I have been borrowing a variety of tie-downs for trailering the CRX. However, it's about time I bought a setup of my own. What do you guys recommend? I have seen everything from front/rear ratchets around tow hooks, over-axle ratchets, fixed length chain in front with ratchets in the rear, etc.

I basically want super overkill that isn't going to take an hour to load/unload each time. I just want something that won't let my car off the tralier even if it's hanging off a cliff.

I know it's not an exciting topic, but exciting topics are things like "my car fell off the trailer."


[Modified by ITR#231, 9:53 PM 9/10/2002]

 

I just bought a trailer myself for my crx. I went the Home Depot route. I bought 4 rachet straps 2" wide rated at 10,000lbs each. I also got a 6ft lenght of 5/16 chain that attaches the front tow hook to the trailer with a pad lock. This is the final safety if all four rachet straps magically fall off.

Cost: Straps $12 each. Chain $5, Master Lock $9.

So for $62 bucks, I got every thing I need. I've already towed it to a race and everything worked perfectly.

 

I was looking at home depot the other day and was thinking about your idea. So you have one of the 10,000# straps on each corner? What do you attach it to on the car?

The chain backup is a good idea. Anti-theft too, LOL!

 

Make sure you get tie downs that use the hooks with a spring loaded catch. Some straps have hooks that are open and can fall off. This can easily happen if the trailer goes over a bump, compressing the suspension of the race car enough that there is significant slack in the tie-down momentarily. From there, it's easy for the hook to fall off and bam, you have lost one strap.

Axle straps are good in that you can hook the loop over control arms and such in the rear, which is what I do. However, they are not good for shorter connections such as going from the front tow-hooks to your anchors.

Good ratcheting straps with an axle loop specifically made for tying down a vehicle are around $25 each.

 

S-Line brand straps/ratchets purchased @ Racer Wholesale. They have the spring loaded gates on the hooks mentioned above. The hooks are also turned 90* from the straps. In other words, the hooks are not in the same plane as the strap. Axle loops around rear lower control arms with ratcheting straps attaching them to the trailer. The front use ratcheting straps to the tow hook. I cross the straps so they form 'x' front & rear.

 

The HD straps I got click into place when you lock them and a spring keeps it locked. On the end of the strap, I bought these metal rings, again Home Depot. They look like an bolt bent into the shape of a C. The gap in the C is sealed by a nut built into it. I conned these to the strap and then to the tow hooks at all 4 corners. NO chance of that puppy falling off. The safety chain goes to the tow hook as well.

 

Why do you cross the rear straps?

 

http://www.racerwholesale.com/Mercha...ler+%26+Towing

Set of four for $69.99.

I use four straps like these, only no axle strap - all are connected to tie down loops on the car.

You cross the straps in an 'X' to help stop side to side movement of the car on the trailer.

 

I used to cross the straps in an "X" but stopped a few years ago. I found that by crossing the straps they had to be longer, and would stretch a bit more and get loose faster - and that they were less effective then in preventing fore and aft movement. So much of this depends upon the various angles and distances given a particular car and trailer, though.

 

I started towing in June and I have went through a few combinations to find something I like. Remember that opinions are like a**holes ...

Stay away from the Home Depot crap with the open hooks. The hooks straighten and/or break. Then they fall off. Only buy straps with spring loaded catches. They don't fall off.

I wanted to do the fixed length in front and crossed ratchets in back, but I have found that it rarely ever works out right. Too often you would find that the car isn't exactly positioned for the fixed straps to go on. Just use 4 good ratchets.

Suggestion - get 2 each of 2 different colors. You will know when you pull 'em out of the back of your truck which are for the front and which are for the rear. I can recommend the straps from Pegasus and Racer Wholesale. I like the Pegasus ones a little better. Pegasus = black, RW = blue!

As for the crossed versus straight, I'm still deciding. I have straight on the front and crossed on the back right now, and it's true, the rears tend to loosen a little faster. I am also not comfortable putting so much sideways force on the suspension. A final discussion point will be: tie down to an unsprung or sprung point? Lots of controversy here! I use a sprung point in the front and an unsprung in the back. On a very stiff car, it doesn't seem to matter much.

Can't help you much with the tiedown points on a Honda. I would avoid axle straps if possible, and make absolutely sure that the strap isn't "hanging up" on any suspension bit / nuts / etc. It will wear through VERY quickly. I know someone who lost his car off the trailer this year because of worn straps. Check your trailer straps about as often as you would check your harnesses.

Good luck!

 

See also:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=260154

Last comment: If you do not find suitable tie-down locations, I would recommend having thick sheet-metal eyelets welded to the frame rails for attachment points. Here is a pic similar to what I use on my not-Honda:

 

I 'x' the straps front & rear because I have an open pit type trailer. I don't want to worry about it slipping sideways. I still have the e brake. I use that & put the car in gear to prevent movement. I tried to use fixed straps in the back but switched after a couple of times. It was too hard to get the car in exactly the same spot every time.

