old set-up 240whp--new 220whp whats up?
well i had a 12.0.1 cr motor that made 237whp running out of inj on e85
that motor droped a sleave and i started over w a new set-up very
similar at 12.0.1 w the same cams............
the new motor is running huge inj 88occ the old was 450's so i know i
have enough fuel and the issue on the dyno wasnt fuel....
also the new motor has itb's and a different header
the new motor w itbs and big inj's beat the old motor hands down
from 3500-5500 it some aeras by as much as 40whp more.
you here vtec enguage and it is pulling good then just breaks
up horrible and misfires and doesnt make any more power..the curve is flat doneall the way till 8000rpms..
we replaced the plugs (copper and irdiruem)and the coil on the dyno and found no change????
my tunner suggested make sure vtec is enguageing at the rockers
the solenoid is working properly and the motor is 100%in time...
oil psi is very good as well...we tested it at the head even...........i dont think it is in the head
but i did pull the cams and inspect and found nothing.....i tried the air psi test to enguage vtec and the resulst were
incunclusive....on the dyno we were perty sure it wasnt compression related but i did do a compression test and all cycls were good...
it made 229whp on one pull,, we know it had compression.....also a caviler dynoed before me at 200whp and he ran a 13.4 at a 2600lbs race weight
so i dont want to here any bs about its just a high reading dyno....
i have ordered a distribor from honda too see what happen's
any suggestions.....it did make good power w this set-up it is
just a misfireing shitty pull over 5500rpm.....but below it just
smoked the euro R combo i had before so i belive there to
be alot left in this motor at high rpm if it made 20-40 more hp
in the mid range if it could just keep that going it will be a faster
car than before that is why i am dissappointed and it's misfireing lol
we tried many a/f cures and saw the changes fuel is good
ign changes on the map resulted in little changes that is
why i belive it to be spark related......help me quit spinning my wheeles?????
i dont think it is the tunners fault the graph is perfect below 5500 then
gets all choppy so i would think if he can tune down low he can tune up top???
that motor droped a sleave and i started over w a new set-up very
similar at 12.0.1 w the same cams............
the new motor is running huge inj 88occ the old was 450's so i know i
have enough fuel and the issue on the dyno wasnt fuel....
also the new motor has itb's and a different header
the new motor w itbs and big inj's beat the old motor hands down
from 3500-5500 it some aeras by as much as 40whp more.
you here vtec enguage and it is pulling good then just breaks
up horrible and misfires and doesnt make any more power..the curve is flat doneall the way till 8000rpms..
we replaced the plugs (copper and irdiruem)and the coil on the dyno and found no change????
my tunner suggested make sure vtec is enguageing at the rockers
the solenoid is working properly and the motor is 100%in time...
oil psi is very good as well...we tested it at the head even...........i dont think it is in the head
but i did pull the cams and inspect and found nothing.....i tried the air psi test to enguage vtec and the resulst were
incunclusive....on the dyno we were perty sure it wasnt compression related but i did do a compression test and all cycls were good...
it made 229whp on one pull,, we know it had compression.....also a caviler dynoed before me at 200whp and he ran a 13.4 at a 2600lbs race weight
so i dont want to here any bs about its just a high reading dyno....
i have ordered a distribor from honda too see what happen's
any suggestions.....it did make good power w this set-up it is
just a misfireing shitty pull over 5500rpm.....but below it just
smoked the euro R combo i had before so i belive there to
be alot left in this motor at high rpm if it made 20-40 more hp
in the mid range if it could just keep that going it will be a faster
car than before that is why i am dissappointed and it's misfireing lol
we tried many a/f cures and saw the changes fuel is good
ign changes on the map resulted in little changes that is
why i belive it to be spark related......help me quit spinning my wheeles?????
i dont think it is the tunners fault the graph is perfect below 5500 then
gets all choppy so i would think if he can tune down low he can tune up top???
Last edited by GoldLudeRay; Apr 25, 2010 at 03:03 PM.
throttle plates synchronized?
what indexing are you using? TPS? MAP? Alpha-N?
________
Vapor genie vaporizer
what indexing are you using? TPS? MAP? Alpha-N?
