I was contacted by a Client about coming out to Alabama for a paint correction on a 07 Toyota Tundra, I live in TN and thats about a 600 mile round trip for me, This was my first extreme distance detail job that far away from home, but I was Excited to do it. I live a dream by detailing and being around all of these amazing cars and meeting people who have the same love for cars that I do. These people were a very nice and welcoming family. I started my road trip adventure crossing my fingers that I had everything I needed.


When I arrived to the house I came upon this beautiful Tundra in a nice salsa Red color. The truck had about 4 coats of all different types of wax on it (pinnacle souveran, zymol rouge, blackfire wet diamond, all kinds of waxs) . The owner tried everything he could to cover up the swirls but finally had to call in the artillery! Tru_Shine


My Weapons of Choice:


Wash & Clay
I had to wash this thing 4 times with Dish Detergent and some degreaser before all of the wax was removed and the water would finally stay on the surface and not roll off.
After the Wash, I clayed it with Auto magic fine clay. This thing had yellow overspray all over it

Here is the truck with all the wax on it.









and after the wash the Tru surface was revealed!

















The Halogens didn't really show the Tru surface so I pulled out the LED lights and check out what was revealed






After I taped up the truck, I began to do a test panel and see what the best combo is that I am going to use. I also used a Highline meter II PTG to check the paint thickness. even though its pretty new paint you can never be to careful.






Newer vehicles have pretty thin paint. 4-5 is average, this thing was in the low 4's and high 3's







My weapon of choice for the Buffing and polishing was FLEX 3401 and used a Lake country HydroTech Cyan pad using Meguiars M105. I have learned that using little product and working it till it's gone leaves and amazing clear swirl free, haze free finish. If you use to much product it will leave the surface hazy.

here are some before and after and 50/50 shots













I Remind you, this is after 1 step of Cyan hydrotech pad/ Meguiars M105 compound via FLEX 3401!







There were some scratches on the tailgate that had to be wetsanded out.















After about 9hr of buffing I am finally finishing up on the hood.



To be continued...........



My choice of LSP (Last step product) is my handy dandy Black fire Wet Diamond ( you just gotta love this stuff) It leaves the surface so slick and smooth. I believe that it should be scientifically proven that It increases your MPG's because it just makes your car glide through the wind! but thats just my opinion



I applied it via Flex 3401 w/ blue LC finishing pad



I finished up around 10:30pm and the weather was getting VERY BAD! I ended up having to stay at there house because there were tornado warnings and watches out on the weather channel app. The next morning another round of bad weather was coming through so I had to scadadle. the owner took some pictures out in the sun for me and emailed them to me, so here they are.




















Thanks for viewing and have a blessed day!
-Eric

 

nice i have several of those scratches as well. scared to wetsand though. what grit did you use to wetsand?

 

2000 girt paper by hand

 

you did a wonderful job you got some skills if you were local or atleast closer to me i would have you do my cars.

 

i wet sanded parts of my car because the painter left orange peel, pigtails and dirt in the paint and i used 2000 by hand. i also used my 7424xp with a LC yellow CCS pad and m105 and i cant get get all the marks out and i have no clue as to why i cant get them out with that setup. nice results though

 

im going to have to try this black fire wet diamond stuff

 

The PCXP doesn't have enough umph like the FLEX 3401 does. But you can get those wetsand marks out but you need Surbuff pads and use the Kevin Brown method. just google all of that and it will help you. Actually just read this

http://www.autopia.org/forum/machine...ct-killer.html

That should be everything you need to know if you dont want to use a Rotary buffer

 

i actually did the KB method to try and get rid of them minus the surbuf pads, but im going to look into them. Thanks for the link man.