Manley Pistons in Oem C.Rods
Hi, im trying to contact manley to ask them for a doubt about 603000-4 piston kit but i havent any answer from them. Could you help me? I need to know if the piston kit 603000-4 81mm from manley can be installed in the oem B18C1 C.Rods. If you can solve my doubt you will help me so much.
Thank You!.
Thank You!.
The piston kit comes with their fit wrist pins.. could i use stock?¿ i think that this could be a bad idea. no?
Stock wrist pins are locked with hot in the piston... the manley wrist pins are unlocked and only two clips maintain the wrist pins in their place. (sorry for my english.. i try to explain it as well as i can). I fear that could be noisy or have a problem with the stock c.rod.
Could anybody clear my doubts? thank you.
Stock wrist pins are locked with hot in the piston... the manley wrist pins are unlocked and only two clips maintain the wrist pins in their place. (sorry for my english.. i try to explain it as well as i can). I fear that could be noisy or have a problem with the stock c.rod.
Could anybody clear my doubts? thank you.
The piston kit comes with their fit wrist pins.. could i use stock?¿ i think that this could be a bad idea. no?
Stock wrist pins are locked with hot in the piston... the manley wrist pins are unlocked and only two clips maintain the wrist pins in their place. (sorry for my english.. i try to explain it as well as i can). I fear that could be noisy or have a problem with the stock c.rod.
Could anybody clear my doubts? thank you.
Stock wrist pins are locked with hot in the piston... the manley wrist pins are unlocked and only two clips maintain the wrist pins in their place. (sorry for my english.. i try to explain it as well as i can). I fear that could be noisy or have a problem with the stock c.rod.
Could anybody clear my doubts? thank you.
I dont want to change the c.rods to avoid change the rod bearings too because mines are in perfect condition and adapted to the crankshaft, and i dont want to spend so much money. But i dont want to have then a problem with this, and i prefer to have it clear. Is it better to get a eagle c.rods? I dont want to modify stock rods...
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I have the block and the header modified, but im looking to get over 11 to 11.5 in compression. Im doing an engine with B18C1 block (B18C4 here in spain) and B16A2 header, both are reviewed and modified and are ready to mount, but i need to have this doubt clear to begin with the engine.
I have another civic with a d16z6 turbo and think that i had a problem with vitaras and eagles. The engine runs very well, but it have a noise when its cold and below 3000rpm, and i think that could be for the pistons circlips and free floating pins, no slap, but im not sure what is, and i dont want to have a problem in this engine, because im doing to race in circuits and go hardly.
I have another civic with a d16z6 turbo and think that i had a problem with vitaras and eagles. The engine runs very well, but it have a noise when its cold and below 3000rpm, and i think that could be for the pistons circlips and free floating pins, no slap, but im not sure what is, and i dont want to have a problem in this engine, because im doing to race in circuits and go hardly.
I have the block and the header modified, but im looking to get over 11 to 11.5 in compression. Im doing an engine with B18C1 block (B18C4 here in spain) and B16A2 header, both are reviewed and modified and are ready to mount, but i need to have this doubt clear to begin with the engine.
I have another civic with a d16z6 turbo and think that i had a problem with vitaras and eagles. The engine runs very well, but it have a noise when its cold and below 3000rpm, and i think that could be for the pistons circlips and free floating pins, no slap, but im not sure what is, and i dont want to have a problem in this engine, because im doing to race in circuits and go hardly.
I have another civic with a d16z6 turbo and think that i had a problem with vitaras and eagles. The engine runs very well, but it have a noise when its cold and below 3000rpm, and i think that could be for the pistons circlips and free floating pins, no slap, but im not sure what is, and i dont want to have a problem in this engine, because im doing to race in circuits and go hardly.
as for the vitara's they all sound like that. in the f.i section there is a thread abou them,and even guys who use the press fit pins still have that diesel sound. i think they just come with a loose p2w clearance.
So, i have to install the c.rods as stock pistons, with heat, no? the wrist pins will be blocked in the piston, no floating and holded with circlips..., no?
In the vitaras, i applied a teflon layer before install it, and over 4000kms the engine make no sound. After 4000kms began to do this sound, but only below 3000rpms. Now im doing between 260 to 300hp and car run fine, but i was a little worry with this sound. im using silikonen 10W50, and works great or Mobil1 5W50 and a abro oil treatment.
Thank you for answer.
In the vitaras, i applied a teflon layer before install it, and over 4000kms the engine make no sound. After 4000kms began to do this sound, but only below 3000rpms. Now im doing between 260 to 300hp and car run fine, but i was a little worry with this sound. im using silikonen 10W50, and works great or Mobil1 5W50 and a abro oil treatment.
Thank you for answer.
there are some local guys who run crazy *** P2W clearences with vitaras because they're too cheap to bore .020 over. Some dude I know had .070 P2W in his d16 because the cylinders were so worn.
I see stupid piston to wall all the time and it hurts power and wears hard on your pistons and cylinders. Do it right guys.
Why not just save up $300 and get some H-beams and be done with it? You will regret doing half *** stuff sooner than you think.
Why not just save up $300 and get some H-beams and be done with it? You will regret doing half *** stuff sooner than you think.
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