alright i was a dumb *** and traded my eg with a jdm h22a in it for a integra.. long story short i got it back 2 days ago, i was driving it not even beating on it, it started knocking and made it about 5 mins down the road and it overheated n died out...

whats the worst case scenerio im lookin at?? rod bearing? bent rod?

someone is trying to sell me a f22 crank and rods, but would that do any difference??? where do i get the bearings auto zone?

all help is appreciated thx

 

dont get oem "style" parts for a bottem end from a parts store, you go to honda and pay the price, and i dont know what f22 internals will do for a H, imma b-series guy but most of the time (like 90%) if you have a rode knock it means that block is gone, you cant fix alluminum, but H-series motors are cheap so i would prolly just get another H22, and you said it over heated and died well it mite just be fried dude like i said just get another motor

 

Take your motor apart and see what u need 1st. Would if u need rods not a crank. h22 engines are affordable than d series in a way.

 

i found a jdm replacement in chicago which is only 45 mins from here for 800 bux cash..

 

do it!

 

well thats the prob the f22 crank n **** and new bearings i mite spend 150 bux... 800 is gonna take longer to get.. also i guess the f22 rods and crank stroke it to a 2.3

 

why would you let it overheat and die? i seriously dont understand some people...


if it was knocking, definitely a salvageable motor. replace rod bearings and rings, good to go. since you let it overheat and die, you're more than likely looking at a spun main bearing. which means the block is toast.


you turned a $250 mistake into an $800 one.

 

**** happens, i had no choice but to drive it home.... either way a block isnt nothin i just bought a f22b block for it incase anything is messed up...

 

In your other thread, I told ya not to get a car that wasn't wired up completely, and didn't run right. Did you end up getting the P13 ECU, or did you run the P06 when this happened?

 

sucks

 

I think you are way off on that one. An align hone and some plastiguage to measure clearance for the right crank bearings and the engine will be just fine. Crank shaft bearings come in various thickness for this very purpose, just like rod bearings.

here is an example of an align hone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rs-WO5CfLno

 

At worst, the whole bottom end is done....

At best, you may be able to get away with a new rod and some machine work....

 

what are u talking about?? the car is wired up correctly charlie... anyway im to lazy to do the work but i got all the stuff for sale .. h22 swap with the nock, and a f22b block, im just going to go buy the one in chicago make a good offer

 

good go buy something that already works and enjoy

 

Wow...I am smoking crack. I confused you with another member on here who was talking about trading their car for an H22 swapped 5th gen, sorry about that.

 

GOOD JOB YOU FOUND A VIDEO ON YOUTUBE.

anything is fixable with the right amount of money. i wouldn't trust some of the machine shops around my area with fixing a spun main bearing.

 

You are obviously a captain cool guy. I posted the video for those who don't know what an align hone is, thought you might like to learn something since you told the guy if he spun a crank bearing his block was toast.

 

sounds like a good block to build... and atleast he put a vid up,to show some people what a align hone is.... this is a tech forum...so who gives a **** where he got the video..

 

thx kidkorner, yes it is a tech thread, and im glad u did find that video cuz i had no idea about that ****... n e way no need for n e 1 to b negative,

anyone no any difference between the h22a and h22a4?? i think the a4 is slower rite? i found a block for 300 bux but i dont know if i should just go ahead and spend the 800 n pick up a fresh jdm h22a

 

Depends what the H22A4 came out of. If it's a regular Prelude, then it will be worth it. If it's the H22A4 out of a Prelude SH, then it's not worth getting. The SH came with ATTS, so the block is different, and would require modifications to work with your current setup. If it's the "regular" H22A4, then it just has slightly lower compression than the JDM H22A's. You could probably find OE JDM pistons for $250-300, and make up that compression ratio loss, and still be a little under $800 total.

 

The H22A4 has 195 BHP, the JDM H22A has about 10 more HP. the small difference in the HP is not worth the extra $500, save cash and pick up the A4 and sink the rest of the saved cash toward anything you may need to freshen up the block, such as oil pump, water pump, timing belt etc..

 

i guess not tryin to sound like a total noob (more like not tryin to get ****ed over) but is there anything perticular i should be lookin at to see if this block is screwed up or not??? story is dude had it in a eg 4 door and wrecked the car, so he's sellin the whole swap for 900 but it dont make sense to me why the head is already seperated from the block... i just dont know if 300 plus headaches is worth it lol

 

there's honestly not much you can check for with the engine out of the car. oil leaks most definitely, but you cant see it run, cant do a compression test.


since the head is separated from the block run your finger up the cylinder wall and check for a lip at the top. look for copious amounts of carbon buildup and spin the engine with a ratchet.

 

ok so what do u mean a lip at the top of the cylindeR??? why would there be a lip??
see thats scares the **** out of me i cant do a compression test on it, i been screwed over on 1 motor b4 and its kinda hard to trust someone again, i lost about 500 bux in that deal..

 

you can rotate the crank and see if the cylinder walls are scored or pitted, you can remove the oil pan and look at the main caps, crank and rods.