 

With respect to tie downs- make sure you get the heavy duty parts with the latches on the hooks so they do not fall off.

On my 85 CRX, I use fixed length straps in the front from the tow hooks straight forward to the trailer. One is always a little slack but has not caused problems.

I currently use two ratchet straps in the rear to the center tow hook. This is not ideal but I cannot get to the two tow loops nearer the wheels on the chassis due to my sway bar.

I prefer to keep the straps as straight (front to rear) as possible to keep the car from moving forward and back.

I do not like connecting to the suspension for fear of bending something. I will not connect to the wheel spokes for the same reason and if the wheel rotates, the straps will loosen. The only other thing that I would suggest is using a tow dolly style strap that runs over the tire and only pulls straight down.

 

Good stuff so far. I agree with M Whitney: stay away from the bent S hook types of straps unless you really don't care for your car. Its an easy mistake to make but one that should be fixed.

I use a fixed length piece of 3/16" cable for the back looped over the lower control arms of the Civic. For the front 2 ratcheting tie downs hooked on the factory tie down loops. I do ratchet the car down tight enough to just start seeing the suspension settle. That way I know it won't bounce around when the trailer hits some bumps.

After spending $1000s on the car tie downs are not a place to go cheap.

Ron

 

Sorry about bringing up this old thread but, after doing a search, this is the only topic I could find on tie downs.

I'm just wondering if anyone had some pics of strap down locations on a Honda? Or any new updates to their previous setups?

 

Sorry no pics here. Try doing a search on "T hooks".

As an update for my method of tying down the car. I now have an enclosed trailer.

Rear: I still cross the straps in the back. Instead of using axle straps over the lower arms, I now use T-hooks inserted into the oval located below the b pillar area. (I used to use axle straps around the lower arms.

Front: I am using mini J-hooks inserted into the holes just aft of the front wheel well. The straps are crossed. (I used to attach to the front tow hooks.)

These are the where the cars are attached when transported by professional companies. I got the 'hooks' thru AW Direct who I found on a post here. I don't find straps getting loose even though crossing does yield longer lengths. I find it helpful to make sure the car is out of gear with no e-brake when doing final tightening of the straps.

 

GET tiedowns on which the ends were not formed by bending rod - they can and will unbend if sufficient force is applied. Forged or stamped hooks are a much better idea.

Also remember that a 10K pound strap isn't just holding down a 2500# car: That same car in a 4g lateral acceleration suddenly "weighs" for times as much. Further, tiedowns can NOT be installed in such a way that all possible loads on the car put the tiedown in pure tension.

K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6ghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry about bringing up this old thread but, after doing a search, this is the only topic I could find on tie downs.

I'm just wondering if anyone had some pics of strap down locations on a Honda? Or any new updates to their previous setups?</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=498406

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 743 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=498406</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, I just ordered a pair!

 

hi.

i will share a little here. hope i can help.

1. with some rigs, it is very important to figure out the correct balance and tongue weight. i figured it out with my combo, and marked it on the deck. then i bolted down two rather large 6"x6" blocks to the deck. with that setup, i can drive the car on til the front wheels bumps up against the blocks. presto; same weight balance every loadup!
2. i went to the local tractor supply shop and bought 4 mondo huge bolt down eyelets; these i secured thru the deck into the steel boxed frame with huge bolts. i figure if its stong enough to hold down a full size Kubota....
3. i use the 10,000 lb straps. i put them thru the wheels; not the frame of the car. some folks will tell you this is hard on the suspension. i don't believe it is anywhere near as hard as racing the car!!!! btw, never suffered any "blown shocks, ever".
4. i always use the handbrake, if the car has one. i never, ever, ever leave it in gear. i was told that the constant "whip" of the car moving forward and back, even a little, put alot of strain on the gears and clutch of the car. i don't know if this is true, but it seems very plausible to me.

i've probably got 80k towing miles under my belt; no catastrophes yet

hope some of that helps!

 

I took racinmysi's advice..

I went to a truck stop and grabbed them for $5 each... $20 for all 4 rated at 10000lbs and as seen above!

 

I bought these also, last fall. Excellent choice!!!


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=498406

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicrr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Rear: I still cross the straps in the back. Instead of using axle straps over the lower arms, I now use T-hooks inserted into the oval located below the b pillar area. (I used to use axle straps around the lower arms.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I really want to see a picture of this setup.

Nash

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rambler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I really want to see a picture of this setup.

Nash</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here you go:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=498406

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Here you go:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=498406</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ya, found that one. Guess I should have been more specifc - where specifically is this hole. Does anyone have an overall pic a car tied down using this location.

Nash