________
Vapor genie vaporizer
Last edited by q16racer; Mar 13, 2011 at 04:34 PM.
they were at .040 or so
it is the stock h23 map sensor we are using that was also used on the im 240whp
i am using a golden eagle vacume block w 3 runners taped for vacume.....i asked
him several times if he is seeing any odd signals to the map sensor and he said no??
this motor was on the dyno making many pulls on the 880 inj w itbs we were trying to
dyno tune the motor in and could only get the motor to run super strong down low
and crappy up top???
ign problem????? i have ordered a new distributor from honda we tried a new coil as well allready w no change...............
vtec problem????? i tried testing it w air psi but it was incunclusive it is the same head as the old motor never dissambeled????????????? solenoid is oppereating
is it the tunners fault?????i really dont think so it did great down low if he can tune down there he can tune up top as well......also the pulls were very inconsient teribble varraiences between pulls w minor changes,,,
we have no idea where the 229whp pull came from'''' most were around 200whp a few 215whp all over the place for a n/a car
Last edited by GoldLudeRay; Apr 25, 2010 at 03:05 PM.
im not sure what he was using
the tunning thing overwhealms me thats why i pay for it lol
it is tunned w aem on both motors...not sure if via tps or map
i looked at the throttle blades and they seem to be syrnoined good motor starts great and idles good reves in netural very well
and i asked him if that could be the problem the itbs and he thought no because
it wouldnt of ran so good down low????? correct me if im wrong i dont know or
care if i get flamed but find the answer?
the tunning thing overwhealms me thats why i pay for it lol
it is tunned w aem on both motors...not sure if via tps or map
i looked at the throttle blades and they seem to be syrnoined good motor starts great and idles good reves in netural very well
and i asked him if that could be the problem the itbs and he thought no because
it wouldnt of ran so good down low????? correct me if im wrong i dont know or
care if i get flamed but find the answer?
Does the engine recover and run OK (even with VTEC on) when the RPM drops a bit? Try replacing the crank position sensor (in distrib). Or, you may be getting electrical noise that hits the right "frequency" and causes the injectors or timing signals to go haywire.
However, I would look at the ignition signal. I would bet that it has a slope or more of a triangle saw-tooth shape. As the RPM increases, the bottom part gets smaller until you never really reach the bottom of the signal. RPM increases further and at some point the signal fails to drop low enough to reset the ECU triggers. Don't know if this is your problem, but I had that issue on another engine I put together.
However, I would look at the ignition signal. I would bet that it has a slope or more of a triangle saw-tooth shape. As the RPM increases, the bottom part gets smaller until you never really reach the bottom of the signal. RPM increases further and at some point the signal fails to drop low enough to reset the ECU triggers. Don't know if this is your problem, but I had that issue on another engine I put together.
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Does the engine recover and run OK (even with VTEC on) when the RPM drops a bit? Try replacing the crank position sensor (in distrib). Or, you may be getting electrical noise that hits the right "frequency" and causes the injectors or timing signals to go haywire.
However, I would look at the ignition signal. I would bet that it has a slope or more of a triangle saw-tooth shape. As the RPM increases, the bottom part gets smaller until you never really reach the bottom of the signal. RPM increases further and at some point the signal fails to drop low enough to reset the ECU triggers. Don't know if this is your problem, but I had that issue on another engine I put together.
However, I would look at the ignition signal. I would bet that it has a slope or more of a triangle saw-tooth shape. As the RPM increases, the bottom part gets smaller until you never really reach the bottom of the signal. RPM increases further and at some point the signal fails to drop low enough to reset the ECU triggers. Don't know if this is your problem, but I had that issue on another engine I put together.
the engine does recover just fine it never dies
i am going to be replace the dist this week
you should really look into synching the throttles. You arent going to have chance in hell synching them by eye.
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V8
Last edited by q16racer; Mar 13, 2011 at 04:34 PM.
Unfortunately I was on the PA turnpike on my way to a track day after driving 7hrs the night before.
Have you checked the screen on the vtec solenoid? If the last motor blew there could be junk in that screen thats blocking the oil flow.
Has your tuner had much experience with aem? Aem handles vtec alot differently then a stock ecu or hondata etc. Instead of switching between high/lo cam maps it takes the value in your fuel map and adds a set percentage of fuel (that percentage is changed in the vtec parameters) to that value when vtec is engaged. Its a pretty stupid way of setting up vtec but thats how they do it. Since you've almost doubled the size of your injectors that percentage may need to be adjusted. It sounds to me like its just getting overloaded with fuel when vtec engages.
Has your tuner had much experience with aem? Aem handles vtec alot differently then a stock ecu or hondata etc. Instead of switching between high/lo cam maps it takes the value in your fuel map and adds a set percentage of fuel (that percentage is changed in the vtec parameters) to that value when vtec is engaged. Its a pretty stupid way of setting up vtec but thats how they do it. Since you've almost doubled the size of your injectors that percentage may need to be adjusted. It sounds to me like its just getting overloaded with fuel when vtec engages.
