Alright, so swapped an ls-vtec in the CRX. I'm running a GSR basemap on a chipped P28.

First time I had it running, mechanical timing and distributor timing were fine, I just had to retard the distributor all the way.

Had to take it all apart for a couple BS reasons, put it all back together the same way it was, but when I retarded the distributor all the way and it's still not retarded enough... Mechanical timing is perfect. Any ideas?

 

if you are having to retard the distributor, then I think mechanical timing is not 100% on. On our last LS/V our distributor was not retarded (i always laugh when I type about that, lol) at all. you might be off a tooth. try setting your timing belt back 1 tooth.

 

I mean...I can take pictures if it wasn't so dark. The two notches on the cam gears are pointing directly at each other. The notch on the crank pulley is pointing directly at the notch on the timing belt cover...well it's about 1-2mm forward of it but definitely not a full tooth off, and I can move the crank pulley back every so slightly so it lines up with the notch and the cam gears are still where they should be.

 

did you use a timing light? It will be able to tell you how far off you are.

 

how did you set the block at lsv is the block milled if so it may be off with a lsv it might be in your interest to get good quality adjustable cam gears to time it like EFRue57 your may be a couple of teeth off

 

Yep used a timing light. When it flashes, the middle timing mark is about an inch in front of the notch on the timing belt cover.

Why I don't understand was how I was able to get it timed properly last time, and nothing has changed this time I put it together, but I can't retard the distributor enough.

Even though cams and crank pulley all line up properly, would it hurt to turn the crank back a tooth to where the cam/crank don't line up and see how it runs?

I may just adjust the whole basemap back a few degrees although I don't see why I should have to when it worked perfectly fine last time...

 

did you jump the connector next to the blower motor on the passenger side of the car when you set timing using the timing light?

 

Yep actually have the wires ran to the engine bay to a switch just to make it easier.

The ECU tries to compensate but can't quite it it there.

Was suggested I double check that the cams aren't mixed and that the key in the pulley is there/good, but open to any other ideas

 

when using the timing light, did it have a digital read out so you could be exact, or did you just line it up the best you could by eyeballing it?

 

No digital readout or any adjustments possible, just a basic timing light. Have a mark on the middle BTDC mark on the crank pulley.

 

Just to put the "mechanical timing is off" thing to rest, here are pictures:





Unless I'm completely wrong, that's how it should be, which is why I don't understand retarding the distributor all the way and it still not being enough...

Yes I'm jumping the service connector. It's more stable than without it jumped but still about an inch forward of the notch on the timing belt cover. I know that it's properly jumped because the CEL is solid when I start the car.

When using the timing light, the BTDC notch is showing up about half the distance between TDC and the BTDC notch.

 

This seems too obvious, but I'll mention it anyways. Have you made sure your spark plug wires are routed correctly?

 

is their n e way the rotor some how moved or slid inside the dizzy like as if the screw hole ovaled ???? it would still work but it would deff throw the timeing off

 

Rotor is where it should be and tight.

I have spark plugs like this:

34
12 4 3 2 1

I took the cap off the distributor to make sure the rotor was near where the cyl 1 wire is when it's at the btdc mark.

 

what oil pump, water pump, and timing belt are you running?

 

GSR timing belt, 22T vtec water pump, GSR oil pump

It's all the same stuff I used before, just time wont go straight this time.

 

might be too obvious as well, but you're not throwing any cel's?

 

Not throwing any CELs, wish I was.

 

have you checked to see if you are getting spark to all 4 cylinders? sorry to keep asking a bunch of questions I'm just trying to do a rundown of possibilities.

 

Spark plugs keep fouling. Are fouled spark plugs a product of timing being off, or visa versa?

 

i thought fouled spark plugs was due to too much fuel. maybe you are flooding your engine?

 

There is a liquid in there, and when I pulled spark plugs out they were wet, so yes it appears that way.

What can I check?

 

take the plugs out and let them air dry

 

still doesn't fix the fact that he is flooding his motor. you might want to get a fuel pressure gauge to see if your fuel pressure regulator isn't bad.

 

Here's the latest. Put the mechanical timing back to where it was. It starts and runs, put all brand new plugs in and with the timing light I can see that a couple start firing erratically after less than a minute. Ignition timing is still a little too advanced.

It starts crappy, low RPM, gets better as it runs, then suddenly dies after a few minutes.

Put a screwdriver to each injector/my ear and could hear them opening like they should so...