I recently had a d16y7 motor in my 96 honda civic. I swapped it with a d16z6 motor using the same OBD2A wire harness. My first Cel code was #9, (CFK). So i went on the FF squad thread on how to bypass it. No more CFK code, but a CEL code #4 came up which was the CKP. I have searched all day on how to fix this problem and still nothing. I have a OBD2A wire harness, p28 ecu, obd2a to obd1 jumper harness. What i did with the distrubutor was that i took the guts out of the y7 dizzy and put them in my z6 dizzy case, that way the z6 case will line up to the head. The car starts, drives, But idles rough at 1500 RPM, and theirs a rev limiter at 3500 rpm! PLEASE CAN SOMEONE HELP!!!! All i could find is just replacing dizzy, replacing ckp sensor, look for a short.

 

bumppp can anyone help me?

 

Try putting the guts back in the D16Z6 distributor that were originally in it since that is the right distributor for the P28 ECU. I know the plugs are different between the two distributors, but you're either going to have to change the plugs on the distributor or the plugs on the engine harness.

 

i dont think thats the problem, when i had my old d16y7 in the car, i was running a p28

 

bumpppppppppppppp, anyone know how to fix this problem?

 

Well let's start with the basics. OBD1 did not have a "CFK" code, there was no CFK (Crankshaft Fluctuation) sensor. As for "crank" (really distributor) codes there were three: 4 CKP (CranKshaft Position) sensor circuit fault, 8 TDC (Top Dead Center) sensor circuit fault, & 9 CYP (CYlinder Position) sensor circuit fault. I don't know what you did to clear your DTC 9 "CFK" (really CYP if you had the P28 in at that time), but if after getting rid of code 9 you then set code 4, I'd say you didn't fix anything but just "moved" the problem. Double check all you're sensors & wiring & sensor orientation inside the distributor. The order of the sensors is as follows: top = CYP, middle = CKP, bottom = TDC. The sensor wire colors are as follows: CYP = white & orange, CKP = blue/yellow & blue/green, TDC = white/blue & orange/blue. The Crankshaft Fluctuation sensor on the block of the Y7 (and Y8) at the crankshaft gear sends a different signal than any of the sensors in the distributor. If you are using that one as you crank sensor (or in place of any of the sensors in the distributor) then you definitely will set a code. If you swapped some wires around on the harness, then I recommend putting everything back to how it was and addressing the real problem instead of trying to bypass it.

 

all i did was create a 2 wire IACV and wired Vtec... I will double check on the CKP sensor, but in the distrubutor, i used the y7 guts, does the y7 dizzy have a ckp sensor in it? if so which one is it.

 

Y7 distributor guts are identical to Z6 distributor guts, literally the only difference is the plug(s)

 

bumppppp, still trying to find out the problem..

 

Found this on another thread recently:

http://www.d-series.org/forums/gener...th-busted.html

Run the correct distributor to the ECU, in your case put back the Z6 guts in the Z6 distributor housing since you're running a P28 ECU. Technically speaking, the D15B VTEC and Y8 distributor would/should work also.

 

use a z6 or a y8 dizzy. the y8 dizzy will onnly have the top bolt that will line up for mounting. you would also need to ream out the slot for this to work but it saves you time and 30 bux for a rywire conversion harness for obd1-obd2 dizzy. its not a vtec dizzy they may look the same but thier not.

 

having same problem on my 94 civic ex mine wont rev past 3k and cel code is 4 also. so maybe we just have to replace the ckp sensor unless someone knows a better solution? i have a p28 ecu also and alot of ppl with this problem are using the same but not sure if thats even a factor..

 

i tried to wire the z6 dizzy to the obd2a plug, wouldnt start, i just put my y7 guts back into the z6 housing and worked... I think it would be better to buy a z6 harness.. **** it.... my car drives so slow, its not even funny, LIMP MODE SUCKSSS, when my car was off limp mode for 2 minutes, it drove a lot faster

 

All you need to do is keep the shaft of the Z6 distributor in the Z6 distributor, you can leave the guts (sensor pickups) of the Y7 distributor in the Z6 housing. However, maybe one of your Y7 sensors (the CKP sensor) is done. Have you measured the resistance yet to see if it's in spec? If you want to try swapping again, I can give you the wire colors & terminal locations to put the Z6 wires in the Y7 plug.

Z6: C1= 8 pin connector (7 wires), C2= 2 pin connector, terminal location not necessary since putting into Y7 OBD2A connector
TDC: += orange/blue, -= white/blue (C1)
CYP: += orange, -= white, (C1)
CKP: += blue/green, -= blue/yellow, (C1)
battery power: black/yellow (C2)
ECU signal: yellow/green (C1)
RPM signal: blue (C2)

Y7 OBD2A: one connector
distributor connector:
TDC: += orange/blue, T3; -= white/blue, T7
CKP: += orange, T4; -= white, T8
CYP: += light blue, T2; -= light blue/yellow, T6
battery power: black/yellow, T10
ECU signal: yellow/green, T1
RPM singal: blue, T9
engine harness connector:
TDC: += green, T3; -= red, T7
CKP: += yellow, T4; -= black, T8
CYP: += blue, T2; -= white, T6
battery power: black/yellow, T10
ECU signal: yellow/green, T1
RPM signal: blue, T9

I hope that with this info you can figure out which wires go where based on the engine harness connector being in original order. You'll see that the only wire color difference is for the CYP sensor. However the engine harness connector wire colors don't seem to have any rhythm to them. So anyway, I hope that helps.

 

thanks for the info man! i appreciate it! When i had the z6 dizzy, all the wire colors matched up with the obd2a plug..... i just matched up, like the colors were dead on exactly the same color....stilll no start... i put the y7 back in with the original wires and it started right up.. How about leaving the y7 plugs/sensors in, but changing the z6 shaft into it? will that make a difference? since i heard the z6 shaft goes into a different direction than the y7 one..

 

That will work. I had to do that before building a distributor for a DOHC ZC due to where the holes were drilled in the shaft.

 

so the z6 shaft and the y7 shaft are different? but if i did change the y7 shaft to the z6 shaft with the y7 sensors, how would that make a difference from turning the CEL off?

 

Yes, or so i'm told, I don't have a Y7 distributor here right now or i'd check.

It wont, it just means your ignition timing wont be way off. Thats assuming the sensor is bad, it may also be on because of the shaft is screwing up your ignition timing.

 

Started up the car, no limp mode, no check engine light!! car was driving so good, but then that stupid CEL came on and limp mode was activated, but it kind of looks like its hard to swap out the shafts... if worse comes to worse, ill be picking up a z6 harness using a z6 dizzy, also... Converting my y7 harness to a z6 harness is plain and simple, anyone have a diagram on how to connect it to the green plug that controls the fuel pump ect..

 

switched y7 shaft to the z6 shaft, no bogging, runs a lot better, but still CEL code 4 :[, my idea is just switching the z6 oil pump to the y7 oil pump, shimed and ported, putting the crank sensor on.