Civic DX Automatic Hatchback, 160K miles.

I started the car and drove about 200 yards before it died. Now it wont start, it cranks but no start at all, absolutely nothing.

No error codes showing.

I confirmed spark on all four wires. I pulled the fuel injection and confirmed they sprayed gas when cranking. I confirmed the distributor rotor was aligned with cylinder #1 when the timing was at TDC.

I dont know what else to do beyond spark, fuel, and timing.

Is it possible to still get spark if my ignitor or coil is bad? Is it possible for the fuel injectors to spray if main relay is bad?

I swapped the tranny out 3 weeks ago, everything's been fine since then.

Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

 

Update:

I tested the coil with a multimeter. I got the following readings:

primary resistance: 1.3 Ohms spec is 0.6-0.8 Ohms
secondary resistance: 11,450 Ohms spec is 9760-14,640 Ohms

Could the higher than spec primary resistance be causing a weak spark? (I can see a spark when I test the plugs while cranking but I dont know how strong its supposed to look)

Also I had the igniter tested at autozone and it failed. He tested a new igniter off the shelf and it passed so I know the test was done correctly.

I will replace the igniter and update again...but should I also replace the coil? Anyone use aftermarket for these parts?

Thanks

 

I've used msd external coils, and an external igniter from another company, but OEM is best (directly from honda, not from kragen) just stick with it.

 

Update:

I got a new honda igniter and coil. I replaced the igniter first since it failed testing at autozone. On the first crank it tried to turn over but then back to a dry crank.

Ok, so maybe the coil is bad too? The high primary resistance reading that I mentioned before might be part of the problem...so I decide to take the readings on the new coil with a multimeter, and here's what I got:

primary resistance: 1.3 Ohms spec is 0.6-0.8 Ohms
secondary resistance: 11,998 Ohms spec is 9760-14,640 Ohms

What the ?!#$ it gave the same reading as my old coil.

So I didn't plan on replacing it, thought I would save the $80 and return the coil. I mentioned it to my wife and she said put the coil in anyways at least it saves having to likely change it later.

I put the new coil in, and it started right up.

I still dont understand why I get the 1.3 Ohm primary resistance reading on the new coil since that is supposed to be out of spec.

Anyone else ever measure this?

Also, I also noticed the secondary winding terminal on the old coil looked like the dizzy cap pin had melted the plastic below the terminal enough to see a groove, but the terminal didn't look affected.

Anyways, simple common fix with igniter and coil... And also, always listen to your wife!

 

did you check plugs, wires, rator cap ,timing....

 

Tryed the main relay yet? Located under the driver side dash. By the fuse box. The biggest relay I believe.

 

Was my post was too long and people didn't read it?

Because it says I got the car running again!

The igniter failed, so I replaced it, still didnt start so I replace the coil and it started.

Yes, prior to this I checked plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel, main relay, etc.

Anyone get the high primary resistance reading on a new coil I mentioned?