just wounding if i should do a 6-point 8-point 12-point.
and what kind of pipe and 2 1/2 or 2 1/4 piping. and if anyone has pics. or blueprint specs.
thanks

 

Depends on what type & what org. you are racing with. Check out the NASA rules @ http://www.nasaproracing.com. I believe SCCA is similar. You better make sure before you dump money into a cage, though.

 

this link may help once you find out whats legal

http://www.davesport.com/specs.htm

 

Dave's page really only compares raw materials and doesn't get at what is legal, in terms of structure and tubing size. You do need to start by looking at the requirements of the racing organization that you'll be running with but there is some logic to also considering the requirements for other series as well. You may want to run somewhere else or have the option of selling the car to someone who does.

The caged Acura shell that was in a post here is a great example of something that isn't legal to run most sanctioning bodies and becomes next to worthless on the market...

Kirk

 

I purchased a autopower roll-bar today from IOport. This is what I was told when I called. At the end of the year (2002) scca will change their rules to only allow DOM tubed cages to be built. ERW cages can be grandfathered in but all new cages must be made out of DOM tubing.

 

thanks

 

here, let me answer for you then.
1) what do you need a cage for
you dont need a cage. will not help you in autox. its called extra weight and skull crushing steel. a modest rollBAR is more than enough.

2) are you going to build it yourself
you shouldnt bother if its your first time. just buy a kit like autopower.

3) you sure youre not interested in a bolt in cage
yes you should be.

4) do you know what a bolt in cage is
http://www.ioportracing.com/rollbar.htm

as for blueprints, there are none. they are built rather simply quite frankly. just gotta meet minimum safety specifications, but thats for actual racing in accordance to your sanctioning body and class, otherwise, you can do whatever you want.




[Modified by Tyson, 1:40 PM 9/12/2002]

 

it's for autocross. and i want to build it my self. i'm just trying to find some sort of blueprint or something

 

Are you sure your up to the task? What brand of bender do you have? What brand and power welder do you have? Do you know how to Mig or Tig weld? How are you going to notch the ends? Do you know what ERW or DOM mean?

Unless you have a super fast open cockpit car - don't do it! You will bump your head! In more ways than one.

I'm not trying to be harsh - I just am!
This is something that takes time to figure out and you would be way ahead of the game if you went to a cage builder to observe what is needed. Unless you already have the above mentioned equipment, you are in for a $4000 surprise!

By the way. Cages are made of tubing, not pipe! You don't bend tubing with a pipe bender! And you don't use tubing to plumb your house! That's another can of worms.
Just my $4500 opinion!
Good luck in your endeavors!

rog




[Modified by prospec, 2:33 AM 9/12/2002]

 

Is that all you charge for a cage now?

Just FYI, if you have seen any of his cages, you will realize he knows what he is talking about.

 

Roger - do you fabricate your own cages or have a shop do it for you?

 

Yes, I do all the fabrication on my cars! Those 2 Civic's Taz has, I did those too! So, yes I do know what is needed. The Blue one was my personal car.

I make these under my shade tree.

The things I dont' do - engines and transmissions! They scare me!

rog




[Modified by prospec, 11:37 AM 9/12/2002]

 

Yeah, race engines are scary.

 

Even when someone else is doing them.

 

Beautiful. I'll take one please. Hold the mayo.

 

I'd like one with some special hot sauce!
One of these days, or years ....

What do you do if the car is already built ... except for the cage?
A better way to put this would be, how much trouble is it to weld in a cage into a "running" car? TIA Ed


[Modified by Zygspeed, 8:58 PM 9/12/2002]

 

Ed,
Well, each of these cars drove in before the chassis work. The blue car had 438 miles on the odometer and the yellow car had 53000 miles.

If you strip the interior for a weld in through the dash install, the car would be inoperable. I have done showroom stock cages that do not go into the dash. Just need to strip the interior plastic and tar then get down to dirty stuff.

 

Thanks Rog, maybe I'll do that to one of my 1st gen CRX's soon.

Looks like I'll just have to install my used Kirk bar in the ITR for now.
Not many race classes in which it would be eligable to run with boost, anyway.