Hey there!

New to the forum and new to honda ! But just bought myself an honda.

91 Honda Accord with a 97 H22A VTEC JDM engine fitted from a prelude, if i got the motorcode right? 200hp 161lb-ft ?


My question is what sort of engine parts is awailable out there to squeeze som more juice out of the engine ? Besides exhaust filter and headers of course


thanx for any answers help to understand more of the vtec engines !

 

intake, headers, exhaust, pulleys cams, rods, pistons, weight reduction Forced Induction...

there are many things to do to this engine... but how deep your pockets are will determine which type of mods you can do.

 

yes i know, money is the key! but im not thinking on getting any turbo!

Just sold my turbo car and want a NA car But pistons and rods isnt affordable now.

But with headers, intake, new cams, how much gain are we looking at ?

Is the skunk2 intake manifold better then the stock JDM ?

 

With intake/conservative-header/exhaust/cams/modded stock intake manifold and tuning, I am making about 50whp more than stock...(~205 vs 155) and about 30wtq more than stock(~165 vs 135)(This info is all taken from the same exact Dyno as Dynos will vary by as much as 20% or more, even the same brand)
Too add, the upgraded valvetrain provided me with another 800-1000rpm of powerband.

What does all that really mean? The car is a blast to drive!

 

you will see gains with the skunk2 but i would suggest looking into the blacktrax manifolds.

 

Thats what I run; BTP Stage3 which removes the IABs and replaces it with 2 spacers. While I don't have the before/after dyno, it appears that I rec'd a nice 4000-4500rpm boost from it, and my powerband appears to carry better that the EuroR intake manifold with the same compression/cams as I run. IIRC it was about 300rpm further.

I am going to be on my NEW local dyno again next month, and I will print up a nice Dyno Comparo of Stock VS i/h/e VS My setup(My current setup makes 198whp on a Dyno Dynamics where we were seeing ~160-170 from tuned i/h/e H22s)

 

get a ssr(six sigma racing) header i ordered mine about a month ago still waiting on it but from what i heard there pretty bad ***

 

You can't go wrong with SSR, but there may some instances where you won't enjoy the REAL power unless you have some added compression and/or headowork done.

 

Stiff price on the SSR header!

but with all this mods, doesnt the ecu need mapping ?

 

yup car need to be dyno tuned

 

can the original ecu get flashed with new program or does it need new ecu ?

 

Just look into Neptune, Hondata, eCtune if you want to do this right.
If not, you can cheap out and just use a VAFC which is plenty for just some bolt ons.
I got to the point of running Stage1 cams with a VAFC just fine.

 

Im going this route as well. Except im doing the IAB mod and going with a hytech header. Your using Skunk 2 cams correct? Which ones are they? Pro 1s, 2s? or tuner 1s, 2s?

 

I run JUN cams on the racecar and S2 Tuner1s on my sleeping DD...
I don't have the IABs anymore.....removed IAB plate and replaced with 2 hollowed out plates.
I would love to throw a HyTech on right now, but Im glad I didn't......The HyTech that I would have bought wouldn't have been aggressive enough for my future plans.
At the time when I was building this setup, I couldn't justify the extra $500+++ for the HyTech over the Vibrant because the 10-12whp I would've gained could be had for a simple $5 nitrous jet......Now that I am pretty done with Nitrous, I want as much N/A power as I can get....
P.S. It may not come in the form of an H series

 

Nice. You have a nice set up for your dd. I wanted to do the same set up for a while but wasnt sure about it. But now I am definitely going to go through with it. So upgrading the valvetrain would benefit more power through out the power band?

 

you are using blacktrax stage 3 intake, skunk 2 tuner1s cams ?

Why not the pro 1's ? whats the differense ?

 

No, BTP3/70mm TB with JUN cams. O my DD I run the Tuner1s with a stock TB/IM.

The Pro1s either weren't, or had just came out when I bought the Tuner1s.
Pro1s=More aggressive, and IIRC you need an upgraded valvetrain. With the Tuner1s, you can use a stock VT as I have for ~5yrs/50k miles.

 

okey

 

wheres the redline original on the h22a jdm engine 200hp? aprox 7500 rpm? or ?

 

Redline is ~7600(if you're TACH talking) but PEAK power was at a little over 7000rpm.

 

I have the Type S but the add on game is about the same..If I could suggest based off my own experiences (Which was basically something to put out over 200@The wheel..the Typse S makes 220 over the 200 which translates to about 187 at the wheel (power less in the drivetrain.)

1st thing I did (Just to be exacty) was Mahle Gold Pro's ($600 shipped, brand fresh), 12:5:1 after having the crank polished, Plugged and Balanced ($400). They're FRM Friendly, and any bump in compression is a welcomed power adder you feel here, getting your crank done in this manner (Though it costs) only increases the most important trait u want in this motor...reliability, and in this case at higher then normal revs.I also called up Kaizenspeed and asked for their balance shaft removal kit..this doesn't so much as ADD power, but it lightens up the rotational mass, and bumps up oil pressure -$125 shipped Despite this I opted to build on a spare Type S head I had, and keep the one on this motor stock.

