Ok guys totally noob at building engine so help the guy out.

The head is currently off the car and Im wondering what I need to replace before putting everything back together. The head is getting a valve job done. Only thing I can think off is a new headgasket.

This is a lsvtec with b16 head.

I also got the IM off should I get a new gasket, this one has some tear on some corners.

Any good advice would be great, this will be for a daily not track monster or anything I just want it to be reliable.

thanks

 

Timing belt and water pump.

 

Water pump absolutely. Timing belt if it is not within specs ( I would do it anyways). ALL gaskets. It will not hurt to start with fresh gaskets all
over.

 

what they said timing belt, water pump, head gasket SET, plugs and wires, maybe a distributor cap and rotor, and misc lines that are cracked or shotty, hose clamps, etc.

 

Yeah. Little **** makes big difference. Cracked vacuum lines, broken clamps, all rubber, metal, and paper gaskets, and otherwise. Even liquid adhesive gaskets, etc. Might not be bad to start witha fresh thermostat, plugs, wires, everything. All new fluids as well

 

i would have the valve guides replaced too and get new head bolts. arp if you want but stock replacements would be fine still. dont forget the timing belt tensioner as well. cam seals too should be replaced. i would go with a dealer head gasket and timing belt and dist cap and rotor. other gaskets can be fel-pro parts. and of course all the above. i know the valve guids may not be "needed" but i once had a valve job on a customers car done with the HG and then the head had issues shortly after. i found out that honda guides dont last too long like their blocks do, so now i dont chance nothing. i do the valve guides too with a HG replacement now

 

wow fast reply's thanks guys.

About the head boats its currently sitting on arp head bolts, cant I just reuse the head nuts?

 

No. Once you put that much torque into Something like that, the metal composition loses it's integrity. Any time you remove a head, use fresh studs and bolts.

 

100% get new bolts...studs...whatever you prefer, but get new ones

 

Whaaaaaat? Don't listen to this ****, new HG, water pump, and timing belt and you're fine.

 

let us know if it leaks again from listening to this guy in the above post.

 

You're an idiot. It is not necessary to replace the head studs.

 

yeah and your too cheap to replace simple bolts

 

I'm sorry I don't go around spending money where it is totally not necessary and use it elsewhere where it is needed. /internet argument

 

money spent in good places like this goes even further when you do a turbo or somethin else

 

head bolts are TTY bolts (torque to yield)

meaning once you torque them to the specified torque, the bolt is stretched and once you unbolt them, you cannot reuse them (or torque them to the original ft/lb)

so no, everytime you unbolt your head fromt he block, you need new studs/bolts to be able to torque them to the proper torque

edit: i've heard people reusing arp bolts a few times before its time to retire them

 

I would NEVER use the same head bolts twice. After years and years of heating and expanding, cooling and contracting, on top of being put under that much torque pressure for all those years, old head bolts or studs+nuts don't stand a cold chance in hell against new studs+nuts or new studs.

 

according to the factory helm manual you can reuse them, and that manual is pretty liberal concerning replacing various bolts on the car. It even explains how to oil and clean the head bolts before reinstall.

moving on, I just did the headgasket on my eg six months ago, I replaced

timing belt/water pump/cam seal(oem)
intake and throttle body gasket(make sure surfaces are very clean and don't gouge them, use soft scraper only or liquid gasket remover.)oem
exhuast manifold gasket(felpro)
tstat(oem)
heater hoses and any other coolant hoses that looked bad(oem)
distributor oring
both vtec solenoid gaskets(oem)
valve cover gasket kit(oem)
pcv valve
valve adjustment(must be done on cold engine)
oem headgasket
head checked for trueness and cut(it was warped as the lady must have let the car get pretty hot, which is why I replaced the rest of the paper gaskets because they were crispy)

It's been 7,000 miles and the car is running really good, as you can see from the list above I did not replace the head bolts(and it obviously wasn't due to cheapness). I did everything with the helms and it does not mention needing to replace them, and trust me if it was necessarry it would be in there. It is very important to be sure the bolts(threads) and the holes in the block are clean, and to torque the bolts properly in steps.