d16 compression?
Compression check:
Normal: 184 psi.
Minimum: 135 psi.
Max Variation: 28 psi.
Done with wide open throttle
Compression ratio: 9.4:1
This is assuming it's a non-vtec (as you did not specify).
Normal: 184 psi.
Minimum: 135 psi.
Max Variation: 28 psi.
Done with wide open throttle
Compression ratio: 9.4:1
This is assuming it's a non-vtec (as you did not specify).
my bad guys it a 99 v tec d16 motor. i did it today and it came out 140 all across with close throttle and the engine is warmed up. is that normal or should it be higher?
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sorry, let me correct myself. no 140 is not TOO low, but its definitely on the low end. try doing a wet test by squirting some oil in each cylinder before you run the test and see what your numbers are then.
so lets get this straight. i need to make sure the motor is cold and the spark plugs and wires need to be out, and keep the throttle open at all time correct?
what does the wet test do by squirting oil in each cylinder and how much oil should i squirt in it.
plus the motor has 123*** miles on it.
what does the wet test do by squirting oil in each cylinder and how much oil should i squirt in it.
plus the motor has 123*** miles on it.
so lets get this straight. i need to make sure the motor is cold and the spark plugs and wires need to be out, and keep the throttle open at all time correct?
what does the wet test do by squirting oil in each cylinder and how much oil should i squirt in it.
plus the motor has 123*** miles on it.
what does the wet test do by squirting oil in each cylinder and how much oil should i squirt in it.
plus the motor has 123*** miles on it.
some idiots do compression test when the motor is warm and those readings are inaccurate and high. best to do them WOT and when the motor is cold to the touch. you should be seeings some where near 150-180psi.
thanks for the correction
the wet test is to show worn rings vs other possibilities..........if there is no change between a wet and dry test then the next step is a compression leakage test(CLT) which will pinpoint possible leakage points(head gasket, intake or exhaust valves, or rings)
yea thats what i thought too, so the compression test when the engine is warm. i guess ill do the a wet test also to see if the rings or the walls are warn down.
uhhh i don't get where you all get your info. its supposed to be cold. just like when you do a valve lash adjustment....with it warm it is going to yield higher compression numbers from the heat....it's common sense
*facepalm* for the majority of people it's common knowledge that the engine needs to be warm. if you searched you'd find numerous explanations of how to check compression. i have yet to find one saying you should do the test cold. ALLDATA also agrees with me.
it just means that to do a compression test 100% right the engine needs to be cranking at its normal speed, if you have a weak battery or starter then you wont be cranking at full speed..............you dont need to worry about knowing exactly how many rpms its cranking at, just make sure it sounds like its normal cranking speed.
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