Camber/Toe settings???
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From: "That one guy with that one car" Kennewick WA
For those of you who track your cars, What camber settings and toe are you guys using? It's not my daily so don't be shy. My setup consist of koni's on stock springs lowered 25mm, hawk hp+ F/ Hps R on star specs. I mostly autocross BTW.
What tires will you be using?
If R comps, 3 degrees negative camber.
If street tires, 2 degrees negative camber.
I personally like stock toe settings so I'll let someone else give there suggestions on that.
If R comps, 3 degrees negative camber.
If street tires, 2 degrees negative camber.
I personally like stock toe settings so I'll let someone else give there suggestions on that.
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From: "That one guy with that one car" Kennewick WA
I dont even know OE settings
-2 front, -1 rear is a decent starting point.
On the toe you'll want to start with a slight amount of toe out in the front, and 0 or slightly toed in for the rear. This is a good neutral starting point for a "relatively" inexperienced driver.
Spend some time in the car and pay attention to what the car is doing, and also how the tires look.
For track days and street tires I typically like to set the car up to maximize tire wear and not necessarily go for maximum performance, afterall it isn't a race.
Reading tire temps across the tire is also a pretty good indicator of how a particular set-up is working the tires. Again, I normally look to equalize temps across the tire as to maximize the tire wear.
Have fun.
I'm somewhere around -2.2 in the front and about -1.5 in the rear for camber. I was running Nitto NT01s, but this year will be running Hoosiers. I'll be heading more negative with those settings this year.
For toe, I run a little bit of toe out in the front to help with turn in and zero in the rear. I don't have aggressive springs in the rear, though. If you have aggressive rear springs (higher rates than your fronts), you may want to look at a slight amount of toe in to keep the back end under you.
Whatever you do, do not transfer and autocross alignment to the track. I'm not sure if you're in this situation, but I would certainly not recommend it.
For toe, I run a little bit of toe out in the front to help with turn in and zero in the rear. I don't have aggressive springs in the rear, though. If you have aggressive rear springs (higher rates than your fronts), you may want to look at a slight amount of toe in to keep the back end under you.
Whatever you do, do not transfer and autocross alignment to the track. I'm not sure if you're in this situation, but I would certainly not recommend it.
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From: "That one guy with that one car" Kennewick WA
I'm somewhere around -2.2 in the front and about -1.5 in the rear for camber. I was running Nitto NT01s, but this year will be running Hoosiers. I'll be heading more negative with those settings this year.
For toe, I run a little bit of toe out in the front to help with turn in and zero in the rear. I don't have aggressive springs in the rear, though. If you have aggressive rear springs (higher rates than your fronts), you may want to look at a slight amount of toe in to keep the back end under you.
Whatever you do, do not transfer and autocross alignment to the track. I'm not sure if you're in this situation, but I would certainly not recommend it.
For toe, I run a little bit of toe out in the front to help with turn in and zero in the rear. I don't have aggressive springs in the rear, though. If you have aggressive rear springs (higher rates than your fronts), you may want to look at a slight amount of toe in to keep the back end under you.
Whatever you do, do not transfer and autocross alignment to the track. I'm not sure if you're in this situation, but I would certainly not recommend it.
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From: "That one guy with that one car" Kennewick WA
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