Engine Swap, Tips please
I drive a 98 Accord LX 2D Coupe, 2.3 VTEC non ULEV Turbo, 5 SPD Trans..
about a month ago i drove it through a deep puddle not realising how deep it was (couldnt see anything due to heavy rain) sucked up a few gallons of water, stalled out pretty hard and bent some values. the engine is done
So i just picked up an engine from the junkies out of an 01 accord, F23A5, from an automatic..
Now i have a few questions..
1) Where is the proper place for the turbo return line? (i have an oil filter adapter for the feed)
2) My fuel injectors, will the come out with the entire throttle body or do I havto pull them out before I pull the throttle body?
3) Any other tips are very much appreciated
about a month ago i drove it through a deep puddle not realising how deep it was (couldnt see anything due to heavy rain) sucked up a few gallons of water, stalled out pretty hard and bent some values. the engine is done
So i just picked up an engine from the junkies out of an 01 accord, F23A5, from an automatic..
Now i have a few questions..
1) Where is the proper place for the turbo return line? (i have an oil filter adapter for the feed)
2) My fuel injectors, will the come out with the entire throttle body or do I havto pull them out before I pull the throttle body?
3) Any other tips are very much appreciated
It's packed full of goodness if you know how to search and read! 
But I'll try to answer your questions if you still haven't been able to figure them out on your own yet.
1. Oil return line run can be run to your oil pan.
2. Your injectors do not need to be tampered with when you are removing the throttle body.
3. Tips on doing what? Seems like your doing a direct swap F23 turbo for an F23 turbo. You take the old engine out and put the new one back in.
Oh wait, here's a tip. replace the timing and balance shaft belts, water pump and any gaskets that are easy to get at while the engine is out of the car. Running maintenance on a 10 year old engine is much easier to do with it out of the chassis.

But I'll try to answer your questions if you still haven't been able to figure them out on your own yet.
1. Oil return line run can be run to your oil pan.
2. Your injectors do not need to be tampered with when you are removing the throttle body.
3. Tips on doing what? Seems like your doing a direct swap F23 turbo for an F23 turbo. You take the old engine out and put the new one back in.
Oh wait, here's a tip. replace the timing and balance shaft belts, water pump and any gaskets that are easy to get at while the engine is out of the car. Running maintenance on a 10 year old engine is much easier to do with it out of the chassis.
did the swap before reading this, the swap went well i changed the timing/balance-shaft belts, obviously changed the oil pan because it had the turbo oil-return fitting on it already, broke my knock sensor trying to disconnect it from the clip (
)
i ended up taking the A5 motor back to the junkies (its non Vtec
) i told them i NEED a *Vtec, Non-ULEV* motor and even told them the model number of the type i needed (F23A1).. the guy got all confused cuz they are too stupid to figure out where the model number is on the block. So they ended up giving me an F23A4 engine, which they swapped the valve cover with an A1 valve cover trying to be slick so i dont see its a ULEV..
I gave up with those junkies, i needed my car on the road asap.. i did some research on the A4 models and apparently the only difference from the ULEV and Non-ULEV is the ECU and the headers... that was all i can find so i said **** it i dropped it like its hot right into my car all by myself having no experience and she started right up
my only problem is the Vtec isnt engaging, i cant really complain since im still missing my knock sensor.. i dont know if thats the reason for my vtec not working till i get that sensor..
without that Vtec my car is no where close to as fast as it useto be LOL
)i ended up taking the A5 motor back to the junkies (its non Vtec
) i told them i NEED a *Vtec, Non-ULEV* motor and even told them the model number of the type i needed (F23A1).. the guy got all confused cuz they are too stupid to figure out where the model number is on the block. So they ended up giving me an F23A4 engine, which they swapped the valve cover with an A1 valve cover trying to be slick so i dont see its a ULEV.. I gave up with those junkies, i needed my car on the road asap.. i did some research on the A4 models and apparently the only difference from the ULEV and Non-ULEV is the ECU and the headers... that was all i can find so i said **** it i dropped it like its hot right into my car all by myself having no experience and she started right up
my only problem is the Vtec isnt engaging, i cant really complain since im still missing my knock sensor.. i dont know if thats the reason for my vtec not working till i get that sensor..
without that Vtec my car is no where close to as fast as it useto be LOL
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