Should I change the front hub bearing???
When i am going over 55mph and i press my brakes my steering wheel shakes and i was thinking the bearing might be bad. I was also thinking that it might be that the rotors are warped so new brakepads and rotors. what you guys think?
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I would not change out that bearing unless you know 100% for sure that it's causing the problem. They are a HUGE pita. It's probably something with your rotors or a bad balljoint or tie rod under there. Jack up the car and try shaking the front tires side to side and up and down. If there is any movement, find where it's coming from. If no movement, it's probably your rotors.
I would not change out that bearing unless you know 100% for sure that it's causing the problem. They are a HUGE pita. It's probably something with your rotors or a bad balljoint or tie rod under there. Jack up the car and try shaking the front tires side to side and up and down. If there is any movement, find where it's coming from. If no movement, it's probably your rotors.
Thanks for the info
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if its a wheel bearing; with the vehicle lifted grab the tire at the top and bottom and wiggle. If it does, and goes away when the brake pedal is pressed, then its the wheel bearing
That's why I said be very sure that's what the problem is before attempting to change that out. That was one mistake I will not soon forget. lol!
Warped rotors will actually not cause much of a vibration in the brake pedal. The sliders in the calipers should take up most of the side to side movement if the rotor is warped, resulting in little to no vibration. What will cause the vibration in the brake pedal is if the rotor is not parallel. You can measure this with a micrometer at eight equally spaced points around the circumference of the rotor. There should be no more than .001" difference between the largest and smallest measurement taken.
slide pins will not take up the vibration, they just allow the caliper to float and move. The movement of the pads in and out from the rotor not being parallel (warped) travels through the brake fluid (since fluid is non compressable) and shows itself in the brake pedal.
I did that on my car and then just assumed it was my bearing. I went through HELL changing that mf'er out, only to realize that it was my inner tie rod that was bad all along. I was like, FML!
That's why I said be very sure that's what the problem is before attempting to change that out. That was one mistake I will not soon forget. lol!
That's why I said be very sure that's what the problem is before attempting to change that out. That was one mistake I will not soon forget. lol!
Exactly, the sliding pins will take up the side to side movement resulting in little to no pedal vibration. I have had rotors .005" warped and no vibration at all. That is why OEM specs are:
Paralellism- Max .0006" (yes 6 ten thousanths of an inch)
Warpage- Max .004"
Paralellism- Max .0006" (yes 6 ten thousanths of an inch)
Warpage- Max .004"
I did that on my car and then just assumed it was my bearing. I went through HELL changing that mf'er out, only to realize that it was my inner tie rod that was bad all along. I was like, FML!
That's why I said be very sure that's what the problem is before attempting to change that out. That was one mistake I will not soon forget. lol!
That's why I said be very sure that's what the problem is before attempting to change that out. That was one mistake I will not soon forget. lol!
Im not trying to argue in ths thread but; slide pins allow the calliper to slide left and right, they DO NOT take up the movement or cushion it in anyway. Its metal part, they dont absorb. The movement is transferred back through the fluid and to the pedal.
Yeah that's what I thought too, but my inner tie rod was so bad on the passenger side it was moving up and down and side to side. lol! I just didn't look hard enough and just assumed a bad bearing. Needless to say, I inspect things more carefully now.
gotcha, thanks for sharing!
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