Now im planning on doing a mini swap. I have a z6 head valve job already done , im running a a6 on my hatch but i also have another a6 long block freshly rebuilt. the thing is, is that people say you need certain things about the set-ups like using a rpm switch or vtec controller, but i use my hatch as a dd and im doing this build up slow buying parts as they come and go and i want it to last. So my Question is what is a proper set-up like z6 mani, fuel rail, z6 injectors, ecu, etc just let me know what i need exatcly to make it proper and with no ghetto rigged **** i know its money wasting but im not looking really for power just really want to feel like 65mph on the freeway feels like 65mph not 45 you know. im planning on also using z6 gasket timing belt and even a obd-0 to obd-1 conversion and arp head studs not bolts but studs. so a lil help on the proper setup all other write ups taking bout ghetto rig ****.

 

a6 block
z6 head
p28 ecu
obd0-obd1 jumper harness
2 wire 02 sensor

 

i'm also doing a mini-me so i'll throw ya some of what i've learned
i hear the y8 gasket bumps the compression up a bit, so you can use that instead of the z6 gasket. z6 timing belt is correct. Apparently any d-series intake will do, but the y8 has the best flow rate,(i'm using the z6, found it cheap!) Whatever route you go with the manifold you also wanna get the fuel rail, and injectors to go with it(obd1). You can use the p28 ecu or another one I don't remember. Also the y8 spark plugs seem to help too so you can pick them up instead of the z6 ones. Remember to get some z6 spark plug wires and new gaskets for manifolds!

http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/m...oreminime.html
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/z6swap/z6swap.html
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/faq-d15-obd1-sohc-vtec-mini-me-massive-write-up-56k-no-way-635580/

these helped me a lot. But i'm doing the mini-me on a d15b7 so its slightly different i suppose. Any other honda guys correct me if I'm wrong anywhere

 

ok 1st off SEARCH. there is tons of info on this. but since im posting ill hel out a bit

if your doing a mini me do it right dont chea out with some crap rpm controller or using a stand alone vtec controller go get a p28 ecu convert to obd1. like said do it right

as for the studs arp only makes bolt's for this setup wheter you want z6 or a6 bolts there bassicl same lenght thread etc. if your wanting studs good luck finding those casue they dont exist as far as i know.( i went as far as calling arp and talking to them about this and its bolts only. but considring its arp your not loosing anything they work amazing)

to clear up a few things from the 2 other posters you want a 4 wire o2 sensor not a 2 wire. i 1st used a 2wire and got odd a/f readings for te oddest of reasons. switched to the wire wire and it fixed that ordeal. let alone the 4 wire is way more reliable and in my opinion accurate then a 2wire.

as well my opinion the z6 head flows beter when "machined" properly, let alone stock but that my opinion from my experience.

2ndly those links posted by "jrz88dx" are farily good resources or knowledge but dont stop there do your resaerch and learn how to DO IT RIGHT no gheto rigs they only last a while from wha ti have seen some few dozen times.

so in a nut shell:
a6 block
z6 head(intake, header, pulley)
z6 timing belt
z6 gasket(unless other pistons are used depending on your prefrence)
4 wire o2 sensor
p28 ecu
obd1 dizzy
most important common sence and an ability to use google or other search engines and of course when you get wicked confused ask specific questions so we can help you

to get you started here are sme links for good read and some good knowledge gain for your mini me :D

http://crxresource.org/modules.php?n...article&sid=40
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/z6swap/z6swap.html
http://phearable.net/
http://www.angelfire.com/dc2/cyber13/minimeinfo.html

depending on if you making harness or buying: if your buying check out rywire or phearable as a starting point if your building ur own

http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-ed-ef-da...adapter-73435/

phearable has the ecu pin outs

hopefully this will help you get started

 

thx but as you can see theres so many different setups i just really wanted the specified setup for a z6/a6

 

I have to agree with this right here and emphasize that it is BEST to run a VTEC ecu if you're not getting a chip with appropriate fuel maps. As far as your specific setup A6/Z6 all of those write ups will give you the fundamentals to install things appropriately. Afterall, you're just removing and replacing a head (it's not that complicated). Don't forget to remove the oil control jet in your A6 block before bolting down the Z6 head. I don't know if you know it already but the VTEC motors have the oil control jet located in the head already. After all the mechanical aspects are taken care of, you have to address the electrical side which is basically just adding VTEC wires. Easiest solution is a jumper harness.



Coincidently, I'm putting together the complete OPPOSITE right now LOL

 

yep like 24 ten and i said all those links provide the main fundamentals for setting up and buidling ur a6/z6 mini me. as all those links i used. just read and do ur research as of right now i dont believe an actul a6/z6 tstep by step with piks and being thorough how to write up has been done, at least i cant find one. oncejim done my mini me high comp build here i was considering posting up on crx community with an a6/z6 how to as well ill post up here.

but like said the info is out there just take ur time get the parts you need do it right and like said ask question and if so feel free to pm me and im sure other members feel he same if you have any questions Good luck man

 

sounds good yeah im taking this project slow but ill keep a log for it and probably do the write up with the build with pics, also im curious what is better gasket y8 or z6 and also whats the deal with sd with jdm swaps apparently theres word saying if cops catch you with a swapped motor in sd they crush and verification?

 

the y8 and z6 headgaskets ar preety much identical other then the y8 gasket is thinner then the z6. Thus resulting in your z6 head sitting ever so slightly closer to th block and raising your compression.( the y8 is a dual layer when compared to a tripple layer z6 HG) that is more of a choice of what you wanna do. to give you a really good idea use this calculator

http://www.zealautowerks.com/dseries.html

a6 HG= 9.71:1

z6 HG:= 9.95:1

y8 HG:10.23:1

based on wat i know of your setup so far( stock internal beside the head(w/stock head internals)

and remeber high compression mean higher octane levels(in a nut shell)

as for what the deal is in San diego i suggest you make a call or maybe some one else can asnwer that question, as i dont live there so i have no clue.