Stage III clutch
9.5lb Flywheel (Entire Kit, $400 shipped)

(Second Type S is getting some JUN's, Dual Valve Springs, Cam Gears, Rocker Arms and Titanium Valves..gonna take a while but patience and good saving will pay off and it's alll Turbo orientated. Projected Drop Date: Febuary 2011, Costs: $2700)

A Euro R Intake Manifold is a good choice but there are better, or so I hear, but for the price and numbers (I got one for $110, used with NO problems), a custom exaust manifold is a pricey choice (payed $770 for mine) if you could make due on a less expensive yet effective part such as a Skunk2 or Greddy model from what I've seen around here and on a few customer builds they are good choices. However, the true helper was the Hondata Chipped ECU, and a good tune ($400-tune, $500 for ECU)..

I made my 200whp goal, and with the head in N/A form and another tune more then 240@The wheel could be plausible..


But I'm gona end it all by saying....


BUILD FOR BOOST...Build it reliably for boost...and You'll spend LESS then i spent in N/A form NOW and go stratospheric with your numbers.

 

you cannot correctly build an h for boost cheaper than you can for n/a......it all roughly costs the same.

cheap, fast, reliable pick two....

if you want a fast, reliable car its not going to be cheap.

to build for boost reliably you need to sleeve the bottom end...period (IMO). you are lookin at 3k to start with pistons and rods. I know that I did not spend that much to get 200whp in my h22.

its all about goals. if you want 300whp boost will be the best way to go. you can make that on the stock block but dont expect it to be reliable. There are guys that are running that power and have been for years but again imo that motor will eventually go.

i like the allure of n/a which is why i have stuck with it. it all depends on what you want. if you really want boost then save your pennies and go that route. you will never be happy with n/a.

best advice is to sit down and think about what it is you want. set goals and go for them.

 

After quite some time with stock H22s.....
You can have a lot of fun with them...Its ALL about buying the right parts to work together, not wasting time with proven garbage, and finding the right tuner that will help you get the most out of your setup.
There are limits.....how much you push them is based on you, and your wallet.

Things I do(and just a handful of others have done) with my motor are things that most wouldn't imagine doing or believe to be possible.......I personally think they would shock the people that were directly involved with designing and building this motor. I <3 H22.

 

I beg to differ..you can do boost for cheaper if your goals are conservative. It's of HIGHER RISK, but boosting a stock h22, a JDM Especially (I dunno if All of them come Closed Deck with a Girdle but my Type S did) Is WAY possible, and the reliability stands pretty firm as I now have two companions with Boosted H's on Stock internals having their cars for a YEAR now with no problems whatosoever. OF COURSE we instinctively go the way of the Proper...

Sleeves
Low COmpression Pistons
Intercooler
Tune

But boosting on STOCK is a possibility, and a VERY cheap way to get 200 when comparable to N/A route.


Excluding my HEAD, and cost of Clutch and Flywheel I topped out at over $2500, INCLUDING the head would put that number well into 5K, and that's including Tuning and ECU.

If I were to say, taken a friends route..>SAME MOTOR, leave all the internals stock, and Boost conservative at 8lbs..

Turbo ($300-Used)
Intercooler ($300-used)
Piping (He did himself for a total of $150)
Turbo Intake Manifold ($210)
The rest of the supporting Turbo Hard ware BOV, Turbo timer, ect ($175)
TUNE ($375)
ECU ($350 - used)


Now it's NOT garunteed that he could get the SAME pricing, but with careful searching and smart buying its MORE then possible, the end result is WAY beneath what I spent in my N/A form WITH and WITHOUT my Headwork. 8lbs in a Stock JDM h22 holds, I get visual proof of it every day, and it's GARTUNTEED to put you OVER 200@The wheel


I think where I really broke good was that I did all the labor myself, and if he can't do the labor then yes, Boost might be a bit more costly. The ONLY thing keeping me from boosting in stock/sleeved form is the fact that I bumped up my compression, I would run a turbo at Low Boost for a year before taking the investment on Sleeves and low compression pistons.

 

You have time and time again proven your expertise on the subject.

you did not bump your compression enough to stay away from boost so try another excuse. there are guys running 12:1+ compression boosted.

all obdI h22's are closed deck and have crank girdles.

and FYI its not boost that breaks things its HP. 8 psi on a t25 is not the same amount of air flow on a t4...etc.

I never said that you can't boost a stock h22. there was some one on here making 530+ on a stock bottom end. the motor lasted something like 8 months before it dropped a valve.

200whp on boost seems like a waste to me. a bottle can get you that for 750 bucks compared to a couple grand for a properly built turbo set up.

before it was stated reliably...i don't think that stock internals the (ring lands in particular) are strong enough.