Amp. install ? on 00 Si.
Oops, I messed up on the title.
Anyways, Would a Bazooka tube with a built in amp be a good addition to an ITR stock stereo?
The stock stereo is horrible but it seems like just a small amount of base added to the stereo would make the sound decent.
Also, is it easy to disconnect and remove the Bazooka when the car is taken to the track? Are there any other brands besides Bazooka that should be considered?
[Modified by Bagel Williams, 1:25 PM 9/9/2002]
[Modified by Bagel Williams, 1:25 PM 9/9/2002]
[Modified by Bagel Williams, 1:27 PM 9/9/2002]
Anyways, Would a Bazooka tube with a built in amp be a good addition to an ITR stock stereo?
The stock stereo is horrible but it seems like just a small amount of base added to the stereo would make the sound decent.
Also, is it easy to disconnect and remove the Bazooka when the car is taken to the track? Are there any other brands besides Bazooka that should be considered?
[Modified by Bagel Williams, 1:25 PM 9/9/2002]
[Modified by Bagel Williams, 1:25 PM 9/9/2002]
[Modified by Bagel Williams, 1:27 PM 9/9/2002]
Bazooka is good for sound, weight and it is easy to remove. For a little more, you can also purchase the Infinity Basslink. Also removeable, with a little more power than the standard powered bazooka tube, it also utilizes two 10" woofers, one powered one passive. Very good sound on both.
If you are installing the setup yourself, make sure you run the power directly to the battery, with an inline fuse less than 12" from the connection at the battery. Do not forget to use a rubber or plastic grommet at the firewall where the power wire enters the engine bay.
If you are installing the setup yourself, make sure you run the power directly to the battery, with an inline fuse less than 12" from the connection at the battery. Do not forget to use a rubber or plastic grommet at the firewall where the power wire enters the engine bay.
I would skip the Bazoookas....I've never really cared for the sound that much.
It's a 12" passive on the Infinity if memory serves. I think that the Basslink comes in at around 25lbs...if you really need that extra 0.025 seconds in the quarter, then you can remove it, otherwise I think you would be fine leaving it installed. To remove it, just disconnect the RCA, power and ground. Make sure you also remove the underhood fuse.
One thing to note about OEM honda radios is that the head unit is severely underpowered. Also, trying to have those wimply stock speakers play full range is a nightmare.
If you are concerned with weight, and you want to retain the stock speakers I think that the Basslink is a good way to go. If it was me, I would also pick up an aftermarket headunit with an built in crossover on the internal amplifier. This allows you to do 2 things:
1. You will get increased SQ and volume out of your factory speakers. The added power will do a lot to the sound quality on the OEM speakers. By crossing them over, you will also keep them from bottoming out on the bass notes, therefore, you can go louder with them.
2. Instead of clipping the rear speaker wires, you can run RCA wires to the new subwoofer. Not only do they transfer a cleaner signal, you will most likely be able to control sub volum from the dash, and you won't have to worry about cutting any factory wiring (a big plus in my book)
I think an aftermarket head would really fix some of the problems with the factory stereo and give you some extra grin factor. I ran an aftermarket head on my stock Si speakers with an amp and a single 12" sub for a bit. While it wasn't an audiophile system by any means...it kept me pretty happy.
Hope that helps.
It's a 12" passive on the Infinity if memory serves. I think that the Basslink comes in at around 25lbs...if you really need that extra 0.025 seconds in the quarter, then you can remove it, otherwise I think you would be fine leaving it installed. To remove it, just disconnect the RCA, power and ground. Make sure you also remove the underhood fuse.
One thing to note about OEM honda radios is that the head unit is severely underpowered. Also, trying to have those wimply stock speakers play full range is a nightmare.
If you are concerned with weight, and you want to retain the stock speakers I think that the Basslink is a good way to go. If it was me, I would also pick up an aftermarket headunit with an built in crossover on the internal amplifier. This allows you to do 2 things:
1. You will get increased SQ and volume out of your factory speakers. The added power will do a lot to the sound quality on the OEM speakers. By crossing them over, you will also keep them from bottoming out on the bass notes, therefore, you can go louder with them.
2. Instead of clipping the rear speaker wires, you can run RCA wires to the new subwoofer. Not only do they transfer a cleaner signal, you will most likely be able to control sub volum from the dash, and you won't have to worry about cutting any factory wiring (a big plus in my book)
I think an aftermarket head would really fix some of the problems with the factory stereo and give you some extra grin factor. I ran an aftermarket head on my stock Si speakers with an amp and a single 12" sub for a bit. While it wasn't an audiophile system by any means...it kept me pretty happy.
Hope that helps.
thanks for looking into this for me Todd 
I wonder- if I replace the stock head unit with an after-market one, how will that affect my power antenna? I have spliced into the wire that sends the power to the antenna when the radio gets turned on and off (which is when it raises and lowers the antenna with the stock head unit) and added a switch so I can leave the antenna lowered except for those rare times I listen to the radio.

I wonder- if I replace the stock head unit with an after-market one, how will that affect my power antenna? I have spliced into the wire that sends the power to the antenna when the radio gets turned on and off (which is when it raises and lowers the antenna with the stock head unit) and added a switch so I can leave the antenna lowered except for those rare times I listen to the radio.
aftermarket head units supply power to the antenna only when the radio is on...it should be a non-issue, just connect up the wiring harness as per the instructions and you are good to go.
Your memory serves incorrect, it IS a 10" passive radiator and 10" woofer in the basslink.
Between the Bazooka and the Basslink I would choose the basslink from personal experience, but the bazooka works fine for its light weight purpose.
I would recomend an aftermarket unit as well, but only after hearing the sub setup with your current head unit. And you can add passive crossovers to your stock speakers to eliminate some of the lower frequencies that mid range speakers can not produce without buying an aftermarket head unit. A passive crossover (capacitor) will not keep the stock head unit from producing these frequencies like a built in X-over in an aftermarket, but it will help the improve the longevity of the stock speakers, and improve the sound quality if played at high volumes.
Work with what 'cha got, upgrade if needed.
Between the Bazooka and the Basslink I would choose the basslink from personal experience, but the bazooka works fine for its light weight purpose.
I would recomend an aftermarket unit as well, but only after hearing the sub setup with your current head unit. And you can add passive crossovers to your stock speakers to eliminate some of the lower frequencies that mid range speakers can not produce without buying an aftermarket head unit. A passive crossover (capacitor) will not keep the stock head unit from producing these frequencies like a built in X-over in an aftermarket, but it will help the improve the longevity of the stock speakers, and improve the sound quality if played at high volumes.
Work with what 'cha got, upgrade if needed.
Your memory serves incorrect, it IS a 10" passive radiator and 10" woofer in the basslink.
....oh well, can't remember everything. At least I got the shipping weight close (22 lbs)!While the passives are a good idea, I personally wouldn't waste time on them when you still have a 5W per channel head unit. You would still have an underpowered system, passives or not. I guess this could be a last resort, but by all means, if it's in the budget, go for a head.
Just my $0.02.
[Modified by rcurley55, 9:01 AM 9/10/2002]
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