I bought a 2000 GSR for fairly cheap because it isn't running well. Compression check is good. Here's the situation...

Mods...
- Short Ram Intake
- OBD1 ECU (conversion harness) Q31 chip burned out from plugging in IAT plug into EVAP
- Adjustable Cams
- Butterflies taken off intake manifold
- Cat back exhaust w/ test pipe


Problems...
- Really slow and sluggish acceleration when warmed up. A little slow and sometimes jerky when cold.
- After warmed up, voltage drops / fluctuates between 14V and 11.5V
- Running rich
- Cloud of oil smoke when accelerating on highway after coasting in gear. I think from bad valve stems and probably unrelated to acceleration problems unless oil is clogging a sensor.


What I've tried...
- New O2 Sensor
- New IAT Sensor
- Checked plugs on most of the sensors on the motor


Any ideas??? My theory is that it could be the OBDII to OBDI conversion harness. The guy said he constantly took the ECU out to prevent thefts and that makes me think maybe there are some bad connections from all of the movement. I want to make sure there isn't anything else it could be before throwing more money at this problem.

Any help is much appreciated!

 

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I would say good tune. my 99 gsr smokes also but it pulls hard and i have half ur mods

 

Tuning it wont make the acceleration problems go away because it has to be from a bad sensor or wiring problem.

 

So you're running a stock IM? But they took off the secondarie butterflies since your ecu doesnt support it? Or what basemap are you running? The only way to cross off the secondaries on your ecu is if they created a gsr map on a P30 base.

 

So you're saying to chip my P72 with a P30 map? Would this explain the acceleration problems?

 

Or get a P30 and chip it with GSR fuel, VTEC, and timing?

 

compression test and an actual tune. you need to be using a wideband when the af tables are being adjusted. smoke could be just rich or it could be bad rings, bad guides or bad seals, maybe a combination of all 3

 

I installed the butterflies onto my intake manifold. It made no difference what so ever.

I did finally get a code thrown; Code 43 which is Fuel Supply. I lowered my fuel pressure with an adjustable regulator and that helped quite a bit with the acceleration problems as it is warming up... but still is slow once fully warm.

I still have the problem where when the car is fully warmed up the voltage for the whole car fluctuates, often with acceleration. When I am on the throttle above 4,000 RPM the voltage is about 13.8V. When I coast or cruise the voltage drops to about 11.2V. What the heck would be causing that????

 

that's actually normal for the alternator. your problem lies elsewhere. fuel/spark is suspect. bad plugs, plug wires, injector not firing right or a fuel pump that drops pressure under demand but tests okay at idle. just a few of the possibles. if you have access to a fuel gauge with a hose, use it and tap the gauge to your window, go drive and watch what happens when you punch it.

by the way, what are the compression numbers. you should start here first.