well i'm FINALLY getting some time on a real track! in two weeks i'll be attending my first hpde and wanted some pointers for car prep. i'll be driving my stock del sol s.. yeah yeah, i know it's weak but it'll still be fun! =P should i run on my street tires (ecsta 712's) or my v700's? i'm also planning on ford hd fluid but i'm torn with which pads to buy.. should i go p+ or xp's? i've heard tons of good things about both.. i guess it doesn't really matter since they're wear items and they'll be replaced after a few events anyways but i thought i'd ask.. either way, the pads will be for the track only so squeekyness, dust, etc is of no concern. should i also look into a set of rotors to go with the new pads? i've heard that some compounds don't get along very well..

i've read all about bringing food, suntan lotion, a chair, and gallons & gallons of water as well but if there's anything else you can think of lemme know..

 

if this place is out in the open, i suggest a canopy to provide shade. I was at speedtrials couple weeks ago and it was probably like 100in the shade.

Have fun and dont forget a CAMERA!

 

i got my new master cylinder today from acuraautomotiveparts.net (yaaay) but i dont have very much ate super blue left. i cant find any place here in charlottesville that sells super blue or ate gold. bojangs had mentioned Ford HD fluid, and i've heard some others mention it as well. is this very comparable to super blue for use in hpde's? and just so i dont get confused, we're talking about oem Ford brake fluid, right? so i can get it at any ford dealership? sorry for some of these dumb questions, but as a former ford driver, i have a hard time believing that they did something right... (haha, no offense to any ford owners...)

oh yeah, and bojangs, bring a cooler full of ice for those gallons of water and a towel you can soak in the melted ice... the best feeling after getting out of that hot car from the hot track is an ice cold towel on your neck. i've got the p+'s, and i think they were excellent on the track.

-brian

 

P+ should do fine, and are streetable (barely) so you can swap them at home.

Ford HD is ok, as it ATE SuperBlue and Motul 600.

Start on your 712s. Do two or three events on them, then step up if you like. It's safer and you will learn to drive at the limits easier/faster. Plus, you'll appreciate the V700s that much more when you start using them on track. I wish I had been given this advice when I started - I jumped right onto Haek Blues and V700s in a caged racecar - it tool quite a while for me to be comfortable at the edge of traction.

 

Well since this is your first track event I don't think you really need anything. Just make sure to check your rotors for any problems, make sure that you have a good amount of pad left, also make sure that you have a good amount trend on your tires, and also make sure the rest of the car is okay (too much to list). I would also use your street tires versus the v700's. The idea is get a better understanding of the car stock (as stock as possible) before you do anything to it. That way when add items to your car you'll know what the affects are, but that's just my opinion..........

 

If you have the time, drop me a line at 877-562-9237, and we can review your options after discussing it in detail and considering all variables.

-Andie


[Modified by cobalt, 12:57 AM 9/12/2002]

 

hahahahah.. that's funny andie, i was actually plannin on calling you tomorrow! you'll be hearing from me man..

yeah, i know excately what you guys are saying about the 712's vs. the v700's. i did the same with auto-x'ing.. started with the street tires trying to learn the limits and then moved to the r-comps because i felt like the 712's were holding me back.. ok, well i guess it makes sense to do the same at the track.. learn to drive before upgrading.. it's funny, i always tell people that but i guess i just needed to hear it myself.. =P

thanks guys

 

After a couple of hpdes, when you really get hooked, it's probably a good idea to invest in a dedicated set of front pads and rotors just for the track. With a little practice, you can swap them in no time.

I'd agree with everyone about starting on street tires. I've done 7 events (12 days) since I started last Sept., and am still on street tires (currently Azenis). I feel I can still learn a bit about handling at the limit before I move to R's. Maybe next year.

As well as the things you listed, bring tools and spares. Oil, brake fluid, pads, maybe rotors, fan belts, etc. Nothing more disappointing than watching everyone else run while you're sidelined because you need a part.

 

I agree. Also change your fluids. Oil, coolant, and brake. For brake fluid alot of the guys suggested Valvoline SynPower Brake fluid. Also might want to use Redline Water Wetter for your coolant.

 

yeah Maengelito, from what i've heard you just walk up to the parts counter at a ford dealership and ask for the heavy duty brake fluid.. it should have around 520 degree dry boiling point so you may wanna check that before you leave..

i haven't really looked around for any other fluids yet.. is ATE superblue/gold pretty tough to find? what about valvoline synpower? these are both fluids everyone speaks very highly of so i thought i'd ask.. can they be found at napa or similar or do they need to be ordered?

 

The ATE can usually be found at BMW (or Euro) aftermarket shops.
The Motul is stocked by 90% of motorcycle (crtoch rocket) service shops.
The Valvoline is a good street fluid, I don't know it's boiling points and don't know anybody who uses it in a race car.
The Castrol SRF is great, but twice the cost of the above brands.

 

Here's some info...

http://www.soloracer.com/trackguide.html
http://www.soloracer.com/trackchecklist.html

Have fun!!

 

Here is a list I have from my notes:

ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:550F -- WET:290F --- Ford Heavy Duty
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610


ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3
DRY:550F -- WET:290F --- Ford Heavy Duty
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF


Cobalt has the following prices:

ATE SUPER BLUE RACING $9.95/LITER
ATE TYP200 GOLD $9.95/LITER
AP RACING SUPER 600 $18.95/500ML
MOTUL RBF 600 $10.95/500ML
CASTROL SRF $69.95/LITER

Additionally, purchases of two axle sets (front and rear, for example) at your regular Honda-Tech.com discount level (ranging from 5% to 10%), receive one free bottle of Ate Super Blue Racing or Typ200 Gold.

HTH... -Andie



[Modified by cobalt, 2:26 PM 9/12/2002]

 

Good info Andie

 

any advice on psi for the 712's? i ran 40f/36,37r cold when i auto-x'ed them so i'm thinking knock off about 2-3psi each and go from there.. does that sound about right?

 

Darn. I'd buy that just for the bling factor of the name. I can see it in F&F II:

Cobalt Andie: Can I help you?
Street Racer: I need brake fluid...quick. NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610. And make that two bottles. I got a lotta stoppin' to do tonight.

 

That's very funny, because I might have the NSX in F&F II tomorrow...doing filming down here in SoFla...we'll see. In any case...the Neo is good fluid...no one knows about it, and the independent lab tests turn out very good data. In general, for the numbers stated as wet and dry bp's, for the major manufacturers, they are overstated byup to 10% across the board.

-Andie

 

Here is some great info as far as car prep and what to bring to the track... have fun!

http://www.chinmotorsports.com/faq/faq.asp