Hi, ok so ive rebuilt my d16z6 and im getting ready to prime the new engine and get it started this weekend, im going from OBD2 to 1 and i havent ordered the new ECU yet.

my question is, can i start up the new motor with my OBD2 computer and will it run ok? im only letting it idle for about 30 mins but if it wont run ok ill just wait till i get an OBD1 ECU and conversion harness.

im anxious to get this motor broken in and running but if itll mess something up then ill wait

 

ttt

 

so ur just using a conversion harness? If u plan on using a ecu for a y8 Im sure it would run fine...or really any other civic ecu would at least idle and run the motor decently. I wouldnt b doing any full throttle pulls unless u had the y8 ecu. U dont want to be dumping a **** load of fuel in there with new rings..

 

well there is other sensors that a obd2 comp will look for it i will prob run like complete ***

jsut put in said motor and hook up only sensors that motor askes for

left overs let hang on harness ie: knock sensor and others, then get a jumper harness and a virgin p28 comp

 

oh yeah did forget about the knock sensor...what about the crank position sensor? they have those too? It still should idle fine and drive ok but still would recommend getting the p28 to properly break it in on full throttle runs

 

i plan on ordering an OBD1 chipped ECU and the OBD2 -> 1 conversion harness from phearable.net i just dont have the money to do it yet. the car used to have a y7 non-vtec and im going to a z6 vtec.

i blew the y7 back in september and ive been spending all my money since rebuilding the motor and im starting to get impatient because im so close to being done lol as long as it will idle fine for 30 or so minutes id like to use the OBD2 ecu just to get the motor primed and broken in until i can get the other ecu. im not gonna be going to full throttle at all.

also ive gotten bigger injectors, i believe stock is 240 or 260cc, ive upgraded to 360cc and an AEM fuel rail and 255lph fuel pump. will it run like **** with those or would i be ok?

like i said i wont be doing any full throttle pulls

 

also im not worried about a CEL. im almost certain it will be on anyway

 

I would not even start it with out a obd1 ecu and jumper i am just picky about my stuff

 

to correct myself i bought a Z6 and rebuilt that. did not build the y7

 

i dont plan on driving it until i get the OBD1 ecu. its not even registered, insured, or inspected yet.

 

with those injectors u would completely flood the motor even with the right ecu. Your going to have to get something to dial that back. WHat kind of ems r u plan on running...not the stock p28 right. You can get a chip but itl still b a base map. WHat u really need is a wideband and some sort of fuel controller like vafc or a comlete ems like s300 or chrome. sell the fuel rail and put it towards the wideband and ems

 

or u could just put the stock injectors back in and run the y7 computer. Full throttle is whats needed to break that in properly so ul need the right computer

 

its acually gonna run rich. i know mine did with a P2E ecu(dx) on a z6.it will start up without a obd1 ecu but because you wont have a knock sensor or a crank positioning sensor it probbaly wont rev over 3k with out the crank sensor on it. you would have to swap your y8 oilpump/pick up,pan and the lower timing gear from the y8 onto it. goodluck but i wouldnt run the motor unless you had a ecu for it.

 

ok ill do what i can to get the stock injectors back in... ill have to rob the seals off my aftermaket injectors.

i was told to let it idle 15-30 mins and rev the engine a little every 5-6 mins

 

run the z6 injectors even if u have a friend with b series injectors they are the same... 240cc https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/fuel-injector-size-question-63538/

 

yep many different theories out there on engine break in. Of course ul need to let it idle a while, while u check for fuel leaks, water leaks, do timing, fill water, etc... I think I usually followed endyns procedure but was now leaning towards " get it running then go do some pulls".

 

ok so the seals on my aftermarket injectors wont fit on the stock ones... if i cant find any to fit the stock ones am i f***ed? or will the aftermarket injectors be ok?

 

We already told u ten times ur 360cc or whatever is way to large and will wash the rings out and u definitly dont wont that on a fresh motor it will b ruined. The stock ecu thinks u have stock injectors so its going to open ur 360 (which are 30% larger) inj the same amount of time as ur stock so ul get 30% more fuel and will b stupid rich and wash the rings out. Run e85 on those aftermarket inj and call it a day haha

 

i plan on breaking it in with race fuel anyway. but ok i wont start it until i can find seals for the stock injectors.

Sr420Det i am taking your advice but just for the sake of not being that educated about it, my head is port/polished, i have 1mm oversized valves and an aftermarket intake manifold. would this not help balance the air/fuel ratio if i were to run my 360cc injectors?

 

If ur motor had a mass airflow sensor it could sense changes in airflow and apply proper fuel and that would b only if u had the right size injectors. But u dont have the right size inj and ur motor measures airflow via map, rpm, ect so it will have no clue that ur head is pp'd, u have oversized valves, intake mani etc... Ur added airflow will not make up for that size injector. R u planning on tuning this thing? Turbo? Nitrous? any power adders?

 

Proper engine management is the most important thing to do when building a motor. U need to know that ur air fuel ratios are on point, especially!! if ur breaking in a motor. The only way to do that with bigger inj is to have a wideband (so u can actually see what ur a/f ratios r) and some way to adjust fuel. Like a adjustable fuel pressure regulator (worse thing), chipped ecu base map (u will have to let the person chipping ur ecu know what size injectors u have), some sort of fuel controller like a apex-i vafc (variable air fuel controller), or a complete engine management system like crome, ectune, hondata s100-300, etc...

Or u could just put a stock ecu with stock injectors and know ur air fuel ratios r on point..

 

I do have an air:fuel gauge, says it works with a narrowband o2 sensor. I wouldnt think its as accurate as a wideband sensor but its somethin.

why is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator the worse thing? a friend of mine that has a turbo z6 says i need one lol

and im ordering the OBD2->1 conversion harness and ecu from phearable.net, they take into account injector size, i get to set the rev limiter, vtec rpm, etc.

 

with the mods you have those larger injectors just aren't needed. now since you already have them i mean you could go ahead and use them. you will have effectively a canned tune for larger injectors and it won't run to its full potential unless you have it tuned somewhere. and with the mods you have, it's just overkill. i'd just run stock injectors and be done with it.

also, narrowbands are basically useless. they are only good for a light show, and not even a very good one at that.

 

u actually could use a narrow band with a vafc or something, but u still need to be able to adjust fuel and a adj fpr wont give the fuel u need across the rev range. Ur boy is prob on stock inj (if he doesnt have any other way of controlling fuel) and is only takin advantage of the fpr once boost kicks in. narrow bands only read between like 14.5 and 15. they have a very narrow band width and are used by manufactures cause they r cheap and only tell weather the afr is at stoich, leaner, or richer. If u knew how much fuel it took to get u from 14.5 to 15 (on a vafc every point counts as .5% of the original fuel table), theortically u could adjust the whole fuel table with a vafc or something but would b super sketchy and prob just wouldnt work to well. I would assuming tuning basically a stock z6 this way would b acheivable. U should just cough up the 220 it takes for a real wideband and u can read from 10:1 air fuel ratio all the way up to 19 or 20:1.

 

ok well im startin to think it wont be ready to start up this weekend. so just to go over everything i need to get the stock injectors, stock fuel rail, put back in the stock fuel pump, wideband o2 sensor

if an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is not good what should i use?

and would the gauge i have work with a wideband or do i have to get a new gauge?