i got this car from this guy in town for a commuter. i drove it around for two days and one day at work i got on it a little going to lunch and when i stopped at the next stop sign the car was running rough and cutting out when i gave it a little gas. so i managed to pull it off the road and i shut it off. the timing belt felt loose at the cam sprocket. so i think either the timing belt tensioner just failed and it jumped a tooth or two or i just toasted my motor. so i get it home and start to rip it apart. the timing was off a few notches. i pulled the belt off completly and found tdc. changed the water pump (stripped out the small bolt hole ontop next to the alternator bracket) who knows. i wanna see if it runs. was going to put on the new tensioner but the ****ing bolt doesnt fit in the new tensioner. so i was put on the old one for just a test fit and the timing belt doesnt get tight. the tensioner bottoms out on the bolt before i get the slack out. anyways...

after doing some homework. i know the block is a d15b2 but i have no idea what the head is. i dont think its the stock head. but it still has the DPFI intake on it and the guy put a header on it. the fuel economy was great and i just need a little help here.

thanks.
scott

 

yea that's definitely not a stock head lol. i can't see a vtec solenoid so if i had to guess i'd say its from a d16y7. if you search for d-series head codes and match the code to the one listed on the front of your head you will be able to figure out exactly what it is. as far as the timing belt goes, try using a d16y7 belt. the stock b2 belt won't work with that cyl head. i don't know why your tensioner isn't working though.. must be the wrong part.

 

it says p2f-ha-5

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/i-need-hondas-b-series-cylinder-head-codes-2628949/

 

that absolutely looks like a y7 head, but p2f-ha-5 doesn't seem to be on any D series list i looked at. I'm guessing get that timing belt
Love how its still got DPFI. How good is the mileage?

 

i put about 300+ miles on it in about 2 days. must of been at least 35-40. once i get this fixed ill give u an exact figure. still has a half tank i believe. haha

so the year code says "03" so 2003? so im guessing its from a 2003 civic? what a trip.

 

well i'm thinking its a y7 head. Unless there is a vtec solenoid hiding behind that dizzy. But then again i don't think DPFI and vtec would would nicely, so again d16y7.

 

definitely a y7 head

 

thanks guys. im gonna get a timing belt for a 96 civic dx.

 

so i get everything back together and start it up. vroom.....ping pang. so i shut it back off. the timing belt is tight on one end and pretty loose on tensioner side. im thinking the head is toast. so i go on the internet and find another d15b2 on the internet for 30 bux. i pick it up bring it home and start to rip it apart. i wouldnt run this block but i think i can get away with running the head. i checked the timing on the engine. seemed fine. the timing mark on the crank lined up with the up mark on the cam.

im just wondering what i may have done wrong while installing the belt on the first engine. could i have been on the wrong stroke of the crank in relation to the cam? or was it already ****ed up from it jumping the belt.

well ill start tearing the head off of the engine in the car next week. ill take some pictures soon thanks for all the help so far guys..

scott

 

[QUOTE=im just wondering what i may have done wrong while installing the belt on the first engine. could i have been on the wrong stroke of the crank in relation to the cam? or was it already ****ed up from it jumping the belt.[/QUOTE]

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/dohc-zc-no-start-searched-everywhere-got-pics-2745697/

Check out my thread...especially the second page, theres a pic of how far off my cams were, and i reset them and my engine ran today...long enough to start leaking coolant but none-the less. i also had problems idling because hydrocarbons have built up in the intake and fouled out my idle control or something, thats what my instructor at school thinks anyway; it did rotate backwards forcing unburned air/fuel into the intake chamber...i figured it would make the idle surge up and down, as though there is a vacuum leak. but then again that was the a6 mani with fast idle solenoid on my y7.

anyway, after i got the time set dead on tdc, and tight all the way around, it started up and ran, at higher rpms it even sounded good.

 

so you think im timing is still off. the cam rotates once for every 2 rotations of the crankshaft? so...say the crank goes around and lines up with the timing mark. is piston 1 not at the top of its total travel? what if you go around a second time? is it at the top again? how do you determine which one is correct?
maybe im over thinking this ****.

cheers
scott

 

d15 block with d16 head from my experence youll never get the timing right with this set up unless you buy a adjustable cam gear

 

your cam gear is different than mine but it has notches to the left and right like yours...they almost line up with the part of cover behind the gear, and the "up" imprinted at the top.




ur going to have to physically check it...if you remove ur valve cover, spark plug in no. 1 hole....closest to the cam gear and observe the valves while rotating the cam in relation to the crank.




You can use a reall long flathead screwdriver or similar piece of metal, even a straight piece of a metal clothes hanger to see when the no. 1 piston is at the very top dead center of its travel.

make sure the metal contacts the piston and stays, dont over lap the plug wall and snap the tool into the chamber****




if you have the cam at the top, when you turn the crank half way(180degrees), the cam a quarter of the way(90degrees), the exhaust valves for no. 1 open, in the pic above.



it as you turn the crank 180degrees again back to top for it, the cam will be 180 degrees, and the exhaust valves for no.1 will be closed.



turn the crank another 180degrees, and the intake valves open. the crank mark is at the bottom again.

turn it back to the top and the intake valves close and with the piston at top dead center and the cam at the top just after intake valves close and in-between when the exhaust valves open.

 

the other head i got i pulled off another d15b2. if you see the pics the i had my 1/4" extention in the spark plug hole. and found absolute TDC for piston #1. then i took a picture of the crank sprocket and the key mark was at 12 oclock...

i have yet to put the other head on. im going to spend tomorrow after work cleaning the donor head up and ripping the timing cover back off and running it without it until i figure out the problem. check cam timing check valves check it again and check it again. then if it looks good. ill try to start it again see what happens... ill post again tomorrow with pictures... thanks for all your help so far.


scott

 

ok what am i not getting? the the crank key mark should be up with the mark on the crank sprocket lined up with the arrow. about the 1-2 oclock position. then on the cam sprocket up should be up and the 9 and 3 oclock marks should be lined up with the head i also have the 7 oclock mark on the sprocket but im not going by that. i put the harmonic balancer back on and the mark doesnt line up on the harmonic balancer.

someone call me stupid. haha

scott

 

ok well seccess! the deal with the tensioner was the dude ripped out the threads on the bolt and tapped it with a bigger bolt. so now everytime we need a tensioner we have to take a die grinder and mill out the inside to make the bolt fit. i have the timing right. sounds great. i tried to start it a few times but the tensioner kept breaking loose. so i swaped the spring from another engine i got (lil shorter) and tightened the **** out of the bolt. ill bust it all loose again and thread lock tensioner bolt. does the crank pulley bolt need thread lock?

anyway thanks to everyone for you help

scott