Hi, Everyone just wondering how much faster would your Stock R be if you had on Bolt-ons as in exhaust/ headers/ intake + race cam... anyone know?..

 

I will go ahead and be nice. With a high quality header/exhaust/intake, you should be around 190whp. Throw in some stage 2 cams and you will be around 200whp.

 

to translate that kind of power. he is staying it will still be slow.

 

I'm gonna say from my experience...

what you will pay for "quality bolt ons" is not worth it. The only reason you are better off not swapping to k is this... if you want to easily retain a/c and want to retain original r goodness possibly for resale later in life. If you are not concerned about these things go k swap and enjoy reliability, and power for the same price as bolt ons... tsx k24 with rbc, hytech, and k pro will haul ***.

Now having said that a B is not garbage either, but the gains you get on a b18cr from bolt ons are nominal at best and you would be far better off imo to do pistons, light headwork, bump cr up, mild cams, tune. The only bolts on you need is a jdm 4-1 or better header (300$) and a 3" sri with bpi velocity stack (200$)

It might cost you a few g's for engine build, but in the end, if you're looking at 1000$ for a toda header, 1000$ for mugen intake, hundreds more on useless "attempt to add power products" like a fuel rail, rc injectors (when lude ones will do), walboro pump, spark plug cover, msd, cams which you need more cr to make power with, blah bla blah you will end up much farther ahead off a solid internal build and you can always do bolt ons to that later on where you will see far more significant gains.

My 2 cents.

EDITED to say this... how much faster... a bpi stack, jdm 4-1, tune, exhaust, will make car feel faster but you would be lucky to shave even .5 off your 1/4mile time.

 

jdm exhaust manifold intake crower stage 2 cams and 110 octaine s100 tune .........i have seen people make 200 whp on a stock itr motor ...it realy all depends on the tuning and the money you want to spend on getting it done

 

but if you just want power go with turbo or super charging the car

 

What cam what header what intake ? info.....

skunk2 pros , custom made header 2.5inch 2.75 exhaust hondata jdm itr block 11.1cc S300 =210-220whp 130-145tq on hondata s300 tunning. All also depends on a tuner

do more search on the dyno thread that might be helpfull bunch of b series motors/dyno results

 

Stock R runs around 14.7

With cold air Intake, JDM 4-1 header and 2.5" exhaust, assuming your a decent driver you can hit 14.0-14.1

With cams and a tune you will hit high 13's in the quarter mile.

That should give your an idea of how much faster it will be. You wont see crazy horsepower gains, but for about $500-700 (without tune, just i/h/e) assuming you buy used parts you can have a car thats a little quicker.

 

Wish I had a V6 B18C so I could have headers....

 

headers and cam. It's a B18C LS1. From my experience with B18C(5)s, it seems like they do respond well to bolt ons. Seems like the cars do go faster even with seemingly small horsepower gains.

What I'm saying is that the effect of gaining 10 more WHP is a lot nicer than you'd expect.

 

i understand your reply. it just depends on what you expect out of the car"""as fast""".
the mugen intake is not $1,000 for one i will say ive had that intake for a long time and it was well worth it imho

the toda header yes it is alot of dough but i love it.!
so my 2 cents my car is faster just by years of driving it rather than bolt ons..
im sure some will agree completly its the driver not the bolt ons

 

Through the turns - no difference.

At a dragstrip - I don't care.

 

heheh well we swaped a stock type r b18c motor just with a cold air intake and i believe the guy had hondata s200 if i am not wrong in a COUPE CIVIC 1993 and he ran 14.0 flat in 1/4 ..no investments hondata 200$ intake 100 ebay heheh.

But then again you can make all that power if your suspension and tires is not a good combo for your power and you spinning out and not catching traction is another thing to take in consideration. i seen 240whp b series motors running mid 13's cuz of the suspension and tire issues.

 

also you dont see too many people building b series 250whp + cuz it costs a lot of money when you can do k24/k20 and make that with stock internals.

 

What about your ITR are you not happy with?

 

Man, if you add the race cam, I predict you are gong to se this out of your windshield.


Warp speed y0!

 

Lol, wise-***.^

 

How about how much faster is PY that CW? Or FBP? Which color is the fastest?

Just kidding, I think it varies on how healthy the motor is and the quality of the parts.

 

^BTW, CW is the fastest . . . hands down.

 

get RIGHT is not RIGHT! I think I saw that once when I hit VTEC yO!

 

Nope! Speed is totally relevant to the FURBY on the dashboard Mike!

As for the OP, that is something I always wanted to know also.

 

A Furby will never sit on the dash of any ITR that is not CW! What a Furby noob

 

turbos are the way to go drag racing. on the road course, it's hard to say since we usually build a car to class rules. this is why so many mostly stock itr's are doing autocross. mods where allowed but the car stock is so good it's a great platform to get going on. this and the c5 zo6 are my two favorite sub 20k cars with great track potential stock.

 

I gotta a white Furby still in the og box.

If you are into drag racing such as myself, the turbo car is way too addictive. Ive been told I should autocross my my R and use it for it's intended purpose and maybe someday, I will.
Personally I think the R in stock-ish form would probably be one of the best ways to use the car on a road course.

 

Wait... what? Since when were (clean title/working) C5 Z06s' going for under 20k?

TOO LATE! Pics to come...