the car was throwing code 43(fuel supply system), i drove it for a few days and then it through code 7(tps). i replaced it set it at .48 CT and 4.40 WOT. Drove for like a mile and now both codes are coming up. any help thanks.
car is a 94 civic motor is h22a

 

o yea when it warms up, at a light or stop idle goes to 2300.

 

i would replace the tps and see if that gets rid of both codes.

edit: do u have a known good ecu? what kind of ecu?

 

i replaced it aready as stated, the codes only comes on when the car is warmed up.

im pretty sure its good, i have a extra one i can check. i dont think thats the problem tho. p28

i let it warm up this morning and checked the tps. it was at idle .53v, so when i get home im going to adjust it down to .5 hope that works

 

anyone else. if you fix my problem i will paypal some cash

 

i have a skunk2 IM and a adjustable FPR. if that might have something to do with the tps??

 

got home and re-calibrated it, the tps/code7 is gone but i still have the fuel supply system/code 43
anything? code shows up only when the car is warm.

 

it could also be the Heated oxygen circuit.

 

more info? thanks

 

tomorrow im going to swap the ecu/o2 sensor with a buddys and see what happens. crossing my fingers

 

TPS rarely goes bad, when a code 7 comes up, your electrical connections is probably bad. Example by you plugging and unplugging the connector seem to solve that issuse, its not because of 30mV. Code 43 appear most of the time when fuel flow is disrupted, either by a fuel pump going out, fuel filter, clogged injectors, and/or as mention above by Jordan; O2 sensor. Hope this helps.

 

so far i replaced the fuel filter and tps. i dont its the fuel pump bc i can hear it turn on.. at the fuel filter i have 43psi.

 

Pull your injectors out and clean them, check for cracks and check O2.

 

Have you thought about checking your fuel pressure yet? Seems to be the first thing that one would do when they get a code for fuel supply system problem. During the pressure test, you'd kill two birds with one stone by checking if the pump is good and also checking if the fuel pressure regulator is good.

 

did that got 43psi

 

Was there a pressure drop when you turned the car off?

 

nope

 

Do you have a scanner by chance? If you have a decent scanner like a Snap-On MT2500 or SOLUS, you can datalog and view your fuel trim while driving the car around or idling.

 

no im to poor for that. i think my problem is in the ecu, i think i need the get it chipped/tuned for my motor.

 

Do you at least have a volt/ohm meter?

If you can't get access to a scanner, you can use a volt meter to check your O2 output voltage. Rev the engine from idle to 3000RPM with the volt meter connected to the O2 sensor signal wires. You should see voltage fluctuate from 0.1V to 0.9V. If voltage switches quickly, the sensor is okay, if it pegs at certain voltages or changes slowly, the O2 sensor is bad. If it changes slowly or pegs, the CEL will not come on for o2 sensor, only for fuel supply system. If voltage doesn't change at all, you'll get an O2 Sensor B1S1 code, but no fuel supply system code.

If you could borrow someone's scanner, you could view everything at once; TPS voltage, MAP, O2, fuel trims, RPM, MPH, BARO, EVAP, etc. . Without a scanner, you'll have to test each component individually.

 

i got a meter. i will check that tomorrow and call around for a scanner

 

Forgot to mention...

If there's no voltage to your O2 sensor, then the problem is in your ECU and you should leave the O2 alone. I've seen a couple ECUs with burned out pins from people plugging **** in the wrong place (most common occurence is when they switch the plugs for EVAP & IAT). When the pin burns out, the code function is disabled and the CEL will never turn on for that item.

 

ok at the plug i got 11.83, i also did a bench test on the o2 with a torch. the highest voltage i got was around .6 shouldn't it be .9 to 1.0??

 

ur fuel psi needs to be higher then 43

 

Voltage must be above 0.1v and below 0.9v. When you're testing on the car, you need to measure the amount of time it takes to for the voltage to switch. If you've ever seen someone's air/fuel ratio meters, you can see the light bounces all over the gauge constantly rich/lean, rich/lean, rich/lean.

If your voltage changes are too slow or they're pegged in one spot, then the O2 sensor is bad.

H22A:
Fuel pressure should be 32-40psi with FPR vacuum disconnected.
25-32psi with vacuum connected.

F22A:
36-43psi disconnected.
28-36psi connected.


Assuming he didn't bleed his fuel pressure before performing the test, 43psi should be okay on his H22.