So I was putting together my block the other day and after I was done I tried to spin the crank and it just didn't budge at all. I then used a longer breaker bar and it took a lot of strength to get it spinning. I didn't think anything of it and it sat like that for 2 days. When I try to spin it again it just won't move. I use so much force it almost tip the motor stand over. I had to attach a jack handle to the breaker bar to get it going. Now I was getting worried. I then consulted a mechanic friend of mine and he said I might have over torqued the mains. He also said the bearings might be ruined too. I told him it was torqued to factory specs and the rod bolts was torqued using a stretch gauge. So mostly likely it is the crank but I had a machine shop check it before hand. So I was like it has to be the rod bolts because it was also my first time using a stretch gauge too and it just didn't feel right when I was tightening the rod bolts. So earlier today I loosen up the rod bolts just to see if the crank would spin freely. Sure enough it did. So did I mess up the rod bearings? Should I still use the same rod bolts? Oh, and I turned the crank about 20 revolutions over torqued like that.

 

Sounds like either your bearings are for undersize crank journals or you had the rod ends resized and the machine shop set them up incorrectly. Your bearings probly were damaged by forcing the motor to turn. When assembling a motor you should turn it after each part is installed to make sure it spins smoothly.

 

you might have one of the rod caps backwards, or insufficient clearance.

 

Remove all the caps, and the crank and check for any damage to the bearing halves in the block. Check the crank journals for any visible signs of damage or scoring. Are they all seated okay? Squirt a dab of assembly lube on the bearing halves in the block and then put the crank back into position. Put on the number One and Five end caps. They should all be pointing toward the crank snout. Tighten them down snug, but not to spec. Insert the crank pulley bolt and rotate the assembly. S-M-o-o-o-o-o-t-h? If you get any binding, STOP. Is everything the stock size? Was the crank ground down? Are the bearings oversized? Do the clearances check out with plastigauge?
If everything is turning smoothly, add the number 3 cap, then 2 and 4. A few drops of assembly lube each time. Rotate it after each addition to the rotating assembly. Same process with the connecting rods. The caps are matched to their rod and should all face the same way. Put a little piece of fuel hose over the end of the con rod bolts so you don't scratch the bore or the crank journal when you are fishing them in.

That's all the big stuff. Everything should be operating room immaculate. You should be in no hurry. Also replace all the seals while you are there.

 

run a finger nail across the rod bearings and crank journal, if it catches ur finger nail then u are most likely gonna need to replace something!

 

What about the rod bolts and rods? They are eagle rods with arp bolts. Do you think I warped the big end? Can I still use the rod bolts?

 

In my opinion, it depends on what kind of build you want. If the motor will be pushed to its limits, like someone already said here, it will only be as strong as your weakest point.