help. crankshaft clicks??
ok i got my b18b1 engine back from the machine shop, installed new acl race sereies standard bearings, main bearings. i torqued the main caps down to spec, and used lucas assembely lube, and i plastigauge and everything was good. now i turn the crank and i hear slight click or two, sounds like the assembely lube, but not sure. i also installed the thrust washers with the groove facing outward.... let me know..
ok i got my b18b1 engine back from the machine shop, installed new acl race sereies standard bearings, main bearings. i torqued the main caps down to spec, and used lucas assembely lube, and i plastigauge and everything was good. now i turn the crank and i hear slight click or two, sounds like the assembely lube, but not sure. i also installed the thrust washers with the groove facing outward.... let me know..
i just checked the thrust washers and the look fine.. do i have the main caps in the right order ... here is how i have them with the
flywheel<<54321 >>oil pump>
with the arrows facing the oil pump side of the engine....
i checked clearance, dry with plastigauge and it was .004.
i am not that far in the build yet, i just have tha crankshaft, mainseal, water pump and oil pump installed.
flywheel<<54321 >>oil pump>
with the arrows facing the oil pump side of the engine....
i checked clearance, dry with plastigauge and it was .004.
i am not that far in the build yet, i just have tha crankshaft, mainseal, water pump and oil pump installed.
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It's been awhile since I've built a motor, but .004 seems to be about 2 times what it should be? My guess is the clicking is the rod going up and down on the crankshaft.
i used the blue type, its measured in inches... the plastigauge had a lil bigger smear than the .004 reading, but i was guessing.. i need to use the green plastigauge.... is alot, but the crank spins pretty good, and i think it might be the thrust washers making those quiet clicking noise
Factory spec is .001-.0025. You have excessive bearing clearence. What color were the stock bearings? That will tell you if you should be running standard or oversized bearings. You could try the standard duraglide acl's there a little bit thicker than the race bearings.
they checked out ok. they were at .002, i was using the wront plastigauge, the blue one which only measures from .004 to .009..... everything is ok.. the thursts are good, and i think the clicking is the assembely lube as it gets smeared on the bearing hole....do you guys think that .016 ring gap for the top ring and .017 for the top is sufficent for gapping the piston rings, for a 81.5mm bore,,, 450plus turbo build?
they checked out ok. they were at .002, i was using the wront plastigauge, the blue one which only measures from .004 to .009..... everything is ok.. the thursts are good, and i think the clicking is the assembely lube as it gets smeared on the bearing hole....do you guys think that .016 ring gap for the top ring and .017 for the top is sufficent for gapping the piston rings, for a 81.5mm bore,,, 450plus turbo build?
how would you guys sugjest breaking in a motor with pretty much brand new everything.... should i just put on the headers and drive it na for 1000 miles, then slap on the turbo injectors and tune?...
1. Your pistons/rings should have come with end gap recommendations. For a turbo motor you'll probably want 0.020 inch on the top ring and 0.021 to 0.022 inch on the 2nd. Oil ring rails can be as tight as 0.015 inch.
2. I usually measure crank end play with a dial indicator. It's kind of difficult to insert a feeler gauge into the clearance since it is on the top half of the bearing position.
3. Startup and break-in ...
a. Put oil in
b. Disconnect distributor connector, unplug injectors, remove spark plugs and spin motor over with starter to get some oil pressure. 30 seconds ought to be enough. Reconnect distributor and injector connectors and install plugs.
c. Light it up. Look for leaks. Listen for bad noises.
d. Let her warm up.
e. Drive it normally. Once you're satisfied everything is OK, load it up with some boost. You don't want to beat it to death yet, but you need to load it to ensure the rings seat.
f. Change the oil filter after a 100 miles. Cut it open and look for metal. You should not have any shiny particles in there. If you see brass, that is your turbo bearings and your turbo wants more oil (my personal experience).
g. Change the oil when it needs it. A turbo will thin the oil more rapidly than normal. So 500 to 1,000 miles to the first change is reasonable.
4. Build it yourself? Why not? Somebody in this country needs to know how to do it rather than just talk about it.
2. I usually measure crank end play with a dial indicator. It's kind of difficult to insert a feeler gauge into the clearance since it is on the top half of the bearing position.
3. Startup and break-in ...
a. Put oil in
b. Disconnect distributor connector, unplug injectors, remove spark plugs and spin motor over with starter to get some oil pressure. 30 seconds ought to be enough. Reconnect distributor and injector connectors and install plugs.
c. Light it up. Look for leaks. Listen for bad noises.
d. Let her warm up.
e. Drive it normally. Once you're satisfied everything is OK, load it up with some boost. You don't want to beat it to death yet, but you need to load it to ensure the rings seat.
f. Change the oil filter after a 100 miles. Cut it open and look for metal. You should not have any shiny particles in there. If you see brass, that is your turbo bearings and your turbo wants more oil (my personal experience).
g. Change the oil when it needs it. A turbo will thin the oil more rapidly than normal. So 500 to 1,000 miles to the first change is reasonable.
4. Build it yourself? Why not? Somebody in this country needs to know how to do it rather than just talk about it.
fr the hp range your looking for .018 is suffecient. its better to run loose ring gap then tight. loose means you might burn some oil (i dont burn any with .023) and tight means the righs overexpand andpush the pistons on an angle and destroy the piston and sleeve



