load of fuel hitting the cylinder. I had the coil pack tested and it was fine, i checked ohms through my current ignitor and a brand new one at the store and the show the same resistance.....i need to know if that means anything though, i have heard ignitors cant be tested that way. thanks for all of your help so far guys. maybe this info will be of some help

 

i had a buddy tell me that his accord did the same **** and it was the alternator, this makes no sense to me because my car is turning over and never went dead on electricity. my check engine light is fine, i hear the main relay click when it goes off, ecu is good....im just so stummped i thought i would put the whole alternator possibility out there

 

swap it out with a new distributor, if its not the distributor....take it back. just dont tell the parts store that you installed it, just say that you were dumb and figured out the problem was a fuse or some other good lie, probably dont want to take it back to the same exact person whom you bought it from as well. they wont take it back if you say that you installed it, even for a second.

thats what i do for just about everything. try it out, if it fixes the problem, keep it, if it doesnt, take it back.

 

check to make sure your spark plug wires are pluged into the correct ports on the cap. i wouldnt even say it, but ive actually seen people not put them back correctly.

 

Put a test light from the postive terminal of the battery to the negative terminal on the primary coil of the ignition coil. If the test light doesn't blink when you crank the engine over, the igniter is probably bad. If the light blinks, the coil is probably bad. This is assuming, of course, that your secondary ignition system is ok.

 

Right on thanks im going to try swapping the ignitor, and i try a coil anyway even if the dipshit at the store says its good. maybe he knows maybe not. ill keep you all updated