hey guys.

i have a issue here on a engine and wanted to ask some people with experience on boosted honda engines.
here the setup:

-B18c6 darton sleeved (83mm)
-CP pistons 9:1 CR
-Clevite 77 bearings
-B16a bone stock head
-NGK iridium 9's
-R.L.D ramhorn
-GT3082R
-3" custom exhaust
-2,5" IC piping
-700hp intercooler
-1000 ID injectors
-walbro intank
-crome tuned

here my issue:
from the first start-up the engine was "clicking". like it should be normal when engine is cold. for me it was ok cuz it disappeared when it was warmed-up.
but with the time it went worse. till it was there on totally warmed-up engine. that was after ~4000miles and 4 oil changes. i just opened the oil pan to see if there is something wrong. and i found scratched in the 1st cylinder. so i took off the head to see.





then we took the pistons out to see the damage.
1st cylinder is like this ONLY on front side of the piston:


all 3 other pistons are like new and look really brand new.

here the sleeve:




the tune was nice and safe. like 11,5-11,6 @ WOT and 14,5 @ crusing. EGT never came over 804°C and oil was 100-110°C maximum.

maybe you guys have some good ideas for me. or somebody with simmalar issues.

thanks

 

From the looks of the side skirt I've seen something similar and at the time the issue was piston to wall clearance. What's yours set to?

 

i don't really trust in the engine builder any more but he told me 0.09mm on all 4 cylinders. thats like CP wants it.

thanks

 

damn dude... does he offer any sort of warranty on the motors he builds?

 

BLACK DEATH

Been there before. PTW was too tight and you had a problem with heat in that cylinder.

 

they offer garanty nd warranty on their work but they tell me that is my fault. they say my tune was bad. on the pics they told me: WAY TO LEAN. then 1 week later i went there without appointment and the same guy told me: WAY TO RICH!!!!
really sad. then i brought a... how you say in english? the plate to bolt on like the head. so the sleeves get the pressure like its completly mounted... understand me?

now they say: sleeve #1 gets 0.06mm unround by bolting on the plate. they normally always use it, but had none for my engine... blabla

what should i do? are you all the same opinion that its wrong clearance?

thanks for fast responding

 

Well since the pistons are scrap, bore the motor over to 84mm and find yourself a good machine shop ask here on H-T about someone and have them do the correct Piston to Wall clearance and it's done! Ask them to pay for it to get repaired by someone who know's what they're doing. Bottom line you paid for a service to be done correct and if they can't then they should pay someone else to do it for them. Good luck Pal!

 

ok thanks a lot. how can i prove that it was the wrong clearance? cuz they say its my fault. i just want to have some technical info before i do any juristic steps.

thanks

 

IMO if 3 pistons are in good shape and only 1 is trashed then its more then likely NOT the builders fault. I would find it hard to beleave that he bored 3 right and 1 wrong. I think that cyl. went lean. Maybe an injector issue.?

 

injectors were new too. is there a possibility of a 50% damaged injector? normally its ok or broken. even the chambers are all the same color. no acceleration porblems. idle 100%.
IMO a damaged injector will burn valves or melt pistons....

greets

 

I agree...Plus what I can tell from the piston is the black death started at the ring pack. Normally when p/w is too tight it shows real black at the bottom of the piston and gets lighter as it goes up since pistons are tapered. Does the other side of the piston look the same? If it is too tight both sides would also have to look like the one posted. I kinda wonder if it has anything to do with the stock valve springs not keeping up and cause a ign. issue?

 

i don't want the builder beeing the black peter. i just want to find out what could be the problem... don't want to build it up again and get the same mess a second time.

here the backside of the piston:






IMO a spark issue or knock would look like this. am i right?


greets

 

what was the p to w in inches, im not to big on metric clearances lol

 

No. Not in all cases.

 

0.00354" i guess^^

 

Washed the walls?

 

Three and a half is not too tight on p2w. Start looking somewhere else.

 

Did you put the block guard In or after the Machine shop did there work???

I seen someone on here before put the block guard in after the machine work and looked the same from what i've been told is to put the block in then do your machine work...

 

if its only on the intake side of the piston id say it leaned out.. idk what you mean by "frontside"

 

It's a sleeved block, no need for a blockguard..........

 

The reason I think it did it got to hot from being lean. The piston to expand and run the wall. Have you checked injector and fuel rail?

 

Black death... Like said previously p2w and heat. I would say .0035" is waay too tight for a CP, if the car gets hot lapped at all your in trouble. Happened to me before. I would loosen that up a little bit

 

i search/found on HT and bought myself a cp piston and CP said PTW should be 0.004 and found out that some even run 0.0045.

 

no its on the exhaust side.
i can't believe in leanin out cuz it ran perfect. no problems in idle, acceleration or bouncy AFR. it was just 100% nicely.

is there a piston that need less PTW? i want to run 700whp+ this year and need it to be rebuilt. any good deals for me to get my goal with low PTW so i can start it up every day in winter without lot of noise?

thanks

 

This is who you want to send the block too and have Mike fix it for you. He knows what's he's doing.