91' Civic DX (D15B2)-Turning over w/o pressing in Clutch? No Start?
I LOOKED THROUGH THE FAQ BEFORE POSTING THIS AS WELL AS SEARCHED.
Ok, I purchased a Clean 1991 Honda Civic DX Sedan from a co-worker for around $50 because he "needed the money so bad". He said it was driving around fine a couple months ago and then was having issues starting and would bog down, and backfire a couple times out of the IM. Then it wouldn't start anymore so he couldn't fix it.
Now for the issues, I picked the car up and began trying to see what problems it had.
-Tried to start the car, backfired once out of IM but then started up, after about 15 seconds it started to die out and then now it just keeps turning over without starting.
-I first checked to see if the ecu had any codes and it did NOT. When I turn the key to ON position II the ecu blinks only once and then does not blink again. The check engine light comes on only for a couple seconds and then off right away.
-The fuel pump was not priming so I checked for fuel at the filter, and there was absolutely none when I removed the inlet and outlet. I tested the main EFI relay (pita to get to) and it was faulty so i got a new relay, and upon install of the new relay the fuel pump primed up right away. I rechecked at the fuel filter and I was finally getting fuel.
-Pulled the timing belt cover and timing belt is NOT broken/snapped. Cam gear/timing belt turn when turning over.
-When I try to start the car now it just keeps turning over, but does not start.
**** I ALSO NOTICED IF THE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL, I CAN TURN THE KEY AND THE CAR WILL KEEP TURNING OVER BUT NOT STARTING JUST LIKE WHEN THE CLUTCH IS IN?? I've never seen that happen so i'm not sure if this is affecting why it's not starting.
-I'm going to check for spark tomorrow but the starting w/o engaging the clutch has got me confused? Any help would be great, I put as much as I could think of.
Ok, I purchased a Clean 1991 Honda Civic DX Sedan from a co-worker for around $50 because he "needed the money so bad". He said it was driving around fine a couple months ago and then was having issues starting and would bog down, and backfire a couple times out of the IM. Then it wouldn't start anymore so he couldn't fix it.
Now for the issues, I picked the car up and began trying to see what problems it had.
-Tried to start the car, backfired once out of IM but then started up, after about 15 seconds it started to die out and then now it just keeps turning over without starting.
-I first checked to see if the ecu had any codes and it did NOT. When I turn the key to ON position II the ecu blinks only once and then does not blink again. The check engine light comes on only for a couple seconds and then off right away.
-The fuel pump was not priming so I checked for fuel at the filter, and there was absolutely none when I removed the inlet and outlet. I tested the main EFI relay (pita to get to) and it was faulty so i got a new relay, and upon install of the new relay the fuel pump primed up right away. I rechecked at the fuel filter and I was finally getting fuel.
-Pulled the timing belt cover and timing belt is NOT broken/snapped. Cam gear/timing belt turn when turning over.
-When I try to start the car now it just keeps turning over, but does not start.
**** I ALSO NOTICED IF THE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL, I CAN TURN THE KEY AND THE CAR WILL KEEP TURNING OVER BUT NOT STARTING JUST LIKE WHEN THE CLUTCH IS IN?? I've never seen that happen so i'm not sure if this is affecting why it's not starting.
-I'm going to check for spark tomorrow but the starting w/o engaging the clutch has got me confused? Any help would be great, I put as much as I could think of.
Bump, wow 31 views and not one idea? Why look in this thread if you don't have something constructive to add?
Oh well. Could it be the clutch sensor?
Oh well. Could it be the clutch sensor?
The "clutch sensor" has probably been bypassed at some point in the car's sordid past.
The "clutch sensor" only interrupts the starter, not the ignition or fuel. So, turning over without without pressing the clutch indicates the switch has been bypassed.
You know you have gas, now check for spark. Good luck.
The "clutch sensor" only interrupts the starter, not the ignition or fuel. So, turning over without without pressing the clutch indicates the switch has been bypassed.
You know you have gas, now check for spark. Good luck.
Ok
So I pulled the distributor cap and the top metal plug that goes into the ignitor was snapped and the tiny screw holding onto the rotor was missing so it was spinning freely. So i bought a new distributor cap and installed that but it still just keeps turning over.
So I tested for spark, and each of the four plugs had the same weak orange spark. Does this mean my coil or something else in the distributor is bad?
I have a buddy bringing me a completely functional distributor for free to try out. Would this solve my problem seeing as how my coil/ignitor/etc. is known to work in his?
Thanks for the above input
So I pulled the distributor cap and the top metal plug that goes into the ignitor was snapped and the tiny screw holding onto the rotor was missing so it was spinning freely. So i bought a new distributor cap and installed that but it still just keeps turning over.
So I tested for spark, and each of the four plugs had the same weak orange spark. Does this mean my coil or something else in the distributor is bad?
I have a buddy bringing me a completely functional distributor for free to try out. Would this solve my problem seeing as how my coil/ignitor/etc. is known to work in his?
Thanks for the above input
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Orange spark is an indication of "weak" spark so hopefully with the good dizzy the car will fire up.
^^Thanks guys.
So wtf, I only have 7 wires total coming from my distributor. Shouldn't there be 9 all together? 2 on one connector and 7 on the other? I only seem to have 5 on one and the two correct ones on one connector if that makes sense.
So wtf, I only have 7 wires total coming from my distributor. Shouldn't there be 9 all together? 2 on one connector and 7 on the other? I only seem to have 5 on one and the two correct ones on one connector if that makes sense.
And the connector with the 5 wires is a square-ish one which seems odd. I thought it was supposed to have 7 with a circular connector and then 2 with the smaller connector?
EDIT: It's a DX so it's supposed to only have 5 wires? The dizzy he happened to have is a d16z6 distributor so could I still re-wire that in? Thanks in advance.
EDIT: It's a DX so it's supposed to only have 5 wires? The dizzy he happened to have is a d16z6 distributor so could I still re-wire that in? Thanks in advance.
Could I just wire in the obd0 female plug to the obd1 d16z6 distributor to have it plug right in and modify the brackets to have it fit the d15b2?
If so, what would I do with the extra two wires from the z6 dizzy (blue/green and blue/yellow I believe)?
Thanks!
If so, what would I do with the extra two wires from the z6 dizzy (blue/green and blue/yellow I believe)?
Thanks!
^^Thanks man, I figured this is the issue.
I'd rather just re-wire this z6 dizzy if possible because I got it for free. I'm just still unsure about those two wires on it?
I'd rather just re-wire this z6 dizzy if possible because I got it for free. I'm just still unsure about those two wires on it?
Hmm maybe i'll just have the extra two wires lead to nothing and see what happens? I know they are sensors for something but i've searched and can't find more info on it.
the extra wires are from the z6 dizzy or your harness. dizzy im guessing. you can run a vtec dizzy on a non vtec engine. only issue is if it is obd0 or obd1.
Won't work, can't run an obd1 dizzy on an obd0 ecu, you will need to get a dpfi obd0 dizzy. The 2 extra wires on the obd1 dizzy are the cyl sensor. Get a new obd0 dual point dizzy with the 5 wire square plug and you should be golden.
^^Thanks guys.
Thanks man, that's what I figured but it's always good to triple check. I'll just find an obd0 dizzy then and go from there
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