so i got an h22a4 out of either a 97 or 99 base model prelude. got the new timing belt and water pump and installed it. wired it all up with the harness from a 97 base model. plugged it into the main car harness in my 96 S. connected up the p5m ecu. i turn the key, the dash lights all come on, then turn off and the check engine light pops on giving me 3 codes. intake air temp circuit high input, engine coolant temp circuit high input, and vtec system malfunction. go to turn over the engine and it doesn't start. i get fuel but no spark anywhere, the coil is new, the dizzy seems to be fine. does anyone have any idea?

 

If anyone has any ideas, please throw them out there. i'm at a loss with it right now...

 

do u have all your engine grounds on? that was my problem when i swapped engines. everything worked but no spark and fuel pump only turned on sometimes.

 

i'm pretty sure i do..i'll check again..battery ground on the core support, ground on the transmission from the battery, ground under the vtec solenoid, grounds on the valve cover/driver side motor mount..i think that's it..my fuel pump is doing fine...i checked spark out of the coil and nothing..

 

obd 1 or obd2?

double check your harness..
what does it sound like when it cranks or does it not crank at all?

 

the car is obd2 originally..i put in an obd1 h22a which had the engine harness wired to work with the obd2 car harness and then a jumper harness for the obd1 ecu..but i pulled the obd1 ecu and jumper, plugged in the obd2 ecu and got my friends obd2 97 base model engine harness and got a 97 engine, wired it all up, plugged it in...it cranks over, and sounds healthy, but i'm not getting any spark or anything..i can smell the raw fuel that isn't being burned because i didn't hook up the downpipe just yet just in case we have to pull it out..so neither of the O2 sensors are reading anything..but that shouldn't matter for start up should it?

 

Better grab a 96 VTEC ECU.

Your **** is probably immobilized if that 5th gen ECU isn't reading the code from its matched key, which it obviously isn't.

 

oh crap, i totally forgot about that...hmmm...wait, isn't there a way to bypass that? or no..

 

nope no way to bypass that one ..
you either go to honda and have them reset codes for 120 dollars
or have a tuning shop do it im pretty sure they can..

 

reset codes as in i can have honda take out the immobilizer so it's open for my car?