Broken Window Switch
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 717
Likes: 2
From: Mission Unspoken, Destination Unknown
Any and all help would be appreciated. Today I put my windows down and when I went to put them back up, the driver's side window wouldn't go up (the switch on the door panel broke). So, I removed the door panel, removed the switch from the door panel, and attempted to activate the toggle switch by applying pressure to the internal mechanisms, just as the plastic switch would--this didn't work (the window still wouldn't go up). Then, I unplugged the wiring harness from the switch console and looked at the wires. I saw some electrical tape wrapped around a Blue/Yellow wire (blue with yellow line) and a Blue/Green wire (blue with green line), and found a break in the wires from the harness to the door, with the copper wires twisted together (which were wrapped in electrical tape)...so I attempted to connect them back a little better, attaching the blue/yellow to the blue/yellow, and blue/green to the blue/green. Then, after I plugged the harness back in, neither window would budge. Frustrated, I looked up a wiring diagram, and discovered that the blue/yellow and blue/green were for the passenger side window up/down. I attempted to wire them up again, this time using two different kinds of connecters (one of them can be seen in the picture below)...and still no luck. Now, I can't get either window to budge. I obviously need a new switch, but as for the wiring, what's the deal?...I haven't checked my fuses, one could possibly be blown, but I was hoping somebody would have a better idea...any advice? Thanks.
Here's what I've found using a reputable source (to test for Integra coupe):
MASTER SWITCH / TEST (HATCHBACK)
The driver's switch is combined with the control unit so you cannot isolate the switch to test it. Instead, run the master switch input test procedures No. 1, 2, 3, and 5. If the tests are normal, the driver's switch must be faulty.

MASTER SWITCH / TEST (HATCHBACK)
- Remove the driver's door panel.
- Disconnect the 10-P connector from the switch.
- Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
The driver's switch is combined with the control unit so you cannot isolate the switch to test it. Instead, run the master switch input test procedures No. 1, 2, 3, and 5. If the tests are normal, the driver's switch must be faulty.
Part number for master switch: 35750ST7A01ZA - $241.77
Part number for assistant switch: 35760ST7003ZA - 91.77
On this site there is a major price difference for the same OEM part: http://oemacuraparts.com/partlocator...?siteid=214055
Part number for assistant switch: 35760ST7003ZA - 91.77
On this site there is a major price difference for the same OEM part: http://oemacuraparts.com/partlocator...?siteid=214055
is the window switch physically damaged? its unlikely that you would have a wiring issue and a switch happen at the exact same time. it looks like someones really hacked up that door harness. make sure the wires you reconnected are the same. check the whole harness, there could be other areas where some one has cut wires (electrical tape is the biggest clue). if all your wires are good check fuses. when you started moving the wires around, you probably just shorted something out or created an open. that would explain why both windows stopped working
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 717
Likes: 2
From: Mission Unspoken, Destination Unknown
I ordered a new driver's side window switch...hopefully all I need to do is replace a fuse and plug in the new switch...otherwise, i'll be back here again with the same issue...thanks for the help so far guys...if anyone else has anything to add, please do.
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