Tach signal is driven directly from dizzy - Since tach goes crazy, that is the same thing the ECU sees. 80% sure the dizzy will help if you are replacing the sensor in the dizzy as well.
thanks for the input guys
i did check the solenoid on the dyno and there was sludge in there
but no metal...the last motor just had a loose sleave in it no castotific problems
just horrid noises........
he loves aem and the last motor at 240hp was tuned by hime on aem
it is basicially a stock ign system
the ign has a msd cap..wires..ngk plugs...stock dizzy and coil
i hope he has the fuel correctlly......i may need to swing up your way
rosko and have you look at the map sometime? if you are cool w that?
but it bounces all over the place on the oem cluster and aftermarket tach
i did check the solenoid on the dyno and there was sludge in there
but no metal...the last motor just had a loose sleave in it no castotific problems
just horrid noises........
he loves aem and the last motor at 240hp was tuned by hime on aem
it is basicially a stock ign system
the ign has a msd cap..wires..ngk plugs...stock dizzy and coil
i hope he has the fuel correctlly......i may need to swing up your way
rosko and have you look at the map sometime? if you are cool w that?
but it bounces all over the place on the oem cluster and aftermarket tach
thanks for the input guys
i did check the solenoid on the dyno and there was sludge in there
but no metal...the last motor just had a loose sleave in it no castotific problems
just horrid noises........
he loves aem and the last motor at 240hp was tuned by hime on aem
it is basicially a stock ign system
the ign has a msd cap..wires..ngk plugs...stock dizzy and coil
i hope he has the fuel correctlly......i may need to swing up your way
rosko and have you look at the map sometime? if you are cool w that?
but it bounces all over the place on the oem cluster and aftermarket tach
i did check the solenoid on the dyno and there was sludge in there
but no metal...the last motor just had a loose sleave in it no castotific problems
just horrid noises........
he loves aem and the last motor at 240hp was tuned by hime on aem
it is basicially a stock ign system
the ign has a msd cap..wires..ngk plugs...stock dizzy and coil
i hope he has the fuel correctlly......i may need to swing up your way
rosko and have you look at the map sometime? if you are cool w that?
but it bounces all over the place on the oem cluster and aftermarket tach
I'm deffinately thinking its ignition now though since you said that about the tach.
How solid is your wiring? Have you changed the location of the wires from the last engine? I had this issue awhile back when I ran my coil wire too close to the main harness and the emi noise from the coil wire would mess up the signal wires coming from the distributor and the car would break up. Theres a parameter in aem called "timing errors" that will log all the errors. I could watch this paramter as the car was running and sort of move things around to find out exactly what was happening. Everytime the dizzy sensors skip a beat that parameter will log an error. Could be the wiring or it could be the dizzy but that parameter can be a helpful tool.
I'm deffinately thinking its ignition now though since you said that about the tach.
I'm deffinately thinking its ignition now though since you said that about the tach.
i have changed to msd coil wire since last time???
i have moved the engine harness where the ecu is so i can mount aem better inside
the car.....i never heard my tunner mention an ign code? but who knows.....
i ordered the distributor on sunday so hopefully it is here this week....
i dont think it is a map sensor issue....but w itb's i know this can be a touchy subjuct
i have 3 of the runners tapped for vacume going to a vacume box sending lines off
to map sensor and brake booster and fuel psi regulator...i wouldnt think that is a issue??
i have changed to msd coil wire since last time???
i have moved the engine harness where the ecu is so i can mount aem better inside
the car.....i never heard my tunner mention an ign code? but who knows.....
i ordered the distributor on sunday so hopefully it is here this week....
i dont think it is a map sensor issue....but w itb's i know this can be a touchy subjuct
i have 3 of the runners tapped for vacume going to a vacume box sending lines off
to map sensor and brake booster and fuel psi regulator...i wouldnt think that is a issue??
i have moved the engine harness where the ecu is so i can mount aem better inside
the car.....i never heard my tunner mention an ign code? but who knows.....
i ordered the distributor on sunday so hopefully it is here this week....
i dont think it is a map sensor issue....but w itb's i know this can be a touchy subjuct
i have 3 of the runners tapped for vacume going to a vacume box sending lines off
to map sensor and brake booster and fuel psi regulator...i wouldnt think that is a issue??
im not sure if it was i have torn it down all ready
i will make sure it no where near any other wires
when i install the new dizzy...thanks for the tip
rosko....
i will make sure it no where near any other wires
when i install the new dizzy...thanks for the tip
rosko....
Last edited by q16racer; Mar 13, 2011 at 04:34 PM.


