1995 accord ex vtec.
Ok background info.
Went and replaced my master cylinder this weekend over my uncles house, got it all hooked up, bled, blah, blah, blah. Only disconnected a couple vacuum lines, and yes, they are hooked up correctly. So as soon as I got home and parked my car I noticed this almost misfire feeling, but not CEL. So it was late and I figured I could deal with it the next day. S the next day, did a cylinder power balance test and 2 was running weak at idle. Checked wires, all within ohm spec. Checked plugs, which are only a few months old, and they were fine, so i figured maybe it was the cap or something. Anyhow, went to work that day, and later on I was driving to go get some food real quick and my CEL came on. Turned the car off when I got my food then back on. CEL did not come back on, so I drove back to work, scanned what the code was, and it was for the EGR system. Code 12 or 13 is what it was.

So my buddy at work said that I had to clean my egr ports, and that should solve the issue. So following the honda service bulletin, and a few walk throughs, yesterday morning I cleaned them. 3 out of 4 of them were completely shut with carbon. Started the car, sounded great, I let it idle for a few minutes while I was putting tools away. I went over after a few and revved it up and it fell on its face and cut off. So then I went and started it, but it wouldnt. It would only start if I get it some throttle. Even once it started, if I didnt hold the throttle open to some degree it would drop down to like 250 rpms then cut off. So I took everything back apart, checked it, and then put it back together. Same thing, started great, let it idle, but as soon as I touched the throttle and then let off it dies.

So then I got some engine cleaner (like seafoam) and ran it through the engine, thinking that is was possible the carbon that I had cleaned could be causing issues internally. So I ran it through, and then turned the car off to let it sit inside and do its thing. Came back an hour later and let the smoke come rolling out. Revved it up and down, and it was fine. But, as soon as it got up to operating temperature it seems it did it again. Fell right on its face. So I then pulled the EGR valve off, thinking it could be stuck open, and it was closed. I blew air in it to see if there was a leak somehow, and it did not leak. I cleaned a little carbon out, put it back on and it started when I did. And the engine had not really cooled down yet. But once again, as soon as the throttle was touched. Fell on its face. Maybe the EGR is just staying stuck open or something, but when I took it off it was closed.

Anyone please. I work at Honda, and the cheapest I can get the oem EGR valve for is 170. I am not trying to spend that money if I do not have to.

 

nevermind.

fixed it.

/thread

 

what was the issue and the solution?

Elmerfudd

 

yea can you share how you fixed it. im having some issues with my egr valve too. ive heard that seafoam will clean out the deposits in your cylinders but because of this you lose compression after seafoaming. something about as your car gets older, the gaps between the cylinders and the cylinder walls increase and the deposits fill these spaces and actually maintain compression. is this true?

 

thansk for info

 

Hey guy, can i have an solution to the problem or would you be able to give me back my 5 minutes.

 

yeah, when i wrote that i had fixed it, it was literally 10 minutes before i had to leave for work. So I was in a rush to get ready and all. basically, i felt like an idiot, but, when my uncle and i replaced the master cylinder, we unplugged the two small vacuum lines that go to the egr control solenoid (by the ABS). And when they were plugged back in, my engine was not up to temperature, so when I left his house, all seemed normal. Then it was carrying on at idle when I got home. That would be because only port for the EGR was even open, cylinder 2. Which was why cylinder 2 faield the cylinder power balance test. Turns out, the vacuum lines were switched. They looked normal, but actually they werent, and even when they were plugged in the correct ones, they look crossed over eachother, which of course did not look right. So, I had thought nothing of it. So after cleaning the EGR and such, it ran fine, and as soon as I hit the throttle, the EGR system decided to engage and stay engaged at all times, only because the one vacuum line was sending vacuum to the EGR at all times. Simple fix, switched it back. Solved the issue. I felt dumb, but it was a lesson learned, and it also gave me a reason to clean those EGR ports and seafoam the engine.

 

...So much for that.

Here's some helpful info for you guys with swaps and are experiencing code 12.

Check the ECU for A11 - D12 - D22 (sorry OBD1 only)

If any of those wires are missing or damaged, you will get a code 12.

A11 = ground for EGR control solenoid, which opens and closes the EGR valve.

D12 + D22 when checked with a voltmeter will tell if the EGR valve lift sensor is reading properly. APPROXIMATE 1.2v closed 4.3v opened.